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Whirlpool ED19MT1LWR0 Coil freezing  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Fri Jul 17th, 2009 01:18 am
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johnjohn
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I have an old whirlpool  ED19MT1LWR0. I noticed it was not cooling so well and decided to empty it out and found the back lower wall of the freezer full of ice. I turned the unit off let it thaw and cleaned the coils underneath and plugged it back it. I dont have a thermometer to test it but i put water in the freezer and it is freezing although the coils seem to be freezing back over. Im assuming its part of the defrost system but im just wondering where to start

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 Posted: Fri Jul 17th, 2009 02:33 am
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ED19MT1LWR0 Tech Sheets



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 Posted: Fri Jul 17th, 2009 03:27 am
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You've had a defrost system failure-- sounds worse than it is. It'll either be the defrost thermostat (common), defrost timer (also common), or defrost heater (less common on this model). Ohm out the defrost thermostat at freezer temp and the defrost heater. You're looking for near zero ohms on the defrost therm and low ohms on the defrost heater. If either is open, it's bad. OTOH, if both are good, replace the defrost timer.



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 Posted: Fri Jul 17th, 2009 04:50 pm
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johnjohn
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sorry for the simple question but is the thermostat located in the freezer section by the light?

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 Posted: Fri Jul 17th, 2009 05:01 pm
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usually on the top rung of the Evaporator Coils ...

I'll search for a Service Manual

click on picture



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 Posted: Mon Jul 20th, 2009 07:16 pm
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johnjohn
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I tested both the thermostat and the heater. Both were tested with the leads unhooked and after the door had been open and the unit had been off for about twenty minutes....so it may have warmed up a bit
The heater read 26 ohms
the thermostat read 5 ohms
Do i need to redo it when the unit is colder and do i have to unhook the leads b4 testing?

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 Posted: Mon Jul 20th, 2009 07:41 pm
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johnjohn wrote: ... Do i need to redo it when the unit is colder and do i have to unhook the leads b4 testing?
check the Defrost Bi-Metal Thermostat again .. should read 0 OHMS

should be using a digital OHM meter.

You may have a bad Defrost Timer (inside IceMaker  :headscratch:  )

ED19MT1LWR0 Wiring Diagram

top left of page (1) of wiring diagram points to Defrost Timer .. ?

page (2) of wiring diagram mentions Defrost Timer & Switch is inside IceMaker...



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 Posted: Mon Jul 20th, 2009 10:29 pm
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johnjohn
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here is a picture off what is behind the panel inside the freezer...right behind where the ice maker was





I assume that the thermostat is located on the top right of the coil.....it has a blue and white wire coming off of it..........and i assume the heater is the black wire that runs thru the coil
they are what i tested

Last edited on Mon Jul 20th, 2009 10:31 pm by johnjohn

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 Posted: Mon Jul 20th, 2009 10:46 pm
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johnjohn wrote:
and i assume the heater is the black wire that runs thru the coil
they are what i tested


Good assumption! You are correctum. Five ohms is probably close enough to zero to count as having good continuity. I' think you're looking at a bad defrost timer which, in this model, is part of the icemaker.



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 Posted: Mon Jul 20th, 2009 10:49 pm
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is it an issue that i tested the components when they were not at normal freezer box temp?

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 Posted: Mon Jul 20th, 2009 10:54 pm
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johnjohn wrote: ... right behind where the ice maker was ...you still have the IceMaker ?

click on picture Microswitch, standard size, three wire

 

Defrost Timer Switch may be # 32 in this diagram



 

Last edited on Mon Jul 20th, 2009 10:56 pm by RegUS_PatOff



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 Posted: Tue Jul 21st, 2009 12:22 am
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if you dont mind ditching the ice maker type in sa1005 on repairclinic. this part number is for a unit that eliminates the ice maker and replaces it with a standard defrost timer.



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 Posted: Tue Jul 21st, 2009 04:07 am
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johnjohn
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yes i still have the ice maker but have never used it........I looked at sa1005 and was going to ask about it but you beat me to it.....About that microswitch....is that what goes bad in the timer?
Also im guessing that there in no need to retest the thermostat at operating temp

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 Posted: Tue Jul 21st, 2009 06:02 am
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if you dont use the ice maker you will be money and time ahead to replace the unit with the sa1005. ive never actually attempted to rebuild one of those ice makers but a good friend who gave me some of my training instructed me that if i ever ran into one, to run away, he had tried to rebuild them but they always came back to haunt him.



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 Posted: Wed Jul 29th, 2009 04:40 pm
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johnjohn
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I installed the supco part just now and put it back together....im waiting to see if it ice up....in the mean time it looks like the fridge door gasket has expanded due to the door not being closed for some time and now the door wont stay closed...i have it wedged with a 2x4..i see that a new gasket is $70...any quick fixes?

Last edited on Wed Jul 29th, 2009 04:40 pm by johnjohn

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 Posted: Wed Jul 29th, 2009 05:06 pm
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hair-dryer ?  maybe ?



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 Posted: Wed Jul 29th, 2009 05:06 pm
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heat it up with a hair dryer



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 Posted: Wed Jul 29th, 2009 06:35 pm
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johnjohn
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now the fridge doesnt seem to be getting cool even with the door wedged shut....by what means does the fridge get cold? does cold air come in from the top and return from the bottom? the fan is blowing

Last edited on Wed Jul 29th, 2009 06:38 pm by johnjohn

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 Posted: Wed Jul 29th, 2009 06:57 pm
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Is the Compressor running ?

Is the Condenser Fan running ?

Is the Evaporator Fan running ?

all (3) should run at the same time until the Cold Control in the Fridge is satisfied.
(unless it's in a Defrost Cycle)
 



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 Posted: Wed Jul 29th, 2009 07:13 pm
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johnjohn
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Both fans are running and the compressor is very warm to the touch and running
the fridge has been on for about 5 hours and is about 50degrees

The evap coils are cold and look frosty

the evap cover seals dont look like they are sealing much maybe they need to be sealed better in order to pull air from the fridge

Also could the temp control thermostat in the fridge be the culprit?

Last edited on Wed Jul 29th, 2009 09:39 pm by johnjohn

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