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- > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Kitchen Appliance Repair Forum > S/S Frigidaire Gallery FRS20ZSH refrigerator is warm all of a sudden! WTF!

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S/S Frigidaire Gallery FRS20ZSH refrigerator is warm all of a sudden! WTF!  Rating:  Rating
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 Posted: Tue Feb 24th, 2009 04:37 pm
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alexeinspruch
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They charge $40 to walk in the door, plus $100/hr. Parts, and tax are extra of course.



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 Posted: Tue Feb 24th, 2009 04:48 pm
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DoctorGoz

 

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Your defrost seems to be a mechanical timer at the bottom left front of the refrigerator behind tyhe kickplate. TURN THE ONEWAY knob on the timer till it goes into defrost. heater should go on if thernmostat is good. If not wire around to test, put wires together but dont leave it that way . It supposed to shut the heater off at about 55 degrees.



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 Posted: Tue Feb 24th, 2009 04:51 pm
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alexeinspruch
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Yeah, I was not sure if I could turn it without removing it. I removed the kickplate, and turned it clockwise with a screwdriver until it clicked. Everything on the freezer side, turned off immediately. I put a thermometer in there to see what the temp does.



Goz- did you see where I tested the thermostat with a multimeter in my posts above?

Last edited on Tue Feb 24th, 2009 04:59 pm by alexeinspruch



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 Posted: Tue Feb 24th, 2009 04:53 pm
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DoctorGoz

 

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Thats ridiculous!!! $40 to bait you and 100 for repair. How far do they have to travel. I charge $1 a mile one way after i leave the town. I think you can get thermostat off of ebay at about $20 or less.I sell them for around $20 good profit!!!!!:groucho:



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 Posted: Tue Feb 24th, 2009 04:56 pm
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DoctorGoz

 

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If you got no tone from your meter then the thermostat is bad if good and cold.



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 Posted: Tue Feb 24th, 2009 05:03 pm
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alexeinspruch
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Freezer is 28F.



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 Posted: Tue Feb 24th, 2009 05:09 pm
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alexeinspruch wrote: Yes zero ohms indicated on my multimeter when I tried the resistance test on wires from the thermostat (both ways), unless I did it wrong somehow. It was PLENTY cold. I then tried a continuity test and got no tone from the multimeter, which was also tried both ways. I am now confused. The multimeter I have is kinda overkill and way short on instructions, but I think I am using it properly.

Try again (when cold), if there was zero OHMS, then it should beep during continuity test ...



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 Posted: Tue Feb 24th, 2009 06:59 pm
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alexeinspruch
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No beep. So walk me through the resistance test then. There's a red and a white wire coming from the thermostat. Set multimeter to ohms and Range, but I'm not sure where to go from here. I tried connecting both ways and no reading. Continuity yielded no tone either way wires were connceted.

Last edited on Tue Feb 24th, 2009 08:14 pm by alexeinspruch



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 Posted: Tue Feb 24th, 2009 07:02 pm
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alexeinspruch wrote:  I tried connecting both ways and no reading....

define "no reading"

0 OHMS or Flashing 1.xxx (digital), or no meter movent (analog)  ?

Last edited on Tue Feb 24th, 2009 07:02 pm by RegUS_PatOff



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 Posted: Tue Feb 24th, 2009 08:16 pm
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alexeinspruch
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0 digital meter.



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 Posted: Tue Feb 24th, 2009 08:20 pm
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alexeinspruch wrote: 0 digital meter.
Then it should be good, and beep with continuity....



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 Posted: Tue Feb 24th, 2009 09:16 pm
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alexeinspruch
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No beep. So if the resistance is registering as a numerical value the thermostat is bad? Again, I am a newb here. I also can't tell if the timer moved at all today, as I reset it this morning to test it (see above). I put a mark in permanent marker on the timer and on the switch body to see if it's moving.....

Last edited on Tue Feb 24th, 2009 10:20 pm by alexeinspruch



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 Posted: Tue Feb 24th, 2009 11:21 pm
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alexeinspruch
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UPDATE: timer is definitely moving. Woohoo. So it's the defrost thermostat then?

Last edited on Tue Feb 24th, 2009 11:21 pm by alexeinspruch



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 Posted: Wed Feb 25th, 2009 03:32 am
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The Timer could move, but doesn't mean the Contacts are working ...



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 Posted: Wed Feb 25th, 2009 03:36 am
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alexeinspruch
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Temp has not moved in the fridge all day, if that helps. I may have to post a video of me using the damn m-meter! I think I should I just replace the thermostat and see what happens.....they are so cheap.

Last edited on Wed Feb 25th, 2009 03:56 am by alexeinspruch



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 Posted: Thu Feb 26th, 2009 12:53 am
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alexeinspruch
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Thermostat ordered! Looks like I might need to defrost the coils again....totally iced up again, but temp isn't rising yet.



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 Posted: Thu Feb 26th, 2009 04:06 am
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BrntToast
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easy defrost thermostat test, join the 2 wires that go to the therm,bypassing it .... with the fridge unplugged!!!!

now advance the timer to defrost, wait a few minutes and if the heater glows red now, then the dts thermostat is defective.(you have safely secured those 2 wires and have plugged the fridge back in by now)

do NOT leave the heater on with the thermostat bypassed for too long!!!

the plastic fridge liner can overheat and warp or worse.. melt

also verify the timer is indeed advancing(defrost lasts 25 minutes(again, dont melt your fridge.. disconnect the jumped wires and make sure fridge comes out of defrost and starts up))

if the heater still does not glow after the dts is bypassed you know there is a problem elsewhere... either the heater itself or the timer

i think i missed a unplug now.. step in there somewhere, so..... dont touch live wires then whine... brnt told me too.



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 Posted: Thu Feb 26th, 2009 04:32 am
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alexeinspruch
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One, I must find said heater to observe glowing, two timer is advancing......



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 Posted: Thu Mar 5th, 2009 06:25 pm
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alexeinspruch
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Thermostat is in, but unsure of connections....new thermo has same colored wires coming out of it!



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 Posted: Fri Dec 18th, 2009 02:03 pm
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smoe
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I have this same issue with my fridge and after a couple of repair guys have been through it and the issues persisted, I followed some of the info found in this thread. My initial issue was that it was icing up and the fridge would get warm. I bypassed the defrost thermostat switch, turned the timer to defrost and the coils glowed red. I then replaced the dts, and now the issue (and this seems to be the 'other' side to my ongoing issue with this fridge) is that the coils seem to be always warm, not glowing but hot enough to warm the fridge up so the freezer runs at about refrigerator temp and the refrigerator side runs a touch below room temp. Should I look at replacing the timer next?

I reside in Mexico and the replacement part(s) aren't original equipment, not sure if this might be causing any problems...

Thanks for any suggestions.

Last edited on Fri Dec 18th, 2009 03:24 pm by smoe

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