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cdelsig Grasshopper
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Posted: Wed May 11th, 2005 05:53 |
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Pegi,
Okay, so I advance the timer to defrost (which I actually have the flying lead on 1; I didn't think it was working on 2, so I took a leap). Now, I may not be the smartest guy on the face of the Earth and I am not "glowing red - black" colorblind, but I'll be darned if the calrod was still jet black and yet the lower portion of the evaporator coils were warm enough to catch my attention when pulling off that back wall!
That would point to the tstat turning off the heater at too low a temp, right? Do I move the lead back to 2? Is inside humidity the problem?
The gasket on my fridge door has 3 breaches: one pencil-eraser sized erosion on the hinge side where it hits metal trim piece on the inside of the fridge; another erosion of the same size on the hinge side from what, I don't have a clue, and a 2" tear on the lower corner opposite the hinge side). Could that be the root of my problem?
I have also noticed the doors sag. The freezer door might be an eighth inch lower on the non-hinge upper corner and the fridge door looks to be a quarter to 3 eighths low as compared to the hinge side. Could this be the offender? How would one go about fixing that?
Should I feel like I'm getting closer? It seems like each discovery I make is like another door I figure out how to open, expecting to find the exit, but just finding another door with a different lock to open.
Chris
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Pegi Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology

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Posted: Wed May 11th, 2005 06:23 |
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| When you said te orignal timer was on 2 and 3 this indicated your timer was wired right unless the timer that was in there was wrong. Now it does sound like the heater is turning off too soon. Let us put the lead back on # 2 and do the by-pass the bi-metal test. The bi-metal temp may be too low, or it is defective or it might not be on the right place on the evap coil. Could have a bad connection somewhere. Would only take a few to do this test..The ice on the coils is caused by moisture in the frig, too much hot moist food put in the box, seals not sealing good. Seal the breaks with silacone to see of this helps. But let us see if the bi-metal is the evil twin here also. Pegi
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cdelsig Grasshopper
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Posted: Thu May 12th, 2005 07:25 |
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Okay, lead put back on 2. Tstat bypassed. Boy, did that get hot! Never glowed and it sure did seem to take a long time to defrost the top 1½" of evaporator coil. I have to assume the defrost would have been more efficient with the back wall off, but it still took some time.
What does all this mean?
Chris
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Posted: Thu May 12th, 2005 07:59 |
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| The back wall covering the evaperator keeps the heat going up to defrost the frost on the coils. Now did the ice defrost? You need to remember when this defrost system is working correctly and defrosts 2-3 times a day, there is very little frost on the coils and NO blocks of ice. I have to assume there was a lot more ice than would normally be on the evaperator. This would be more than the defrost system could remove during a normal 21 minute defrost cycle. If it did defrost the ice with the bi-metal by-passed, you need to consider this might be causing the problem. Get the correct bi-metal, make sure the evap is not iced over and get the system put back together. Then put your controls in the mid position and let it cycle. Monitor the temps in both sides to see if you can see a problem developing again. Remember when the defrost system is working properly the freezer will get up to around 30*-40* when it is in defrost so do not be alarmed with this. You might have gottem a defective timer, but that is unlikely. Try all of this and keep me posted of the developments please. Pegi
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cdelsig Grasshopper
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Posted: Sat May 14th, 2005 03:01 |
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So far so good. The freezer is hanging around 16° and the fridge is around 38°. This is about the time things have started going south. I will keep an eye on things and will have the opportunity to be more responsive over the next week (vacation, whoo hoo!).
Chris
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Posted: Sat May 14th, 2005 18:45 |
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| hummmmm, 16 and 38 is not good, but might have had enough time to settle down and get to correct temperature. Yes, monitor the temps. If it freezes up again, do the defrost the coils drill again and let us try the lead on #1 just incase the one in the box was wired wrong, but not likely. You might just be getting an excess of frost/ice build up due to too much moisture getting into the frig, but why all of a sudden??? Is perhaps the heater is not getting hot enough, but you stated it is getting hot, so............ Yes please let us know how it is going. 0-10 and 35-38 is your target when it is not in defrost and the doors are not opened a lot. Check temps first thing in the a/m when it has been closed up all night, unless your family does a lot of sleep-walking to the frig!!! Pegi
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exsearsguy Sublime Master of Appliantology
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Posted: Sat May 14th, 2005 22:24 |
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| Chris,the ice crystals ,when they form are they large or small. Large ice crystals form slowly and that is a sign of an inefficient comp. When you posted the pic of your evaporator the ice at the top looked very large to me.That is why I suggested it a week ago. Also your temps arent very good and they should be right now just after a defrosting.
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cdelsig Grasshopper
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Posted: Sat May 14th, 2005 22:43 |
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The picture of my frosted evaporator isn't ice so much as it is built up snow, so to speak. So, the crystals are small and it's not solid ice, but built up frost.
I have set the fridge to run at a cooler temp, so it's now a waiting game to see what the temperature stabilizes at. I thought 38° was a good temp for the fridge and teens for the freezer. We'll have to see what happens.
Chris
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Posted: Mon May 16th, 2005 06:17 |
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| Thanks, please let us know..........
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cdelsig Grasshopper
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Posted: Mon May 16th, 2005 06:36 |
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Not exactly happy with the developments. Right now the temps are: 16° and 39°. I opened the baffle to get more cold air into the fridge as it had been running jsut above 40° and dialed the fridge towards 'colder.' This was late this morning and we have used the fridge since, but not in the last 1-2 hours.
If my fridge is no longer capable of cooling as low as recommended, what does that mean? Does the refrigerant need recharged (actually, it'll need to be changed over to whatever the new stuff is, if that's the case)?
I can't feel any cool air leaking out around the gaskets, including the rip in the corner. Apparently, silicone caulk works well for this!
I will report my findings in the morning with 6+ hours of staying closed.
Chris
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Fridge User Lurking at the Threshold
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Posted: Mon May 16th, 2005 07:45 |
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| How does it keep your ice cream in the freezer? If it is hard enough, don't border too much about the measured temp in the freezer. You may have measure the temp within a short period after the defrost cycle.
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exsearsguy Sublime Master of Appliantology
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Posted: Mon May 16th, 2005 07:53 |
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| Chris, try defrosting your fridge one more time,set the controls to mid-point and fire it up.Then go to the store,get apint of your favorite ice cream and a pint of milk. Put in their respective places,then go to bed or a movie or whatever. Next morning check the ice cream and see if it is like mousse,and then a BIG SWIG of milk. If themilk tastes like Bessie the heifer and your ice cream is soft it doesn't matter what your thermometer says.Your box isn't cold if those things take place.
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cdelsig Grasshopper
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Posted: Sat Jun 4th, 2005 06:14 |
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I want to thank everyone on this board for all the help you have given me. My patience has given out and my Whirlpool topmount has been forced to cede control of my kitchen to a shiny new GE side-by-side. The behemoth hulking in my kitchen is cold, damn cold and I'm liking it.
The last time I defrosted the evap coils, it took only 4 days for things to start getting hairy. Had I been a stay-at-home Dad, I could defrost the thing every week, but alas, that is not to be. I couldn't see paying someone $50 to walk into my house, tell me what's wrong and fix it for even more $$ to keep a 15-20 year old fridge. That doesn't even mention the cost of food going bad much faster than normal.
Again, thanks for all the help.
Chris
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Pegi Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology

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Posted: Sat Jun 4th, 2005 07:16 |
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You are welcome. Be sure to buy a long extended warranty on that new G.E ref. You are likely to need it. 
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The Seven Master Appliantologist
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Posted: Sat Jun 4th, 2005 19:09 |
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cdelsig wrote:
I want to thank everyone on this board for all the help you have given me.
Our pleasure!
...a shiny new GE side-by-side. The behemoth hulking in my kitchen is cold, dayyam cold and I'm liking it.
Now you are not listening to our Grand Master about GE!! 
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kdog Sublime Master of Appliantology

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Posted: Sat Jun 4th, 2005 21:20 |
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| uor condolences on the aquiration of a fine g.e. product indeed- see ya real soon!
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