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- > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Kitchen Appliance Repair Forum > GE Monogram Refrigerator ZFSB25DTBSS frost, warm and fan probs

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GE Monogram Refrigerator ZFSB25DTBSS frost, warm and fan probs  Rating:  Rating
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 Posted: Sun Jul 12th, 2009 04:45 pm
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cncltd1973
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I've read a lot of posts, and got some pointers from them. But some may not apply to my model #, so here are the issues that are plagueing me.

Yesterday, the freezer was 0 and the fridge was 60. I removed the freezer evaporator panel, and de-iced with a blowdryer (I didn't unplug unit while blowing). The bottom half were pretty icy. Then I unplugged and let sit for 4 hours, replugged and went to bed.

This morn, the freezer was 30 and fridge 60. The freezer evaporator coils are icing on the bottom half. The evap fan runs when I close the door. The fridge fan hasn't run at all for a couple days. So I took off the cover to the fridge side evaporator, and it looks frosty, even and healthy, and I noticed a sensor clipped on the back bottom. I think the damper unit below is to custom cool the veggie drawers, so I haven't paid too much attention to it, other than noticing it doesn't respond to the fridge door opening or closing.

Turbo cool isn't working either.

I'm mechanically inclined, but am having to crash learn this cooling stuff, as I regarded it akin to voodoo until recently. Please advise!

Ps. just checked the wiring harness for the fridge side evaporator fan - it's giving 13v when the door is closed, but the fan isn't on, so I'll replace that. Also checked the heater on the freezer side, and it's good. After 7 hours of running, the temps are 14 and 54. I guess I'll also replace the thermo def and sensor temp ff while the cover is off. Anything else?

Last edited on Sun Jul 12th, 2009 11:42 pm by cncltd1973

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 Posted: Mon Jul 13th, 2009 04:10 am
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himeros

 

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The coils in the freezer section should have a nice even coat of ice/frost over the complete coils from top to bottom.   If the coil is not completely iced up, you have a problem that won't be solved by replacing the parts you mentioned.

Check for the fan in the freezer section to be working when you depress the door switch.  No need to shotgun that unit, give us more information to work with.

Himeros

Last edited on Mon Jul 13th, 2009 04:13 am by himeros

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 Posted: Mon Jul 13th, 2009 04:41 am
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cncltd1973
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Ok, all the freezer coils except the top 2 have a nice, even frost. The freezer fan switches on when the door closes. 14 hours later, the temps are 9 and 50. I also checked the compressor and fan, and cleaned the condensor.

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 Posted: Mon Jul 13th, 2009 06:37 am
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denrayr
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if memory serves the unit needs to cool the fridge side first then it will concentrate on the freezer. the reason the freezer evap is only partially frosted is the freezer evap is in series with the refrigerator evap. once the fridge gets down to temp the motherboard will divert the refrigerant to the freezer evap only to get the freezer down to temp. Right now it sounds like its stuck trrying to cool the fridge but cant because the fan isnt running. The parts lookup doesnt list the refrigerator evap motor, can you take a picture of it?



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 Posted: Mon Jul 13th, 2009 01:56 pm
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cncltd1973
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Thanks, that makes me feel better. The fan isn't sold seperately, you have to buy the foam housing. It's ge# Part Number: WR17X11915
Short Description : COVER EVAP ASM (pic here: http://www.repairclinic.com/dbImages/00001257/00379327.jpg)
To make it worse, the manufacturer of the fan doesn't show it in their inventory. I guess I'll buy a high cfm fan and retro fit it to the foam housing. That's $20 instead of $150!

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 Posted: Mon Jul 13th, 2009 06:34 pm
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denrayr
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i recommend verifying the fan is getting power before you pull the trigger on it.



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 Posted: Mon Jul 13th, 2009 06:36 pm
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RegUS_PatOff
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cncltd1973 wrote: ... the manufacturer of the fan doesn't show it in their inventory...
what names/numbers are on the Fan ?



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 Posted: Mon Jul 13th, 2009 06:56 pm
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cncltd1973
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Hi Denray, yes I checked the harness: 13v when the door trigger is down, and none when open. I've replaced the fan with a radioshack 4.7" fan 12v and .4amps. It only gives 78cfm, as opposed to the 100cfm or so the origianal puts out. But it'll get progress going until I can install a better one from the internet.

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 Posted: Mon Jul 13th, 2009 07:04 pm
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cncltd1973
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Hi RegUs, The fan is by NMB-MAT, model# FBA10B12H. The website is nmbtc.com and guess what - they don't have the fan anymore! So I recarved the foam housing to accept a 120mmx120mmx25mm fan. Just have to match some technical specs, and it's a $15 alterantive to the $150 replacement.

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