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GE Oven Model #J KP86 is not heating up properly but seems to get warm  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Sun Jul 26th, 2009 05:33 am
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kdog
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ccmulder wrote:  we did find a thermostat that was bad--jumped that--
 

 

Did you jump the thermostat that the oven doesn't have, or it doesn't have one because it's a juper wire ??



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 Posted: Sun Jul 26th, 2009 03:56 pm
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ccmulder
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kdog wrote: ccmulder wrote:  we did find a thermostat that was bad--jumped that--
 

 

Did you jump the thermostat that the oven doesn't have, or it doesn't have one because it's a juper wire ??

The thermostat that was bad was not at the back of the oven--it was in the Microwave--we jumped that--still didn't fix the problem.  Then we jumped the wires on the DLB relay--that fixed the problem (oven worked).  So the issue is does that mean that relay is bad or is it controlled by something else--the concern is that relay may be fine but may be controlled by something else that's a problem.

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 Posted: Sun Jul 26th, 2009 04:40 pm
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ccmulder
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Going to post the 5 pages of documents that I found inside the microwave in an envelope

 

Attachment: Page 1 (schematic-wiring.jpg (Downloaded 22 times)

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 Posted: Sun Jul 26th, 2009 04:40 pm
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ccmulder
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Page 2

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 Posted: Sun Jul 26th, 2009 04:41 pm
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ccmulder
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Page 3

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Last edited on Sun Jul 26th, 2009 04:42 pm by ccmulder

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 Posted: Sun Jul 26th, 2009 04:42 pm
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ccmulder
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 Posted: Sun Jul 26th, 2009 04:43 pm
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ccmulder
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 Posted: Sun Jul 26th, 2009 04:43 pm
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ccmulder
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I have that in PDF that is much clearer if anyone wants to see it I can e-mail it to you.

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 Posted: Sun Jul 26th, 2009 05:07 pm
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kdog
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The question is, what is causing the relay that closes the red to orange wires to close- the control board of the unit does that by sending a small voltage to the coil of the relay you are bypassing- either it is not getting the gate voltage, or the relay is incapable of closing. It is difficult at best to measure the gate voltage while oven is in operation, but since you have the board in your hand, pop the plastic cover from the relay and take a visual on the contacts within, if they are a charred mess, then the relay (board) is F.U.B.A.R.



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 Posted: Sun Jul 26th, 2009 06:35 pm
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ccmulder wrote: The thermostat that was bad was not at the back of the oven--it was in the Microwave .... ..... ..... Then we jumped the wires on the DLB relay--that fixed the problem (oven worked). 

The only service manual I have shows the (earlier ?) model JKP86 that uses the WB27T10600  (different board)

&^#_ @ +&^#%$  GE® imagination at work

 



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 Posted: Sun Jul 26th, 2009 06:58 pm
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ccmulder
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The question remains however--is that relay bad and how can we tell?  As I said, I've got the oven working find with that DLB relay jumped--got no problem with ordering the part but not sure if that is in fact the problem.

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 Posted: Sun Jul 26th, 2009 07:05 pm
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kdog
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kdog wrote: The question is, what is causing the relay that closes the red to orange wires to close- the control board of the unit does that by sending a small voltage to the coil of the relay you are bypassing- either it is not getting the gate voltage, or the relay is incapable of closing. It is difficult at best to measure the gate voltage while oven is in operation, but since you have the board in your hand, pop the plastic cover from the relay and take a visual on the contacts within, if they are a charred mess, then the relay (board) is F.U.B.A.R.



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 Posted: Mon Jul 27th, 2009 05:58 pm
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ccmulder
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If I pull out the DLB Relay, I pull out the contacts to the board as well--doesn't that then make that piece inoperable?  I tried pulling it--there is no plastic cap--it is soldered onto the board, I believe.

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 Posted: Mon Jul 27th, 2009 05:59 pm
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ccmulder
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BTW--the fan does not turn off now (the cooling fan at the back of the oven--what controls that fan?

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