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Kenmore Electric Range C970-624182  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Mon May 18th, 2009 09:03 pm
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darcypa

 

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Good day Oh Great ones;

    I have a Kenmore electric range C970-624182 built in 2003.  Through due diligence and safe testing practices using the schematics (318046743 Rev A) enclosed behind the control panel I find the following:

    Symptoms - Call fro Bake - Bake element does not heat, Call for Broil, Broil element does not heat

    Bake Element - Removed power, disconnect both yellow wires from bake element and measure approx 18.7 ohms between the terminals, between each terminal and chassis I read open cct.   Between both terminals each and the outer element reads open cct.


     Broil Element - Removed power, Disconnect both blue wires from the broil element and measure approx 31.5 ohms between the terminals, between each terminal and chassis I read open cct.   Between both terminals each and the outer element reads open cct.

     Temperature Probe - Disconnect wiring harness from the Spitfire ES300 EOC (SF5301-006B Rev 1 ??? Very difficult to read).  Measure resistance between harness pins 12 and 13 (both violet) reads 1062 ohms at room tempurature.

 
     Reconnect wires to elments, apply power - set clock, Open oven door - Light comes on.

     call for Bake 350 - Relays click, Bake, heat and preheat LEDs come on, I get approx 123 VAC between each bake element terminal and chassis, I get approx 123 VAC between each broil element terminal and chassis, 0 VAC between both bake terminals, 0 VAC between both broil terminals,

        ON the control board between test point and chassis

        Bake - 123 VAC
        Broil - 123 VAC
        L1     - 123 VAC
        L2 Out - 123 VAC
        L2 IN    - 123 VAC

        Elements do  not heat

    Call for Broil HI, Replays click, Broil and heat LED's come on, I get approx 123 VAC between each bake element terminal and chassis, I get approx 123 VAC between each broil element terminal and chassis, 0 VAC between both bake terminals, 0 VAC between both broil terminals,

    ON the control board between test point and chassis

        Bake - 123 VAC
        Broil - 123 VAC
        L1     - 123 VAC
        L2 Out - 123 VAC
        L2 IN    - 123 VAC

        Elements do  not heat
    
What is my next step???

Thanx




  

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 Posted: Mon May 18th, 2009 10:50 pm
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RegUS_PatOff
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It would be better to measure the voltages at the Control Board with the Elements disconnected.

Otherwise, (since one leg is not connecting) when you read 120v to chassis, you don't know which leg (L1 or L2)
of the power is making it through (the Element) to the voltmeter...

There's a Relay that connects L1 to each Element and a Relay that connects L2 to the Elements.
 

Could you post the Wiring Diagram number from the lower right corner ?


Last edited on Mon May 18th, 2009 10:52 pm by RegUS_PatOff



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 Posted: Wed May 20th, 2009 05:49 am
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darcypa

 

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Good day,

     Wiring Diagram # 318046743 REV A

Disconected Y-2 from the side NOT directly connected to the EOC, Called for Bake at 350,

Reading 123 VAC at each of the bake element terminals

Bake P2 = 6 VAC
Broil P3 = 0 VAC
L1 P1 = 5.9 VAC
L2 OUT P4 = 0 VAC
L2 In P7 = 6.1 VAC

Disconnected Y-2 from the side DIRECTLY connected to the EOC, Called for Bake at 350,

Reading 0 VAC at each of the bake element terminals

Bake P2 = 6 VAC
Broil P3 = 0 VAC
L1 P1 = 6 VAC
L2 OUT P4 = 0 VAC
L2 In P7 = 6.2 VAC

Disconnected BL-2 from the side NOT directly connected to the EOC, Called for Broil HI,

reading 123VAC at each side of the Broil element terminals

Bake P2 = 0 VAC
Broil P3 = 6.9 VAC
L1 P1 = 6.2 VAC
L2 OUT P4 = 0 VAC
L2 In P7 = 6.4 VAC


Disconnected BL-2 from the side DIRECTLY connected to the EOC, Called for Broil HI,

reading 0 VAC at each side of the Broil element terminals

Bake P2 = 0 VAC
Broil P3 = 6.3 VAC
L1 P1 = 6.3 VAC
L2 OUT P4 = 0 VAC
L2 In P7 = 6.5 VAC

Note - I have attached a zip file with a short piece of audio of a sound I hear when I plug the stove in.


Whats Next?


Attachment: VN 00003.zip (Downloaded 3 times)

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 Posted: Wed May 20th, 2009 10:38 am
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RegUS_PatOff
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darcypa wrote: ...
Disconected Y-2 from the side NOT directly connected to the EOC, Called for Bake at 350,

Reading 123 VAC at each of the bake element terminals

Bake P2 = 6 VAC
Broil P3 = 0 VAC
L1 P1 = 5.9 VAC
L2 OUT P4 = 0 VAC
L2 In P7 = 6.1

Do the Cooktop Burners work OK ?

> Reading 123 VAC at each of the bake element terminals

OK, looks good.. some of the Relays on the EOC are good.....

> Bake P2 = 6 VAC
> Broil P3 = 0 VAC
> L1 P1 = 5.9 VAC
> L2 OUT P4 = 0 VAC
> L2 In P7 = 6.1

check those voltages again... should read 120VAC on L1 P1  (connected directly to L2 Line voltage)

Wiring Diagram # 318046743 REV A



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 Posted: Wed May 20th, 2009 12:04 pm
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Chat_in_RI



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RegUS_PatOff wrote: check those voltages again... should read 120VAC on L1 P1  (connected directly to L2 Line voltage)

Wiring Diagram # 318046743 REV A

Also check voltage accross P4 to P7 with either bake or broil selected (all wires connected), this relay is a common failure for this board and is in both the bake & broil ckts, (Symptoms - Call for Bake - Bake element does not heat, Call for Broil, Broil element does not heat).



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 Posted: Wed May 20th, 2009 04:47 pm
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darcypa

 

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Thanx for your help thus far, 

Yes all the top cooking elements work fine.

I will re-check voltages tonight, but to be clear when I recheck these, should I disconnect only one side of the elements (which side) or both sides of the elements?  Should I disconnect both elements at the same time. I am also puzzled by my previous readings but rest assured I know how to use a meter and read a schematic.  The link you posted to the wiring diagram is the same wiring diagram I am working from.

I will also test between P4 and P7 with all wires connected.

Darcy

Last edited on Wed May 20th, 2009 04:53 pm by darcypa

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 Posted: Wed May 20th, 2009 05:50 pm
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Disconnect one side of the Elements for these tests..
just as youi have been...

P4 to P7 with wires connected...



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 Posted: Thu May 21st, 2009 02:33 am
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darcypa

 

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Good day,

   Today I first confirm that both L1 and L2 are present at the incoming terminal strip

L1 (R9) to N (W3) 123VAC
L2 (BK-2) to N (W3) 123 VAC

Now before calling any bake or broil programs, I check all pins on EOC against ground with all wires connected

Bake P2 = 0 VAC
Broil P3 = 0 VAC
L1  P1 (Connected to L2 via BK-2) = 6.8 VAC
L2 Out P4 (connected to L1 via R-9) = 0 VAC
L2 IN P7 = 7.1 VAC
Between P4 and P7 = 35.9 VAC


Next Call for Bake at 350 and Check again

Bake P2 = 6.7 VAC
Broil P3 = 6.7 VAC
L1  P1 (Connected to L2 via BK-2) = 6.7 VAC
L2 Out P4 (connected to L1 via R-9) = 6.7 VAC
L2 IN P7 = 7.2 VAC
Between P4 and P7 = 250 VAC

One more time with Y-2 and BL-2 disconnected from OUT P7 (BR-2)

Bake P2 = 6.6 VAC
Broil P3 = 6.6 VAC
L1  P1 (Connected to L2 via BK-2) = 6.6 VAC
L2 Out P4 (connected to L1 via R-9) = 0 VAC
L2 IN P7 = 7.1 VAC
Between P4 and P7 = 0 VAC

and just so we are on the same page, this is how I am reading the schematic vs the physical layout

Schematic                            Board
Bake P2 ----------------------- Bake P2
Broil P3  ----------------------- Broil P3
L1    P1  ----------------------- L1  P1 (Connected to L2 via BK-2)
IN    P4  ----------------------- L2 Out P4 (connected to L1 via R-9)
OUT P7  ----------------------- L2 IN P7


Next ?


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 Posted: Thu May 21st, 2009 02:51 am
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RegUS_PatOff
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RegUS_PatOff wrote: check those voltages again... should read 120VAC on L1 P1  (connected directly to L2 Line voltage)
darcypa wrote:
L1  P1 (Connected to L2 via BK-2) = 6.8 VAC
L1 P1 should have the same volatge as L2 Terminal Strip


(are your Nuts tight ?)  :groucho:



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 Posted: Thu May 21st, 2009 03:06 am
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darcypa

 

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Hmmm Does that mean that the EOC is shorted?  I can pull the wire from the EOC and check ?

Darcy

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 Posted: Thu May 21st, 2009 03:47 am
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RegUS_PatOff
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did you check for broken wires and inspect/tighten the Nuts on the Terminal Strip ?



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 Posted: Thu May 21st, 2009 11:12 am
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Chat_in_RI



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darcypa wrote: all wires connected

Next Call for Bake at 350 and Check again

Bake P2 = 6.7 VAC
Broil P3 = 6.7 VAC
L1  P1 (Connected to L2 via BK-2) = 6.7 VAC
L2 Out P4 (connected to L1 via R-9) = 6.7 VAC
L2 IN P7 = 7.2 VAC
Between P4 and P7 = 250 VAC


 

This should be 0 VAC, Your relay is open when it should be shut, you have a bad oven control board.



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 Posted: Wed Jun 3rd, 2009 08:23 pm
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darcypa

 

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Yes the control board was shorted.  It looks like the relay at K3 was the culprit.  I was able to get a replacement controller from sears $220.00 CAD Plus Tax, Plus shipping.  Installed the new board and all functionality has returned.

Links to a few pic's of the blown board.

Electronic Oven Control ES300
Blown relay cooked other board
Tracks blown off under the K3 relay
Damage to other board as a result of relay blowing

Interesting that the LED's opposite the last picture still worked!

Thanx to all for the assistance.


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 Posted: Thu Jun 4th, 2009 11:08 am
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Chat_in_RI



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Thanks for the pics! Never had a chance to take such a close look at the board after I replaced it.



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