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Whirlpool fridge ET20RMXTW00 - Relay/Overload help  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Fri Aug 7th, 2009 10:21 pm
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jsonta
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I am replacing the relay/overload on my Whirlpool refrigerator (ET20RMXTW00) and have a question about wiring.  The replacement is 4387535, which includes a similar relay, a different overload, and a red wire.

The original set up is as follows: 

White wire from fridge is connected to the top prong directly.

Relay fits on the bottom two prongs.  The blue wire from compressor is connected to the left terminal of the relay.  Right terminal of relay - red wire from compressor combined with red wire from the overload.

The overload is a disc with two red wires.  One red wire from the overload is connected to the right terminal of the relay (described above).  The other comes from the fridge.

The replacement (4387535):

White overload which appears to slide onto the top prong of the compressor.  It looks like I can attach the red wire that came with the replacement onto the terminal of the overload.  And then connect the end of the white wire from the fridge to the other end of this red wire.

The relay looks the same.  Attach the combined red wires to the right terminal, and the blue wire to the left side.

The problem:  What do I do with the original overload?  Do I cut the red wires coming to it, discard the overload and splice them together?  Or do I leave the old relay the way it is?  Remember, one of the red wires is combined with the red wire from the compressor at the terminal of the relay.

Really cofusing me!  I would appreciate any help anyone can provide.  Thanks.

Jack

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 Posted: Sat Aug 8th, 2009 04:38 am
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kdog
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Any chance you can post a picture?



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 Posted: Sat Aug 8th, 2009 05:06 am
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kdog
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The part # that I come up with for replacement is 819098

Repair Clinic part #726514


You may have an incorrect replacement part

Attachment: overload.jpg (Downloaded 29 times)

Last edited on Sat Aug 8th, 2009 05:48 am by kdog



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 Posted: Sat Aug 8th, 2009 04:26 pm
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jsonta
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Thanks for the reply.  I've attached a picture of the original setup.  The overload is on the left (disc) and the relay is on the right (fits on two prongs).

Many appliance parts websites have 4387535 as the correct replacement.  As I mentioned the relay is exactly the same, but the overload is a bit confusing.

I've also seen the part you mention (819098) on some sites.

I don't see how 819098 would be installed.  How does it attach to the three prongs coming out of the compressor?  Does it come with instructions?

Again, any help would be appreciated.  Thanks.

Attachment: Relay-Overload.jpg (Downloaded 25 times)

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 Posted: Sat Aug 8th, 2009 05:07 pm
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kdog
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OK so you also have a run capacitor in the mix, this makes things a little more interesting, can you also post a pic of the relay/overload you are attempting to install?
The 819098 is a PTC relay, and is actually pretty simple to install, but if you are convinced you have an adequate replacement, post it and we'll see if we can help



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 Posted: Sat Aug 8th, 2009 05:20 pm
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kdog
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BTW, why are you replacing the relay? Compressor won't start? should measure out the windings to determine if compressor is electrically sound



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 Posted: Sat Aug 8th, 2009 05:24 pm
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jsonta
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I'm certainly not against returning the part and buying the one you suggest, if you're confident it will work.  I've attached a picture of the 4387535.  The brown part (relay) is exactly the same.  The white part (overload) attaches to the top prong (where the current white wire is) and the supplied red wire can attach to the overload with the other end attaching to the current white wire.  Don't know what I would do with the current overload.  Thanks.

Attachment: 4387535_LRG.jpg (Downloaded 24 times)

Last edited on Sat Aug 8th, 2009 05:25 pm by jsonta

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 Posted: Sat Aug 8th, 2009 05:34 pm
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kdog
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You would not use the existing overload, as that's what the white thing is- white wire from fridge would connect to this, red wire from fridge would connect to the right side of the relay(black part), then with the 2 wires from the capacitor(blue and red), connect the red to the right side along with the fridge wire, and connect the blue wire to the left side of the relay. Please note that if your compressor is not starting, installing a new relay does not guarantee that it will. The compressor may have failed either electrically, or mechanically (seized) in which case would need to be replaced. Best bet is to take an ohmeter to the compressor pins to verify motor windings prior to installing relay

Last edited on Sat Aug 8th, 2009 05:44 pm by kdog



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 Posted: Sat Aug 8th, 2009 07:15 pm
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jsonta
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So I would cut the wires from the existing overload and splice them together, since one end is coming from the fridge and the other end is connected to the right side of the relay?

The various parts stores I talked to suggested this is the most common failure.   I understand that the compressor may have failed, but this is a relatively inexpensive fix, if it works.   Thanks for your help.

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 Posted: Sat Aug 8th, 2009 07:17 pm
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kdog
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Yes

Have you verified the compressor windings to be electrically sound?

Last edited on Sat Aug 8th, 2009 07:20 pm by kdog



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 Posted: Sun Aug 9th, 2009 09:32 pm
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jsonta
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So I installed the new relay and overload, plugged in the fridge, turned it on, and the circuit breaker tripped.  Any ideas what would cause this?  Thanks for your help.

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 Posted: Sun Aug 9th, 2009 10:12 pm
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RegUS_PatOff
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mis-wired .. or a bad (shorted) Compressor

can you do some resistance tests ?



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 Posted: Sun Aug 9th, 2009 11:00 pm
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jsonta
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Compressor resistances:  Top pin / left pin = 1.1 ohms;  top pin / right pin = 1.1 ohms;  left pin / right pin = 0.6 ohms.  Is this what you were asking?

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 Posted: Sun Aug 9th, 2009 11:10 pm
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RegUS_PatOff
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using a digital meter ?

Common to Start =  1.5 to 6

Common to Run =  6 to 22

White is Common

with Relay removed

ET20RMXTW00 Wiring Diagram


Last edited on Sun Aug 9th, 2009 11:12 pm by RegUS_PatOff



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 Posted: Sun Aug 9th, 2009 11:13 pm
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kdog
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kdog wrote: Yes

Have you verified the compressor windings to be electrically sound?

Your compressor has a turn to turn short and is possibly grounded (pins to ground) could have saved the price of the relay kit by measuring that first. Fridge is now a boat anchor

Last edited on Sun Aug 9th, 2009 11:18 pm by kdog



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