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Sub Zero 532 not cooling enough  Rating:  Rating
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 Posted: Sun Apr 26th, 2009 05:23 pm
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jjbodean1970
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fridge side - its cooling to 42 and thats it, doesnt matter what i set the dial to. got up to 50 one day last week and i moved everything to our spare fridge in the basement, prepared to call local SZ repair shop the next morning when it starting cooling correctly again overnight. wife thought she maybe left it cracked open, but now i am not so sure. a week later and now its back up to the 42 range. thoughts?

thanks!

jeff

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 Posted: Sun Apr 26th, 2009 05:28 pm
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RegUS_PatOff
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no need to start a New Topic on an old problem...

too hard to read past threads to see what was / wasn't done ...

 

 



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 Posted: Sun Apr 26th, 2009 05:32 pm
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jjbodean1970
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disagree, this is a new problem.

old problems:

fan motor replaced several months ago, had cooling issue upon replacement. fixed.

freezer quit cooling a couple months ago - leak in the copper coils in the drain pan, replaced copper coils, recharged freon. fixed.

drain line overflowing into bottom of fresh food side couple months ago due to clog. removed inside back of unit, removed clog. fixed.

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 Posted: Sun Apr 26th, 2009 11:13 pm
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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When was the last time you cleaned the bejeezus out of the condenser coil up top?  Make sure that fan up there is running goodnstrong, too. 



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 Posted: Tue Apr 28th, 2009 12:26 am
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jjbodean1970
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condenser coil was cleaned back in december when the copper loops were replaced as they were quite dirty.

one thing i forgot to mention - you know the suction you get right when you first close the fridge door? i am not getting that suction at all. normally you can hear it and its tough to open the door right after you close it. not anymore.

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 Posted: Tue Apr 28th, 2009 03:38 pm
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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jjbodean1970 wrote: one thing i forgot to mention - you know the suction you get right when you first close the fridge door? i am not getting that suction at all. normally you can hear it and its tough to open the door right after you close it. not anymore.
The suction is caused by the condensate drain being plugged.  With the drain plugged, the low pressure inside the box (because of lower temp) can't equalize with the higher outside pressure so you create a little vacuum inside.  With the drain open, the pressure can equalize and it's all good.  The fact that this has gone away recently is another symptom of your warming box because the ice in the condensate drain melted.  Need to removed the back wall in the fridge side and look at the evaporator.  If poorly frosted, not frosted, or just a glob of frost in a corner, then you may be looking at a sealed system leak. 



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 Posted: Tue Apr 28th, 2009 03:41 pm
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jjbodean1970
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ok, so it sounds like the suction went away actually when i fixed my 3rd problem listed:

drain line overflowing into bottom of fresh food side couple months ago due to clog. removed inside back of unit, removed clog. fixed.

is that correct?

i will remove the inside panel and check it out, thanks

jeff

Last edited on Tue Apr 28th, 2009 03:42 pm by jjbodean1970

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 Posted: Tue Apr 28th, 2009 06:50 pm
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jjbodean1970
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getting ready to remove the panel and there is a nice ice buildup on it already

Attachment: IMG_1538a.jpg (Downloaded 74 times)

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 Posted: Tue Apr 28th, 2009 06:55 pm
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jjbodean1970
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and here is behind the panel, lots of ice, especially on the top left side, its the heaviest. thoughts?

Attachment: IMG_1539a.jpg (Downloaded 76 times)

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 Posted: Tue Apr 28th, 2009 07:10 pm
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jjbodean1970
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defrost timer?

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 Posted: Wed Apr 29th, 2009 04:54 am
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jjbodean1970
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looks like my fridge control is broken.

http://www.repairclinic.com/SSPartDetail.aspx?s=t-4201260-%3d%3di753862&PartID=753862

the metal ends the black wire plugs into has broken off the unit. time to replace? would this be my problem?

thanks,

jeff

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 Posted: Wed Apr 29th, 2009 06:08 am
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denrayr
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looks like its low on gas to me



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 Posted: Wed Apr 29th, 2009 01:05 pm
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jjbodean1970
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with the back panel removed the majority of the ice melted and it started cooling great, down to about 32. so, i decided to button it back up and monitor it. then it started warming up right away, no cooling at all. i think thats when the metal tab snapped off.

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 Posted: Wed Apr 29th, 2009 01:26 pm
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Oh wise Samurai nailed this one. Very very likely a leak in the refrigerator evaporator causing the inconsistent temperatures and coil to frost. Usually suction pressure on the frig side is 16 to 36 PSI, lower than that would indicate a leak. Also the system should not have held a vacuum before the recharge.



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 Posted: Wed Apr 29th, 2009 01:29 pm
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And also no defrost timer for the refrigerator side, it is cycle defrost. System pressure rises on shut down to melt the frost from the coil.



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 Posted: Wed Apr 29th, 2009 07:10 pm
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jjbodean1970
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repair dude is here now, will let you all know the results

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 Posted: Wed Apr 29th, 2009 07:54 pm
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jjbodean1970
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diagnosis:

http://www.repairclinic.com/SSPartDetail.aspx?s=b114a4ei753862&PartID=753862

its to be installed friday, will let you know if that solves it

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 Posted: Wed Apr 29th, 2009 10:09 pm
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denrayr
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i really hope that is all you need but it really looks like a sealed system problem. with the frost blockage in your picture there is very little load on the system and the bottom of the coil should have atleast a thin layer of frost. With the amount of corrosion im pretty sure the leak is in the evaperator. If thats the case i would recommend replacing the evap, heat exchanger, cold control, evap fan, and maybe the compressor.



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 Posted: Wed Apr 29th, 2009 11:47 pm
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jjbodean1970
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i showed the pics to the repair tech and he said that if there was a leak that the frost and ice wouldnt have gone as low on the coils as pictured, maybe only the top 1/4 or so. he bypassed the control module and it started a nice layer of frost halfway down before he un-bypassed it and said he thought the sealed system was ok. i guess we will see.

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 Posted: Wed Apr 29th, 2009 11:55 pm
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denrayr
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hopefully thats all it takes, but you can see the bottom few rows are frost free and dry. with the upper portion encased in frost and ice, there isnt much of a heat load on that portion of the coil so the bottom portion should be frosted. you can also see the frost is denser in the upper left corner where the refrigerant enters the evaperator. Run your finger along the back wall just above the drain pain from one end to the other. do you feel any oily residue?



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