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F&P DD603 Stuck in Cycle  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Wed Jul 1st, 2009 04:22 am
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dmayou
Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
 

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The top drawer of my beloved DD603 will not get through a standard wash cycle. In Fast eco mode (38 minute cycle), the drawer will not progress past 26 minutes remaining on the display. On Fast (58 minute cycle), it sticks on 29 minutes. The wash just continues without end. I can complete the wash by turning the drawer off, then on, choosing the rinse cycle, and starting.

A rinse cycle (12 minutes) completes normally. In diagnostic mode, I can complete the fast cycle, and all functions in diagnostic mode seem to me to work correctly. The tub home sensor works properly as I open and close the drawer.

I have tried swapping the control modules between the bottom and top, but the problem stays with the upper drawer. The light tubes/prism arrangement at the side of the tub seems clean and alligned. The board with the flood switch (in bottom tray) has been through a lot of abuse, but there doesn't seem to be many relevent parts on it that I can see. I also can't see an easy way to swap top and bottom connections, at least not with the amount of beer I keep on hand at any one time.

I've spent so much intimate time with this unit resolving F1 errors and tenderly sopping up trays of water late into the night, that I can't bear to think it's over. Is there something I'm missing that can restore automatic function to the upper drawer?

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 Posted: Thu Jul 2nd, 2009 04:14 am
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Scottthewolf
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The leak may have shorted out the heater in the bottom of the drawer. Because the water never reaches a hot enough temperature to satisfy the temperature sensor, it keeps on washing.



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Scott Wolf
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 Posted: Thu Jul 2nd, 2009 04:39 am
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dmayou
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I'm slapping my forehead as I type! Thank you so much. I'll have another look at it.

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 Posted: Fri Jul 3rd, 2009 09:34 pm
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dmayou
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Checking the continuity of the heating element circuit, it seems to be open under the tub. I have removed the heater element (3.5 on the suds-o-meter), and found a break in the heating trace. After much effort, I soldered a piece of copper wire across it, and reinstalled. The yellow gaskets seem to have stretched, and it is hard to get them in place. Sure enough, after reassembing, it is leaking from the heating element gasket. Should I get new gaskets to ensure a good seal, or have I missed a basic step?

Last edited on Sat Jul 4th, 2009 12:09 am by dmayou

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 Posted: Sat Jul 4th, 2009 09:56 am
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Budget Appliance Repair
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If you thank your solder repair is going to hold up and last, (it most likely will), then order a new gasket, (if you can get it separate from the heater), I believe a new gasket may come with a new heater.  I could be very wrong on that, I haven't worked on many of these.

EDITED to add: Look up the DD603 parts and if you order a new heater plate it comes with:

527702 KIT HEATER PLATE PH3 US
                     HEATER PLATE ASSY PH3 US
                     525059 SEAL MOTOR HOUSING
                     525058 SEAL HEATER PLATE/TUB

Or your can order just the seals separate from the heater plate by ordering the seal part#'s referenced in the above kit.

Last edited on Sat Jul 4th, 2009 10:03 am by Budget Appliance Repair



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William Burk (Willie)
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 Posted: Sat Jul 11th, 2009 04:36 am
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dmayou
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I bought a new heater along with the new seals. After seeing how much 'fun' replacing the heater is, I decided that I wasn't going to chance the solder breaking. After putting it all back together, the drawer works again. Thank you, Scottthewolf, for your advice.

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