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ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Kitchen Appliance Repair Forum > Kenmore Electric Range C970-624182 |
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| Moderated by: BrntToast, RegUS_PatOff, appl.tech.29501 | Search Our Sites for More Info! |
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| Kenmore Electric Range C970-624182 | Rate Topic |
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| Posted: Mon May 18th, 2009 09:03 pm |
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1st Post |
darcypa
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Good day Oh Great ones; I have a Kenmore electric range C970-624182 built in 2003. Through due diligence and safe testing practices using the schematics (318046743 Rev A) enclosed behind the control panel I find the following: Symptoms - Call fro Bake - Bake element does not heat, Call for Broil, Broil element does not heat Bake Element - Removed power, disconnect both yellow wires from bake element and measure approx 18.7 ohms between the terminals, between each terminal and chassis I read open cct. Between both terminals each and the outer element reads open cct. Broil Element - Removed power, Disconnect both blue wires from the broil element and measure approx 31.5 ohms between the terminals, between each terminal and chassis I read open cct. Between both terminals each and the outer element reads open cct. Temperature Probe - Disconnect wiring harness from the Spitfire ES300 EOC (SF5301-006B Rev 1 ??? Very difficult to read). Measure resistance between harness pins 12 and 13 (both violet) reads 1062 ohms at room tempurature. Reconnect wires to elments, apply power - set clock, Open oven door - Light comes on. call for Bake 350 - Relays click, Bake, heat and preheat LEDs come on, I get approx 123 VAC between each bake element terminal and chassis, I get approx 123 VAC between each broil element terminal and chassis, 0 VAC between both bake terminals, 0 VAC between both broil terminals, ON the control board between test point and chassis Bake - 123 VAC Broil - 123 VAC L1 - 123 VAC L2 Out - 123 VAC L2 IN - 123 VAC Elements do not heat Call for Broil HI, Replays click, Broil and heat LED's come on, I get approx 123 VAC between each bake element terminal and chassis, I get approx 123 VAC between each broil element terminal and chassis, 0 VAC between both bake terminals, 0 VAC between both broil terminals, ON the control board between test point and chassis Bake - 123 VAC Broil - 123 VAC L1 - 123 VAC L2 Out - 123 VAC L2 IN - 123 VAC Elements do not heat What is my next step??? Thanx
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| Posted: Mon May 18th, 2009 10:50 pm |
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2nd Post |
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RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology 
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It would be better to measure the voltages at the Control Board with the Elements disconnected. Otherwise, (since one leg is not connecting) when you read 120v to chassis, you don't know which leg (L1 or L2) of the power is making it through (the Element) to the voltmeter... There's a Relay that connects L1 to each Element and a Relay that connects L2 to the Elements. Could you post the Wiring Diagram number from the lower right corner ? Last edited on Mon May 18th, 2009 10:52 pm by RegUS_PatOff ____________________ The new repair forums==> http://appliantology.org RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw my video production: “Easter Seals Walk With Me” http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EBiLyYXMiA |
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| Posted: Wed May 20th, 2009 05:49 am |
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3rd Post |
darcypa
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Good day, Wiring Diagram # 318046743 REV A Disconected Y-2 from the side NOT directly connected to the EOC, Called for Bake at 350, Reading 123 VAC at each of the bake element terminals Bake P2 = 6 VAC Broil P3 = 0 VAC L1 P1 = 5.9 VAC L2 OUT P4 = 0 VAC L2 In P7 = 6.1 VAC Disconnected Y-2 from the side DIRECTLY connected to the EOC, Called for Bake at 350, Reading 0 VAC at each of the bake element terminals Bake P2 = 6 VAC Broil P3 = 0 VAC L1 P1 = 6 VAC L2 OUT P4 = 0 VAC L2 In P7 = 6.2 VAC Disconnected BL-2 from the side NOT directly connected to the EOC, Called for Broil HI, reading 123VAC at each side of the Broil element terminals Bake P2 = 0 VAC Broil P3 = 6.9 VAC L1 P1 = 6.2 VAC L2 OUT P4 = 0 VAC L2 In P7 = 6.4 VAC Disconnected BL-2 from the side DIRECTLY connected to the EOC, Called for Broil HI, reading 0 VAC at each side of the Broil element terminals Bake P2 = 0 VAC Broil P3 = 6.3 VAC L1 P1 = 6.3 VAC L2 OUT P4 = 0 VAC L2 In P7 = 6.5 VAC Note - I have attached a zip file with a short piece of audio of a sound I hear when I plug the stove in. Whats Next? Attachment: VN 00003.zip (Downloaded 3 times)
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| Posted: Wed May 20th, 2009 10:38 am |
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4th Post |
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RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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darcypa wrote: ... Do the Cooktop Burners work OK ? > Reading 123 VAC at each of the bake element terminals OK, looks good.. some of the Relays on the EOC are good..... > Bake P2 = 6 VAC > Broil P3 = 0 VAC > L1 P1 = 5.9 VAC > L2 OUT P4 = 0 VAC > L2 In P7 = 6.1 check those voltages again... should read 120VAC on L1 P1 (connected directly to L2 Line voltage) Wiring Diagram # 318046743 REV A
____________________ The new repair forums==> http://appliantology.org RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw my video production: “Easter Seals Walk With Me” http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EBiLyYXMiA |
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| Posted: Wed May 20th, 2009 12:04 pm |
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5th Post |
Chat_in_RI
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RegUS_PatOff wrote: check those voltages again... should read 120VAC on L1 P1 (connected directly to L2 Line voltage) Also check voltage accross P4 to P7 with either bake or broil selected (all wires connected), this relay is a common failure for this board and is in both the bake & broil ckts, (Symptoms - Call for Bake - Bake element does not heat, Call for Broil, Broil element does not heat).
____________________ We, the unwilling, led by the unknowing, are doing the impossible for the ungrateful. We have done so much, for so long, with so little, we are now qualified to do anything with nothing. Mother Teresa |
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| Posted: Wed May 20th, 2009 04:47 pm |
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6th Post |
darcypa
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Thanx for your help thus far, Yes all the top cooking elements work fine. I will re-check voltages tonight, but to be clear when I recheck these, should I disconnect only one side of the elements (which side) or both sides of the elements? Should I disconnect both elements at the same time. I am also puzzled by my previous readings but rest assured I know how to use a meter and read a schematic. The link you posted to the wiring diagram is the same wiring diagram I am working from. I will also test between P4 and P7 with all wires connected. Darcy Last edited on Wed May 20th, 2009 04:53 pm by darcypa |
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| Posted: Wed May 20th, 2009 05:50 pm |
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7th Post |
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RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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Disconnect one side of the Elements for these tests.. just as youi have been... P4 to P7 with wires connected...
____________________ The new repair forums==> http://appliantology.org RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw my video production: “Easter Seals Walk With Me” http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EBiLyYXMiA |
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| Posted: Thu May 21st, 2009 02:33 am |
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8th Post |
darcypa
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Good day, Today I first confirm that both L1 and L2 are present at the incoming terminal strip L1 (R9) to N (W3) 123VAC L2 (BK-2) to N (W3) 123 VAC Now before calling any bake or broil programs, I check all pins on EOC against ground with all wires connected Bake P2 = 0 VAC Broil P3 = 0 VAC L1 P1 (Connected to L2 via BK-2) = 6.8 VAC L2 Out P4 (connected to L1 via R-9) = 0 VAC L2 IN P7 = 7.1 VAC Between P4 and P7 = 35.9 VAC Next Call for Bake at 350 and Check again Bake P2 = 6.7 VAC Broil P3 = 6.7 VAC L1 P1 (Connected to L2 via BK-2) = 6.7 VAC L2 Out P4 (connected to L1 via R-9) = 6.7 VAC L2 IN P7 = 7.2 VAC Between P4 and P7 = 250 VAC One more time with Y-2 and BL-2 disconnected from OUT P7 (BR-2) Bake P2 = 6.6 VAC Broil P3 = 6.6 VAC L1 P1 (Connected to L2 via BK-2) = 6.6 VAC L2 Out P4 (connected to L1 via R-9) = 0 VAC L2 IN P7 = 7.1 VAC Between P4 and P7 = 0 VAC and just so we are on the same page, this is how I am reading the schematic vs the physical layout Schematic Board Bake P2 ----------------------- Bake P2 Broil P3 ----------------------- Broil P3 L1 P1 ----------------------- L1 P1 (Connected to L2 via BK-2) IN P4 ----------------------- L2 Out P4 (connected to L1 via R-9) OUT P7 ----------------------- L2 IN P7 Next ?
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| Posted: Thu May 21st, 2009 02:51 am |
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9th Post |
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RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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RegUS_PatOff wrote: check those voltages again... should read 120VAC on L1 P1 (connected directly to L2 Line voltage) darcypa wrote: L1 P1 (Connected to L2 via BK-2) = 6.8 VAC L1 P1 should have the same volatge as L2 Terminal Strip (are your Nuts tight ?) 
____________________ The new repair forums==> http://appliantology.org RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw my video production: “Easter Seals Walk With Me” http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EBiLyYXMiA |
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| Posted: Thu May 21st, 2009 03:06 am |
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10th Post |
darcypa
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Hmmm Does that mean that the EOC is shorted? I can pull the wire from the EOC and check ? Darcy
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| Posted: Thu May 21st, 2009 03:47 am |
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11th Post |
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RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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did you check for broken wires and inspect/tighten the Nuts on the Terminal Strip ?
____________________ The new repair forums==> http://appliantology.org RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw my video production: “Easter Seals Walk With Me” http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EBiLyYXMiA |
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| Posted: Thu May 21st, 2009 11:12 am |
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12th Post |
Chat_in_RI
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darcypa wrote: all wires connected This should be 0 VAC, Your relay is open when it should be shut, you have a bad oven control board.
____________________ We, the unwilling, led by the unknowing, are doing the impossible for the ungrateful. We have done so much, for so long, with so little, we are now qualified to do anything with nothing. Mother Teresa |
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| Posted: Wed Jun 3rd, 2009 08:23 pm |
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13th Post |
darcypa
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 Yes the control board was shorted. It looks like the relay at K3 was the culprit. I was able to get a replacement controller from sears $220.00 CAD Plus Tax, Plus shipping. Installed the new board and all functionality has returned.Links to a few pic's of the blown board. Electronic Oven Control ES300 Blown relay cooked other board Tracks blown off under the K3 relay Damage to other board as a result of relay blowing Interesting that the LED's opposite the last picture still worked! Thanx to all for the assistance. 
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| Posted: Thu Jun 4th, 2009 11:08 am |
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14th Post |
Chat_in_RI
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Thanks for the pics! Never had a chance to take such a close look at the board after I replaced it.
____________________ We, the unwilling, led by the unknowing, are doing the impossible for the ungrateful. We have done so much, for so long, with so little, we are now qualified to do anything with nothing. Mother Teresa |
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