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LG LDS5811WW Diswasher problem but not throwing codes  Rating:  Rating
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 Posted: Mon Feb 9th, 2009 05:09 am
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When you get your  meter, check the thermister....11-14k ohms.........@ 77deg. f........It could be sensing incorrectly,  advance time is on hold till the temp. reaches 140 deg.... (avg. wash temp.)

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 Posted: Mon Feb 9th, 2009 11:59 pm
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domer2k9
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Thermister 10.78 ohms at room temp (approx. 70 deg.)

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 Posted: Tue Feb 10th, 2009 12:08 am
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domer2k9
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Inlet valve 1178 ohms

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 Posted: Tue Feb 10th, 2009 12:12 am
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domer2k9
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Anything else while I have the front apart....Wife wants to call a tech...lol

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 Posted: Tue Feb 10th, 2009 12:53 am
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DW runs ok for first two minutes...and then timer goes into super slow motion.  I've increased water temp at water heater.  What next?

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 Posted: Tue Feb 10th, 2009 01:49 am
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does your meter have an amp clamp? clamp it around the orange or brown wire to see if the heater is drawing power.



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 Posted: Tue Feb 10th, 2009 01:56 am
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domer2k9
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no amp clamp...I can try and get one tomorrow...not sure though
Is there an immediate call for heat?  I guess I can rig up the ammeter the old fashioned way.

Last edited on Tue Feb 10th, 2009 01:57 am by domer2k9

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 Posted: Tue Feb 10th, 2009 02:32 am
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After initial pump out it looks like heater is drawing about 62mA for a little over a minute.  It then goes down to about 3-4mA for a bit and then up around 25mA for a shorter period.  Sound about right?

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 Posted: Tue Feb 10th, 2009 06:02 am
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domer2k9 wrote: After initial pump out it looks like heater is drawing about 62mA for a little over a minute.  It then goes down to about 3-4mA for a bit and then up around 25mA for a shorter period.  Sound about right?

no, im not sure what the amp draw is on the heater but mA is definately too low. i would expect to see atleast 6 amps. look at the wiring on the lower part of the inner door panel. does it look like it got stuck at some point in the tar like insulation? they have had a ton of problems with this.



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 Posted: Tue Feb 10th, 2009 11:11 am
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domer2k9
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Thought that was too low for a heater but not up on all the modern electronics.  Will trace wiring after work.

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 Posted: Tue Feb 10th, 2009 11:41 pm
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domer2k9
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No damaged wires found...Seems I have two org. wires going to heater.  I put the amp clamp on each one seperately right before they make the turn to go under the machine...They both fluctuate and only get to a peak of 3.5A but not for long.  It seems they reach that point when the DW is at it's loudest.  After having the unit run for about 15 min. the inside is not even reading 100 on the meat therm...It's not hot and steamy when I open the door at all.

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 Posted: Wed Feb 11th, 2009 12:14 am
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domer2k9
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Any poss. similarities between Bosch and LG????

http://fixitnow.com/wp/2006/06/09/bosch-dishwasher-takes-forever-to-complete-a-cycle/

given the lower than expected current draw of the heating element along with the fluctuations(should it fluctuate constantly???)  I think I'll look for a bad solder joint or connection

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 Posted: Wed Feb 11th, 2009 03:23 am
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domer2k9 wrote: ... I think I'll look for a bad solder joint or connection



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 Posted: Wed Feb 11th, 2009 04:56 am
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it will be hard to look for a bad solder joint becaus the board is sealed into a plastic casing with a rubber material. you should check for voltage between the orange and brown wires at the board. click on the service manual link reg posted and program the dw to activate the heater.



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 Posted: Wed Feb 11th, 2009 11:13 am
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domer2k9
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lol...so much for finding a bad solder joint on that board...Do I have to put water in DW to run diag.?  or just press buttons to get to that point?  The more research I do on this darn thing the more I realize how lousy LG's have the potential to be..UGH!  Any, I really appreciate all the help you're giving...hopefully this will help someone in the future!  I'll check voltage after work.

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 Posted: Wed Feb 11th, 2009 05:26 pm
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it would be good to have water in the machine just in case it decides to heat. in the diagnostics select the fill cycle. once it has filled then select the heater test



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 Posted: Thu Feb 12th, 2009 11:55 pm
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Last edited on Sat Feb 14th, 2009 05:55 pm by domer2k9

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 Posted: Fri Feb 13th, 2009 04:53 am
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not getting hot as in no heat from the heater or no voltage from the wires i pointed out? its the red 2 wire connector at the board, test between brown and orange. according to the diagram there is a heater switch, 2 fuses, and the heater itself that could be at fault besides the control.



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 Posted: Fri Feb 13th, 2009 05:04 am
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I looked thru the previous posts, have you ran a diagnostic test on this unit yet? It will tell you if the water level is correct and check the current draw for the heater..... keep us posted....

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 Posted: Fri Feb 13th, 2009 11:09 am
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domer2k9
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I'll check that stuff Saturday and let you know.

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