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- > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Kitchen Appliance Repair Forum > subzero refrigerator 561 cold at bottom warm at top

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subzero refrigerator 561 cold at bottom warm at top  Rating:  Rating
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 Posted: Sun May 24th, 2009 02:50 pm
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ncalsuz
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you guys are awesome. I will do this in a couple hours and post the photo's

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 Posted: Sun May 24th, 2009 06:45 pm
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ncalsuz
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wont let me upload zip..so having to post with multiple posts

 

photo 1

Attachment: subzero 001.jpg (Downloaded 69 times)

Last edited on Sun May 24th, 2009 06:46 pm by ncalsuz

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 Posted: Sun May 24th, 2009 06:46 pm
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ncalsuz
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photo 2

Attachment: subzero 002.jpg (Downloaded 69 times)

Last edited on Sun May 24th, 2009 06:47 pm by ncalsuz

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 Posted: Sun May 24th, 2009 06:47 pm
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ncalsuz
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photo 3

Attachment: subzero 003.jpg (Downloaded 71 times)

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 Posted: Sun May 24th, 2009 06:48 pm
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ncalsuz
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photo 4

Attachment: subzero 004.jpg (Downloaded 69 times)

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 Posted: Sun May 24th, 2009 06:49 pm
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ncalsuz
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and final photo 5

Attachment: subzero 005.jpg (Downloaded 70 times)

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 Posted: Sun May 24th, 2009 07:04 pm
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:violin:

 

 

 

looks like the common SZ Sealed System leak ...

Last edited on Sun May 24th, 2009 07:05 pm by RegUS_PatOff



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 Posted: Sun May 24th, 2009 07:13 pm
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ncalsuz
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ok so what does that mean?  and how do I fix it?

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 Posted: Sun May 24th, 2009 07:24 pm
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ncalsuz
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I did some searching like I am supposed to and found several answers to this. Is there a way to tell if I only need to replace the evaporator, or the evap and condensor....can I do something that puts a bandaid on it to keep it limping along until we sell this house?

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 Posted: Sun May 24th, 2009 07:38 pm
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I'm not a Sealed System expert, and the leak could be anywhere,
but I think the SZ Evaporators are known to have problems...

It may be $300 to $500 or more to be replaced/ freon charged

OR you could just have a service guy re-charge the system,

It may last for a year or more depending on the size of the leak ...

 

How old is the Unit ?

The Sealed System has 12yr parts warranty

 


Last edited on Sun May 24th, 2009 07:47 pm by RegUS_PatOff



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 Posted: Sun May 24th, 2009 07:45 pm
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ncalsuz
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according to the sticker in it, it was made in 1900, In October 1997 the compressor and evaporator were replaced, the freon was evacuated and replaced as that time.  Is there a way to tell what kind of freon is in it and add it ourselves.  I saw in the autoparts store cans of freon you can add to car airconditioners....or am I crazy and need to give up the DIY dream and hire a professional?

Last edited on Sun May 24th, 2009 07:56 pm by ncalsuz

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 Posted: Sun May 24th, 2009 08:38 pm
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denrayr
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im not 100% convinced its low on freon. That frost pattern looks like one you would see with the fan not running. lick your finger and stick it where i put the blue arrow, see if it sticks.

 

 

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 Posted: Sun May 24th, 2009 09:31 pm
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ncalsuz
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well there is ice on it at the blue arrow, its just clear not frosty so I don't think I have to risk my finger tip. 

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 Posted: Sun May 24th, 2009 10:14 pm
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denrayr
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defrost the evaperator then let it run an hour or so and check the frost pattern again



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 Posted: Sun May 24th, 2009 10:34 pm
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The fresh food side is an 'off' cycle defrost, The evaporator coils defrost when the compressor is not running....... The heavy frost and ice is  accumultive....high humidity, frequent door opening, door left open...... I cannot go back and check who  stated  'poor air flow' is closer to being correct...... with the upper fins partially blocked, you get 'low air flow'  Do as denrayr suggests......just make sure ALL of the ice is removed where the lines enter and leave the evap. coils  ( end of the heat exchanger ).. keep us posted....  P.S.  It was denrayr

Last edited on Sun May 24th, 2009 10:36 pm by certified tech group 51

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 Posted: Wed May 27th, 2009 12:06 am
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ncalsuz
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I had the refrigerator all put back together, so I left it off for a couple hours to defrost, then turned it back on the 6 setting. It is holding coolness, but the ice is building back up and there is all ready some on the back of the refrigerator by the lunchmeat drawer and that happened in less than 8 hours. The fan is running except during the defrost times. I am still hoping I can keep it limping along and perhaps get it recharged to hold off having the big major repair for a few months.  Is this advisable? 

 

 

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 Posted: Wed May 27th, 2009 12:42 am
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denrayr
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denrayr wrote: defrost the evaperator then let it run an hour or so and check the frost pattern again



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 Posted: Wed May 27th, 2009 03:34 am
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denrayr wrote: denrayr wrote: defrost the evaperator then let it run an hour or so and check the frost pattern again

completely Defrost (with hair dryer or whatever ...)

picture of frost pattern after an hour would be nice... 200k MAX



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 Posted: Wed May 27th, 2009 03:44 am
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ncalsuz
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will do, unfortunately I can't get to this until this weekend but I will do it Saturday morning and post the less than 200kb photo.

 

Thanks

Suzanne

Last edited on Wed May 27th, 2009 03:44 am by ncalsuz

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 Posted: Tue Sep 8th, 2009 02:19 am
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ncalsuz
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I finally bit the bullet and got my fridge serviced. It was either leaking valves or a leak in the evaporator coils but since he was here he replaced both. Of course the parts were only 80.00 the labor was another story. Total bill 633.00 for 90 minutes of work. Wow...I need to learn to work on the closed systems...Thank everyone for the help, I probably could have kept it limping along by shutting it off and thawing it every couple of weeks, but I didn't want to worry about it anymore.

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