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Kenmore/Whirlpool ref model 106.54692300 new compressor doesnt turn off

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Posted: Mon Jul 20th, 2009 12:54 am

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equalizer
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5.5 yr old fridge Kenmore 106.54692300 (Whirlpool). Coils were dusty, but compressor unit failed hard in one day, no warm temp, etc.

Shouldn't have but I spent too much to have someone come replace compressor here in California. Original compressor is Embraco EGZ 90HLP, the new compressor is Embraco FF 10HBX. The spec sheet I have on the FF 10HBX shows that it has approximate 1/5 HP. Can't tell what the difference is from the Embraco site: http://www.embraco.com/ingles/produtos/02003.pdf

It's been three days and I have heard compressor turn off only a couple times yesterday. The temp is the ref section varies from 35-39 degrees. The Ice maker has just about finished filling the whole tray, but refrig is not cycling off. [Should the fridge stay on constantly to fill the ice tray?] If the thermostat was bad, then wouldn't the refrig section go down to 30 deg? BTW, my control board for turning ref of/on and changing freezer, ref temps went out last year. Controls levels are stuck at 4 for freezer (midrange) and stuck at 5 (one level above midrange) for the refrig.

On sears parts direct, the compressor listed is a comparable substitute. So, could the refrigerant level be low/high or the new compressor be a smaller size than original, 1/5 vs 1/4 HP? It is only 81 degrees Far in the house.

The one repair person who I talked to and trusted over phone does not replace compressors. The firm I hired sent tech with bare skills.

Appreciate any help.

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Posted: Mon Jul 20th, 2009 01:03 am

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kdog
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Making ice is certainly a larger load for the compressor, but if in fact it's only cycling 3 times for sure- (some units will cycle evaporator fan only at times). But 35-39 sounds ok for f/f. Can you access the evaporator and check for frost pattern?

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Posted: Mon Jul 20th, 2009 01:10 am

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RegUS_PatOff
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106.54692300 Tech Sheets

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Posted: Mon Jul 20th, 2009 01:14 am

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equalizer
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Sorry, I dont know where the evaporator section is located. Somewhere in the freezer section, inside back panel? Must be a picture somewhere for Kenmore/Whirlpool side by side? If the defrost component was not working, wouldnt the refrig section get colder than 35 deg?

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Posted: Mon Jul 20th, 2009 01:20 am

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kdog
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Maybe, but since you mentiond your controller is nailed at mid-setting, that's what you'll be havin' - it's possible the fridge was undercharged w/refrigerant, but if the charge is in question, it would more likely be a leak and that WILL be evident if true. Does the fan in the freezer(evaporator) area operate? what is the freezer temp like?

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Posted: Mon Jul 20th, 2009 01:56 am

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equalizer
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Thanks for the tech sheet. The handy diagnostics sections wont work for me because my control board went bad last year. Damn, I'm in so deep, feel like I should have just junked the nice fridge.

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Posted: Mon Jul 20th, 2009 02:07 am

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equalizer
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kdog wrote: Maybe, but since you mentiond your controller is nailed at mid-setting, that's what you'll be havin' - it's possible the fridge was undercharged w/refrigerant, but if the charge is in question, it would more likely be a leak and that WILL be evident if true. Does the fan in the freezer(evaporator) area operate? what is the freezer temp like?

I'll move the thermostat to freezer section. The refriger section is down to 34 degrees now, the ice bucket is full.

If it was under charged, how would it be evident?

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Posted: Mon Jul 20th, 2009 02:55 am

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kdog
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Only by observing the frost pattern, but if it has filled the ice bucket it can't be doing too bad- You'll know if it's a leak caus it'll stop cooling at all. Stop ice production and wait another day or so and see how it acts

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Posted: Mon Jul 20th, 2009 11:37 pm

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equalizer
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freezer temp was 6 degrees this morning, was -6 this afternoon and 0 right now. ref still running full time.
I'll wait another day. So could be thermostat?

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Posted: Tue Jul 21st, 2009 12:20 am

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kdog
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Temperatures seem o.k. - will have to remove the freezer cover and check frosting pattern on evaporator, maybe you'll want to call up the fella that replaced the compressor and see what he thinks

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Posted: Tue Jul 21st, 2009 03:33 am

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equalizer
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kdog wrote: Temperatures seem o.k. - will have to remove the freezer cover and check frosting pattern on evaporator, maybe you'll want to call up the fella that replaced the compressor and see what he thinks

I talked to him and he asked me to check compressor lines if there were any that were frosted which he said would mean too much refrigerant. No, the lines are all clear.

Is the thermostat controlling freezer section? If so, maybe thermostat is faulty, causing continuous operation?

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Posted: Tue Jul 21st, 2009 03:38 am

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kdog
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If it were the thermostat, it would freeze everything - sounds like it just can't achieve temp. severe overcharge will frost line to compressor, but conversely, undercharge will mean frost not making it through the coils.

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Posted: Tue Jul 21st, 2009 03:51 am

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equalizer wrote: ... Is the thermostat controlling freezer section? If so, maybe thermostat is faulty, causing continuous operation?

yes, Compressor is Controlled by Freezer temperature...
but sensed by Thermistor ...

may be similar Whirlpool KA Side x Side Electronic Control

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Posted: Tue Jul 21st, 2009 04:43 am

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equalizer
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RegUS_PatOff wrote: equalizer wrote: ... Is the thermostat controlling freezer section? If so, maybe thermostat is faulty, causing continuous operation?

yes, Compressor is Controlled by Freezer temperature...
but sensed by Thermistor ...

may be similar Whirlpool KA Side x Side Electronic Control

Thanks for the helpful guide. I assume my fridge must have similar failure defaults if freezer thermistor is bad.

Since my control pad is out, I cant perform the self test. Does the thermsitor get read by the control panel circuitry? [I cant recognize the control panel in your first link, is it the board the thermistors are hooked up to?]

If so, maybe fault in panel is preventing shutoff of compressor? Damn, another $200 in parts to replace just control board!

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Posted: Tue Jul 21st, 2009 05:10 am

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kdog
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Forget the control! If the unit was just stuck on run, it would freeze the whole box, the fact that it is running and running and never achieving target temperature suggests there is a problem with cooling capacity (aka undercharge, leak, inadequate compressor etc). The next step is to LOOK at the frost pattern on the coils.

You have already determined that the freezer can and does get down to -6 degrees, it just takes all day to do it.

Last edited on Tue Jul 21st, 2009 05:11 am by kdog

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Posted: Tue Jul 21st, 2009 05:24 am

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equalizer
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kdog wrote: Forget the control! If the unit was just stuck on run, it would freeze the whole box, the fact that it is running and running and never achieving target temperature suggests there is a problem with cooling capacity (aka undercharge, leak, inadequate compressor etc). The next step is to LOOK at the frost pattern on the coils.

You have already determined that the freezer can and does get down to -6 degrees, it just takes all day to do it.

My head cold is really getting to me. You make great sense! I was just wondering why it didn't turn off at -6, but it may have. More than I wanted to know about ref repair.

I get stuck on my job investigating avionics circuit cards that test good by themselves, but fail when placed in computers, displays, etc. One board took me over a year working off/on to fix! And that was more luck than anything, I attributed to speed differences between the testers.

Just want a cold drink with ice.

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Posted: Wed Jul 29th, 2009 11:57 pm

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equalizer
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kdog wrote: Forget the control! If the unit was just stuck on run, it would freeze the whole box, the fact that it is running and running and never achieving target temperature suggests there is a problem with cooling capacity (aka undercharge, leak, inadequate compressor etc). The next step is to LOOK at the frost pattern on the coils.

You have already determined that the freezer can and does get down to -6 degrees, it just takes all day to do it.

Tech came over and saw -10 in freezer, checked compressor lines and said to replace control board. I replaced the control unit and same issues like you said! I put freezer at mid-range and compressor was running 90+% of time. In the morning it was -4, I switched to lowest setting and compressor immediately shut down. Problem is that lowest setting on this fridge is 0 and freezer is staying at 2-4 degrees, so compressor is on 90% of time again. It is probably a simple undercharge, I think not very experienced tech and cheap equipment.

I called tech and he said to call owner to have him take a look.

If it refrigerant is low, can it be simply added or does it have to be vacuumed all out first?

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Posted: Thu Jul 30th, 2009 12:01 am

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denrayr
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kdog mentioned several times to remove the evap cover in the freezer and check the frost pattern.

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Posted: Thu Jul 30th, 2009 12:05 am

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denrayr
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modern refrigerators are designed to run more of the time reducing power consuming start ups. are you sure it runs more than before? often times after a repair i find that the owner of the appliance suddenly pays attention to everything the appliance does and will call in for phantom problems, im not saying this is the case, its just something to think about.

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Posted: Thu Jul 30th, 2009 12:56 am

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equalizer
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denrayr wrote: kdog mentioned several times to remove the evap cover in the freezer and check the frost pattern.
When tech came I wasn't home. Anyway, I just got cover off and there is frost on bottom 2 rows, or bottom 10% and one line on top. I'll post pictures in a minute.

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