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Maytag dishwasher Model# MDB9150AWB Pumps out only, no wash or fill.

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Posted: Fri Mar 20th, 2009 06:19 pm

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tea642000
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I am currently looking at a Maytag dishwasher Model# MDB9150AWB. I set it to normal wash or any of the other settings and does not fill of wash. It times out like its normally going through the wash cycle and when it get to the drain part of the the cycle the pump turns on. Checked the valve for voltage none. Motor no voltage, Checked the float switch, OK. Looked at the main control board and there are 2 resistors that have gotten hot, brown marks around them on the circuit board. Any help on with this one? :help:

Thanks!

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Tea64

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Posted: Sat Mar 21st, 2009 07:24 pm

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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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Did you do your voltage check at the valve during the fill cycle? If so, and no voltage, see if you're getting voltage to the float switch. If you have voltage there, then you may have something stuck under the float inside the dishwasher.

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Posted: Sat Mar 21st, 2009 11:27 pm

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tea642000
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Samurai, yes I did check voltage to the valve and float switch. There was no voltage to either. I did find a piece of food when I first looked at it, it was stuck under the float not allowing it to drop thought it was going to be a easy call. Not the case...

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Posted: Sun Mar 22nd, 2009 12:57 pm

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Trying to help
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The fact that you are looking at two symptoms both board related point to a bad board. Just remember that this board is load sensing (as well as some other boards in the industry). If you have the wires off the load you are checking (this case the water valve), the board will only pulse voltage out for a split second, not see the load, and then stop. Chances are you will not see it on your meter. If you had the wires on the valve, and no power out of the board to the valve, bad board. The same logic applies with the motor. Sounds like you have yourself a bad board tea642000. What is your serial number??

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Posted: Sun Mar 22nd, 2009 03:39 pm

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tea642000
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Trying to help, thanks for your reply on this one! I believe the serial# starts with a 1. I don't have the paper in front of me, its in the van but I do remember it starting with a 1. If thats not enough, sometimes it is but if not, I will post the number tomorrow(Monday) I have already ordered the new control board because thats what I thought the problem was. Sounds like you do to! Thanks again! :cool:

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Posted: Sat Mar 28th, 2009 04:48 am

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tea642000
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Well, I installed a new control board and latch assembly. Still having same problem. When I check voltage to the float switch one side at a time to ground I get 120volts, together nothing just continuity, same with the water valve :headbang:

I accidentally touched the probe to ground while testing voltage to the float switch and activated the water valve. I need someone to tell me what that means... There is a open some where or a ground problem?

This one is going to be a learning experience when I figure this one out! Damn dish washers!

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Tea64

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Posted: Sat Mar 28th, 2009 05:16 am

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RegUS_PatOff
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The 120v comes from one part of the Door Switch, through the Water Valve and to the Float Switch.

The "ground" comes from the other part of the Door switch, then through the Controller, to "ground" the Float Switch ...

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Posted: Sat Mar 28th, 2009 03:45 pm

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Trying to help
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As Reg pointed out, there is L1 sitting at your valve at all time. The board, is supplying an opposite potential to allow the valve to come on. The valve has no bearing on whether the motor runs. Is the motor running after a few minutes or does it sit there quite. You stated on your earlier posts that the board will time down like it is running but nothing happens, is this still the case? If the pump runs, the door switches have to be working as designed so that rules that out. Check your wiring to the board and to and from the valve. One more thing, try disconnecting your Turbidity sensor which is attached to your motor housing (See Reg's Schematic) and see if it starts up and runs

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Posted: Sat Mar 28th, 2009 03:48 pm

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poily
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have you looked at the harness at door pivot for broken wire? ive had a few of them

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Posted: Sun Mar 29th, 2009 02:56 am

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tea642000
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The timer times down as if its running. When it gets to a certain point the pump turns on to drain out the water, its not the wash pump. So that would tell me the lash assembly is functioning correctly. I hit cancel drain and the pump turn on. If the switches in the latch assembly were not made then the drain pump would not work, Correct? I did inspect the harness for a broken wire but none found, at this point wish I did find one! :spaz:

I will try that Turbidity sensor. If that sensor was bad would it cause a problem like this? I guess when you run into a problem like this, you have to look at it as a learning experience. This site is AWESOME! I have learn alot from the techs on this site. Thanks for the help with this one. Hopefully, Monday I will get this straightened out! I will be putting into the beer fund soon!

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Posted: Sun Mar 29th, 2009 03:06 am

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Trying to help
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Do not replace it for the sake of it!! Unplug it and try the unit to see if it works. I have had a few in the past "Scramble" the board and not allow it to do some functions. Also, what was your serial number and what board did you install in the unit? If the board counts down and the motor runs in drain, the door switches are fine. Your motor has a wash and drain winding. Ohm out your motor. The Main winding is 3 0hms or so and your wash and drain (start windings) are about 7. Do it from the motor with the harness disconnected , then from the board down with the wires on the motor but the wires off the board.

Drain- Blue to Red 7 ohms

Wash- Blue to Gray 7 ohms

Main- Blue to Yellow 3 ohms

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Posted: Mon Mar 30th, 2009 04:15 am

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tea642000
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Trying to Help, The serial# starts like this 1012... The board# I installed was 99002825. I will check the ohm reading on the motor. Will post results... Thanks again! I probably won't be looking at it until Tuesday. Anymore ideas will be appreciated. Take care!

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Posted: Tue Apr 7th, 2009 09:45 pm

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tea642000
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Just an Update on this problem. I am Man enough to admit, I miss it! :tard:

As Poily mentioned it was 3 broken wires hiding in the door panel. I looked the first time and didn't see them. They were Grey, blue and brown. The way they broke made it very hard to see even when I gave them a tug. Reattached and :party:

I am sure the customer was not very impressed but hey, thats the way things go sometimes. Cant make everyone happy now can ya. Thanks for all the responses!

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Posted: Thu Apr 9th, 2009 01:54 pm

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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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Good one! That would make the problem intermittent and very difficult to troubleshoot. Domo for posting the outcome on this one and domo to Poily for pointing you to the wire harness at the door pivot. And congratulations to both of you for your promotions to Master Appliantologist. :cheers:

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