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 Moderated by: RegUS_PatOff, Pegi, appl.tech.29501 Tell a friend about this page... all your other friends are doing it! Page:    1  2  Next Page Last Page  
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GE PTS22LHRARCC Freezer warming up too much  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Sun Jun 21st, 2009 09:39 pm
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Freeport Fool
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Hi ,I have a GE PTS22LHRRARCC.  My problem is that the freezer gets way above freezing during the defrost cycle.  Eventually. the fresh food compartment gets too warm also.  Unplugging seems to reset it only some of the time.  I went through manual and Albrightie98s' post and suggestions to him.  I can't see any broken solder joints.  After uplugging,waiting 15 sec,plugging in, voltage from J7 pin9 to J8 reads 120 then trips relay and drops to 0.  After a while relay trips again and sounds like compressor starts.  Sometimes checking that V triggers a relay, sometimes it doesn't.  I've been messing with it to get temp in freezer down for a few days at a time until I could post this.  I am currently a member of the Fugahwe Tribe.  Could someone point me in the right direction?  Please????

Thank you,

FF


Checked list of mutha board recalls,  this model not listed.  Hope this edited post explains better.  Reread orig and without checikng it would be vague.  thanks again

Last edited on Mon Jun 22nd, 2009 09:06 pm by Freeport Fool

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 Posted: Tue Jun 23rd, 2009 02:13 am
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himeros
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The first question would be, how long does it stay in defrost mode?  If it stays in defrost more than 30 minutes you have a problem. 

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 Posted: Tue Jun 23rd, 2009 02:24 am
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(requested 31-9077 manual sent June 16th)

or if the Evaporator (Freezer) Fan runs during Defrost ...



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 Posted: Tue Jun 23rd, 2009 02:12 pm
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Hi Himeros,
I'm not sure how long defrost is on, but I do have a problem.:laughing:
Does having voltage between J7 pin 9 and j8 indicate that the defrost is on?

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 Posted: Tue Jun 23rd, 2009 03:48 pm
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J9 is the Defrost

Did you try the Diagnostic Chart in the Service Manual ?



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 Posted: Thu Jun 25th, 2009 06:14 pm
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Hi again,
I started going through diagnostic chart and now I have a real apprentice question. How do you check a thermistor?
thanks
tim

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 Posted: Thu Jun 25th, 2009 06:49 pm
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using OHM meter..

resistance values in Service manual on page 35 (PDF page 37)



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 Posted: Fri Jun 26th, 2009 02:11 pm
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I realize that an ohm meter needs to be used. What I need to know is if this can be done where the thermistors connect to the mutha board or measured at the thermistor itself?

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 Posted: Fri Jun 26th, 2009 02:41 pm
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check them at the MB, but disconnect them first ...



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 Posted: Tue Jul 7th, 2009 02:09 pm
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Finally, back to the reefer. Going through the diagnostic chart on the PTS22LHRRARCC Refrigerator with warm freezer I came up with thermistor values for J1 pin 1 to pin 5= 12.3k, pin 3 to 5=31.9k, and pin 4 to 5 = 29.9k. These measurements were taken from the plug. All of the actual pin combos showed 5 VDC. I thought they were supposed to be lower according to manual.

am I going about this the right way?
Thanks again tim

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 Posted: Thu Jul 9th, 2009 07:31 pm
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Freeport Fool wrote:  J1 pin 1 to pin 5= 12.3k, pin 3 to 5=31.9k, and pin 4 to 5 = 29.9k.
... what are the actual Fridge/Freezer temperatures ?



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 Posted: Thu Jul 30th, 2009 02:09 pm
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Hi again. Back on the job. Checked thermistors again.
1 to 5 (freshfood thermistor-right?) 10.48 kohms@41degF
3 to 5 (freezer) 12.84 " @37 F
4 to 5 14.52 kohms

When I do the 15 sec reset and restart, the compressor doesn't come on,but the condensor and evap fan do. Checking v between J7-9 and J8 is usually zero, but will sometimes start compressor and then v=120. Sometimes relay clicks on and off and compressor stops.

It appears that the thermistors are within range and that I need to replace mother board. What does the master think of all this?

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 Posted: Mon Aug 3rd, 2009 01:58 pm
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Freeport Fool wrote: Hi again. Back on the job. Checked thermistors again.
1 to 5 (freshfood thermistor-right?) 10.48 kohms@41degF
3 to 5 (freezer) 12.84 " @37 F
4 to 5 14.52 kohms

When I do the 15 sec reset and restart, the compressor doesn't come on,but the condensor and evap fan do. Checking v between J7-9 and J8 is usually zero, but will sometimes start compressor and then v=120. Sometimes relay clicks on and off and compressor stops.

It appears that the thermistors are within range and that I need to replace mother board. What does the master think of all this?

This is a PTS22LHRRARCC that the freezer is warming up.  I've been getting by by resetting.  That doesn't always seem to work.  I finally have some time , and would like to wrap this up.  Am I right about the MB?

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 Posted: Wed Aug 5th, 2009 12:55 pm
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Freeport Fool wrote:
Sometimes relay clicks on and off and compressor stops

Which relay is clicking off and on-- the start relay on the compressor?



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 Posted: Wed Aug 5th, 2009 01:19 pm
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The relay is for the copressor but it sounds like it's at the mb

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 Posted: Wed Aug 5th, 2009 01:23 pm
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Re-reading your findings, it seems like we need to rule out a hard starting compressor or bad start relay before we condemn the muthaboard. Does the compressor ever start when you have 120vac at J8?



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 Posted: Wed Aug 5th, 2009 01:39 pm
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man wrote: Re-reading your findings, it seems like we need to rule out a hard starting compressor or bad start relay before we condemn the muthaboard. Does the compressor ever start when you have 120vac at J8?
Yes it does start sometimes when I have120vac.  Sometimes the compressor starts when I measure v between J7-9 and J8.  It starts as a result of me measuring v.  sometimes the compressor just drops out after a few seconds when I do this.  today it continued to run and at 4pm it was down to37F in the ff and -2 in the freezer.  Just about at the settings.    thanks  ff

Last edited on Wed Aug 5th, 2009 09:37 pm by Freeport Fool

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 Posted: Mon Aug 10th, 2009 12:04 pm
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Still in need of advice when somebody has a few minutes

ff

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 Posted: Mon Aug 10th, 2009 12:59 pm
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Freeport Fool wrote: ... Sometimes the compressor starts when I measure v between J7-9 and J8.  It starts as a result of me measuring v.  sometimes the compressor just drops out after a few seconds when I do this .... 
Did you check (closely) for a bad/broken solder joint on the back of the MB at J8 ?



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 Posted: Mon Aug 10th, 2009 01:46 pm
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Pulled Mb, there are no apparent cracks,burns or breaks in the solder joints.

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