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ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Kitchen Appliance Repair Forum > Fisher Paykel Dish Drawer DD206 |
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ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Kitchen Appliance Repair Forum > Fisher Paykel Dish Drawer DD206 |
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| Fisher Paykel Dish Drawer DD206 | Rate Topic |
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| Posted: Thu Jul 21st, 2005 12:10 am |
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1st Post |
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Babo Grasshopper
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For the second time in its three year life, our Fisher Paykel DD206 needs a new top drawer gasket. The first time it became punctured, I believe that the replacemnt cost us something like $ 250.00 to get installed. "Someone" in our house did it again! I was able to patch the puncture with some superglue and an inflatable raft patch. It held for about six months, but just recently failed. How do I replace the gasket? 
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| Posted: Thu Jul 21st, 2005 12:39 am |
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2nd Post |
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APPLIANCE-ASSASSIN Master Appliantologist
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The easiest way is to remove the drawer. You would have to remove the front panel, disconnect wiring to the board, release the bottom cover of the drawer, then remove drawer slightly to the side. The hose fits right up at the top in a little channel. That part is easy. It just pulls right out and pushes right back in. The part you remove the drawer for is the connection for the tubing. Just remove the hose at connector and plug new one in
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| Posted: Thu Jul 21st, 2005 05:39 am |
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3rd Post |
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ethicalfix Sublime Master of Appliantology
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if it is the top drawer that has the problem you can do it without disconnecting the drawer.Take the front panel off then with the drawer open lift the front and push the rails underneat back so the front of the drawer drops down. You can then remove the lid assembly by disconnecting the air tube at the rear left of the cavity and unclipping the lid at the front. Once removed it is very easy to replace the lid seal. Reassembly is simply reversing the process. The part number for the lid seal in NZ is 525878 so I expect it is probably the same elsewhere. If it is the bottom drawer then sadly you will find it takes longer but is best to remove the drawer and then take the lid out. Last edited on Thu Jul 21st, 2005 05:42 am by ethicalfix ____________________ Remember the simple things. |
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| Posted: Thu Jul 21st, 2005 07:45 pm |
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4th Post |
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Kiwi-nadian Sublime Master of Appliantology 
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Try this thread http://applianceguru.com/forum1/1208.html , It explains drawer switch replacement, but shows how to take both drawers out.
____________________ please help us to help you, http://www.fixitnow.com/beerfund.htm |
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| Posted: Mon Aug 1st, 2005 08:59 pm |
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5th Post |
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Babo Grasshopper
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Excellent! I have now became a master at removing the top drawer. I've replaced the gasket and it now pumps-up quickly and with vigor! Now my next issue: I keep getting U2 (drawer limit switch)errors on this drawer. Ive inspected the switch and it appears fine. Any suggestions?
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| Posted: Tue Aug 2nd, 2005 12:40 am |
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6th Post |
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ApplianceTerminator Sublime Master of Appliantology 
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Dont blame the F&p crew you know ya sliced it LOL ..... F&P did make a better model the dd603 ... just be very careful with what sticks up and put the cutlery face down .... It saves MONEY !!! Good Luck
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| Posted: Tue Aug 2nd, 2005 07:56 am |
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7th Post |
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ethicalfix Sublime Master of Appliantology
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U2 indicates the drawer is being opened during operation. Number of things you can check here. Firstly is the drawer going home fully when you close it. If not check that the harness/hose linkage has not separated in the middle. Next remove the front cover again and locate the right hand harness plug fitting to the bottom of the grey controller R/H front of drawer. On the drawer it will tell you which wires go where. Check the rail or tub switch with the drawer closed to see if you have a circut. If not first place to go is the switch . You say you checked this so next place is to check the wires for a possible break at the base of the link arm. Have seen a lot of the wires break there with the flexing. We also had an issue with the actual switch as well. Lot of the metal levers breaking off. Try these first and let us know how you get on.
____________________ Remember the simple things. |
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| Posted: Tue Aug 2nd, 2005 12:47 pm |
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8th Post |
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Moostafa The Ayatollah of Appliantology 
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Hello, my dyslexic friend. I am not familiar with the DD206... perhaps you meant to type DD602? Ah, yes, in that case, this enlightening tome from our nearly-sober leader, Samurai Appliance Repair Man, will enlighten you on the issue of which our dear friend, Ethicalfix, speaks. Last edited on Tue Aug 2nd, 2005 12:47 pm by Moostafa ____________________ Allahu Akbar! Moostafa |
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| Posted: Tue Aug 2nd, 2005 06:11 pm |
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9th Post |
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Babo Grasshopper
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Moostafa wrote:Hello, my dyslexic friend. I am not familiar with the DD206... perhaps you meant to type DD602? Ah, yes, in that case, this enlightening tome from our nearly-sober leader, Samurai Appliance Repair Man, will enlighten you on the issue of which our dear friend, Ethicalfix, speaks. Yes, I meant DD602! I'm dyslexic very 
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| Posted: Tue Aug 2nd, 2005 06:25 pm |
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10th Post |
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Babo Grasshopper
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ethicalfix wrote:U2 indicates the drawer is being opened during operation. Number of things you can check here. Firstly is the drawer going home fully when you close it. If not check that the harness/hose linkage has not separated in the middle. Next remove the front cover again and locate the right hand harness plug fitting to the bottom of the grey controller R/H front of drawer. On the drawer it will tell you which wires go where. Check the rail or tub switch with the drawer closed to see if you have a circut. If not first place to go is the switch . You say you checked this so next place is to check the wires for a possible break at the base of the link arm. Have seen a lot of the wires break there with the flexing. We also had an issue with the actual switch as well. Lot of the metal levers breaking off. Excellent! PS - If you can't help me I'm gonna start one of these in Boston! http://www.appliancetoss.com/
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| Posted: Wed Aug 3rd, 2005 07:13 pm |
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11th Post |
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Babo Grasshopper
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I checked all of the above - curcuit, switch actuation, looked for frayed wires, and found no problems. I did experiment some. While the unit was running with the drawer cover off, I pulled the left rail out only about 1/8th", and the U2 error came on immediatly. Does this indicate that the switch is bad? Last edited on Wed Aug 3rd, 2005 07:14 pm by Babo |
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| Posted: Wed Aug 3rd, 2005 07:20 pm |
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12th Post |
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Kiwi-nadian Sublime Master of Appliantology
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Yes, they do corrode over time, and also the striker on the switch can warp.
____________________ please help us to help you, http://www.fixitnow.com/beerfund.htm |
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| Current time is 08:54 pm | |
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