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- > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Kitchen Appliance Repair Forum > GE Monogram Model ZISB42DYB warm beer cooler/cold freezer

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GE Monogram Model ZISB42DYB warm beer cooler/cold freezer  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Thu Feb 19th, 2009 11:46 am
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Joes Toy
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Hey guys, I know my problem seams to be no uncommon occurrence but I couldn't find any posts that diagnose my particular refrigerator plus I felt like donating to the good Samurai's beer fund was a worth while donation :D

THE PATIENT







THE STORY
After reading up on the faqs and the "Warm Fridge Fire Drill" I began hoping that too many dust bunny had finally made their home in my kitchen and slowed down the cooling so I got to exterminating and blew the coils out with a compressor.

After reading the "Fire Drill",  choking on some dust and a 24 hour wait I opened the refrigerator in hopes so find icy cold milk but instead was hit with the same "food getting warm" odor and warm milk...

After closing the door in disappointment I waited and realized there was no sound of a fan or vacuum starting up but just a sad silence...  So I tried the freezer, after inspecting the nice cool temperature I closed the door and immediately the fan and vacuum kicked on.

One more strange occurrence to add to this would be after inspecting the freezer compartment (haven't removed and panels just yet) I noticed that the newer ice cubes (top of the ice box) had a lot less air trapped in them (possibly freezing slower?).  I don't know if that helps any with diagnosing a problem but I felt it worth mentioning.  (New ice on left)



Please Samurai enlighten the poor grasshopper on why his milk is getting warm.

Thanks for your time everyone.

Last edited on Thu Feb 19th, 2009 11:51 am by Joes Toy

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 Posted: Thu Feb 19th, 2009 11:51 am
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RegUS_PatOff
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Is the Compressor running ?

Is the Condenser Fan (near Compressor) running ?

Is the Evaporator Fan (Freezer) running ?

If you could post a picture of the Evaporator Coils (behind wall in Freezer)

 



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 Posted: Thu Feb 19th, 2009 11:59 am
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Joes Toy
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Wow that was wicked fast Moderating!  I'll get some pics right now.

1. The compressor (black sphere in third picture?) is vibrating and warm so yes.
2. The fan right behind the Compressor is blowing out air (Sucking air threw the fins)
3. Haven't heard or seen the evaporator fan. I'll pull the panels to expose the coils right now and I'll look for the fan..

Looks like I'm not the only one who can't sleep. ;)

Last edited on Thu Feb 19th, 2009 12:37 pm by Joes Toy

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 Posted: Thu Feb 19th, 2009 01:26 pm
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Joes Toy
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RegUS_PatOff wrote: Is the Compressor running ?

Is the Condenser Fan (near Compressor) running ?

Is the Evaporator Fan (Freezer) running ?

If you could post a picture of the Evaporator Coils (behind wall in Freezer)

 

Ok RegUs PatOff here's the results.

The Evap Fan is working.

And here is your picture of the Evap.





Given that this thing is completely iced over what do you think it could be? I know generally the components will be working overtime to cool things down when the Evap. gets this frosty but will a simple thaw fix my problem (even though the freezer is staying plenty cold)?

Do you think I should be concerned that some of the Styrofoam (3rd pic) next to the exap. is looking slightly melted... :P

I managed to get the stupid baffle evap foam out in almost 1 piece, should I worry about the broken corner?



I have to go to work at 7 but I'll be keeping an eye on the thread all day to answer any questions.  Thanks for taking a look.  I hope to become knowledgeable enough about this stuff that I don't have to call the serviceman out.

-Joe-

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 Posted: Thu Feb 19th, 2009 03:19 pm
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RegUS_PatOff
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Looks like a Defrost problem.

I don't have any info on the ZIS series.. but I'll do some more looking ...

Defrost Timer # 257

 


 

Defrost Heater # 15

Defrost Thermostat (Teminator) # 12 (first thing to check)



 

Last edited on Thu Feb 19th, 2009 03:32 pm by RegUS_PatOff



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 Posted: Thu Feb 19th, 2009 03:26 pm
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You obviously have a defrost problem. Find the timer somewhere close to the back near the condenser. Turn the one awy know till it goes into defrost. Should turn on the heater below the coil to defroest. Either you have a bad timer, thermostat or heater. Check the heater for burnt spots in the glass. Usually means its bad.



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 Posted: Thu Feb 19th, 2009 03:32 pm
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DoctorGoz

 

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Sorry this seems to be a metal defrost heater and they dont go bad too often.That would leave the defrost terminATor or the timer the culprit.



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 Posted: Thu Feb 19th, 2009 07:06 pm
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Joes Toy
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Ok the defrost terminator or the defrost timer.  Great! Haha, how does one check these for failure?  I have a digital voltmeter, can I test the resistance on them?

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 Posted: Thu Feb 19th, 2009 07:21 pm
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Joes Toy
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Ok I see:

Option 1 (Defrost Timer): http://www.repairclinic.com/Appliance-Parts?s=t-WR9X587%20-%3d%3d

Option 2 (Defrost Thermostat): http://www.repairclinic.com/Appliance-Parts?s=t-WR50X45%20-%3d%3d

Both in stock and under $100!!!  Party! :party:

So guys should I just think about ordering both or is there a way you would recommend I test one.  I'm completely ok with getting both parts if you all think this could fix the fridge.  I'll await further instructions :)

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 Posted: Thu Feb 19th, 2009 07:36 pm
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OHM meter on the Defrost Thermostat (switch closed when COLD)

Voltmeter on the Defrost Timer ... OR OHM meter if power is disconnected...



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 Posted: Thu Feb 19th, 2009 09:08 pm
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Joes Toy
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Ok I've just been googling to try and educate myself on how a OHM meter is supose to work.  I'm good with mechanical devices. Circuits confuse me... 

What resistance (I think that's the term) should I be looking for?

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 Posted: Thu Feb 19th, 2009 09:46 pm
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Defrost Themostat is a switch...

0 OHMS when cold.

infinite OHMS when open (warm)



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 Posted: Thu Feb 19th, 2009 11:35 pm
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I think the thermostat is here. melt the frost around it and inspect it. usually when they go bad the plastic cap bulges up

Attachment: DEFROST.JPG (Downloaded 65 times)



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 Posted: Fri Feb 20th, 2009 11:35 am
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Budget Appliance Repair
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I've never worked on one of these models but, what appears to me to be the defrost terminator is on the bottom of the picture, (I can't really tell the orientation of that picture).


Attachment: EvapPic.JPG (Downloaded 63 times)



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 Posted: Fri Feb 20th, 2009 11:55 am
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Joes Toy
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Hey guys I just got home so I haven't tested anything yet but I wanted to take a couple pictures of the defrosted coils and show them in a way that helps orient better. 






Does this help?  I'll post up the OHM results in the morning.  I need some sleep :P

Thanks for the support so far!  Its a special thing to be able to get so much help from people all over the country.

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 Posted: Fri Feb 20th, 2009 01:11 pm
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From the last picture, what I circled in the frozen evaporator picture was the defrost terminator.  It appears there are two of them, I only see one in the parts breakdown picture posted.

And, now that everything is defrosted, you aren't going to be able to test them unless the ends are all bulging out.  In the defrosted state they will show as open circuit.  You will need to let them freeze again to test to see if they close when they are cold, (below 20 degrees at least).

Last edited on Fri Feb 20th, 2009 01:13 pm by Budget Appliance Repair



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 Posted: Fri Feb 20th, 2009 10:36 pm
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Budget Appliance Repair wrote: From the last picture, what I circled in the frozen evaporator picture was the defrost terminator.  It appears there are two of them, I only see one in the parts breakdown picture posted.

And, now that everything is defrosted, you aren't going to be able to test them unless the ends are all bulging out.  In the defrosted state they will show as open circuit.  You will need to let them freeze again to test to see if they close when they are cold, (below 20 degrees at least).


I had planned on removing the defrost terminators and putting them in my chest freezer for a couple hours to test them.  I noticed that indeed there is two (?) should I pull them both off and test them?  Am I ok to cut the wire to take them off and splice it later?  I'll have to cut the wires to test them anyway correct?

Last edited on Fri Feb 20th, 2009 10:48 pm by Joes Toy

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 Posted: Fri Feb 20th, 2009 10:47 pm
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Joes Toy
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Here's some better pictures of the Terminators per some fancy mirror shots.





Caps don't look bulged so I guess I'm going to have to test them... Now how to get those suckers out of there..?

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 Posted: Sat Feb 21st, 2009 10:46 am
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Yes, to get them out and test you will need to cut the wires and splice them or the new ones back in, using silcone on the splice connectors to keep moisture out, (follow the wiring from the terminators and see if maybe they have a plug on the other end so you don't have to to cut the wires -- they problably don't).

No obvious signs of frozen/bulging caps, to remove them for the plate they are attached to, I believe if you sqeeze the clamp that goes over the top it will pop the clips out of the plate they are attached to.

I don't know way they have two defrost terminators, like I said, I've never worked on one of these models before.



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 Posted: Mon Feb 23rd, 2009 12:12 pm
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Joes Toy
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Ok guys little update. I've cut out the terminators and tested them both warm and cold.  Both are open when cold and closed when warm so those check out.  So it sounds like it has to be the timer right? I'm a little confused When regUS_PatOff suggested I use a voltmeter to test the timer because there's four different lead coming off of the unit.  Could someone explain which terminals should show what?
In the pictures below you can see theres a darker area next to one of the terminals.  Is that a sign that the timer has maybe overheated?  I'm ready for cold drinks again :D  Whats the next step?






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