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ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Kitchen Appliance Repair Forum > LG LDS5811WW Diswasher problem but not throwing codes |
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| LG LDS5811WW Diswasher problem but not throwing codes | Rate Topic |
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| Posted: Mon Feb 9th, 2009 04:09 am |
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21st Post |
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certified tech group 51 Sublime Master of Appliantology 
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When you get your meter, check the thermister....11-14k ohms.........@ 77deg. f........It could be sensing incorrectly, advance time is on hold till the temp. reaches 140 deg.... (avg. wash temp.)
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| Posted: Mon Feb 9th, 2009 10:59 pm |
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22nd Post |
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domer2k9 Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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Thermister 10.78 ohms at room temp (approx. 70 deg.)
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| Posted: Mon Feb 9th, 2009 11:08 pm |
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23rd Post |
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domer2k9 Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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Inlet valve 1178 ohms
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| Posted: Mon Feb 9th, 2009 11:12 pm |
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24th Post |
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domer2k9 Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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Anything else while I have the front apart....Wife wants to call a tech...lol
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| Posted: Mon Feb 9th, 2009 11:53 pm |
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25th Post |
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domer2k9 Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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DW runs ok for first two minutes...and then timer goes into super slow motion. I've increased water temp at water heater. What next?
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| Posted: Tue Feb 10th, 2009 12:49 am |
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26th Post |
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denrayr Sublime Master of Appliantology 
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does your meter have an amp clamp? clamp it around the orange or brown wire to see if the heater is drawing power.
____________________ RedRock Appliance Service 435-773-7838 http://www.redrockrepair.com Serving St George and Southern Utah |
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| Posted: Tue Feb 10th, 2009 12:56 am |
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27th Post |
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domer2k9 Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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no amp clamp...I can try and get one tomorrow...not sure though Is there an immediate call for heat? I guess I can rig up the ammeter the old fashioned way. Last edited on Tue Feb 10th, 2009 12:57 am by domer2k9 |
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| Posted: Tue Feb 10th, 2009 01:32 am |
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28th Post |
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domer2k9 Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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After initial pump out it looks like heater is drawing about 62mA for a little over a minute. It then goes down to about 3-4mA for a bit and then up around 25mA for a shorter period. Sound about right?
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| Posted: Tue Feb 10th, 2009 05:02 am |
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29th Post |
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denrayr Sublime Master of Appliantology
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domer2k9 wrote: After initial pump out it looks like heater is drawing about 62mA for a little over a minute. It then goes down to about 3-4mA for a bit and then up around 25mA for a shorter period. Sound about right? no, im not sure what the amp draw is on the heater but mA is definately too low. i would expect to see atleast 6 amps. look at the wiring on the lower part of the inner door panel. does it look like it got stuck at some point in the tar like insulation? they have had a ton of problems with this.
____________________ RedRock Appliance Service 435-773-7838 http://www.redrockrepair.com Serving St George and Southern Utah |
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| Posted: Tue Feb 10th, 2009 10:11 am |
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30th Post |
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domer2k9 Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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Thought that was too low for a heater but not up on all the modern electronics. Will trace wiring after work.
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| Posted: Tue Feb 10th, 2009 10:41 pm |
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31st Post |
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domer2k9 Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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No damaged wires found...Seems I have two org. wires going to heater. I put the amp clamp on each one seperately right before they make the turn to go under the machine...They both fluctuate and only get to a peak of 3.5A but not for long. It seems they reach that point when the DW is at it's loudest. After having the unit run for about 15 min. the inside is not even reading 100 on the meat therm...It's not hot and steamy when I open the door at all.
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| Posted: Tue Feb 10th, 2009 11:14 pm |
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32nd Post |
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domer2k9 Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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Any poss. similarities between Bosch and LG???? http://fixitnow.com/wp/2006/06/09/bosch-dishwasher-takes-forever-to-complete-a-cycle/ given the lower than expected current draw of the heating element along with the fluctuations(should it fluctuate constantly???) I think I'll look for a bad solder joint or connection
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| Posted: Wed Feb 11th, 2009 02:23 am |
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33rd Post |
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RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology 
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domer2k9 wrote: ... I think I'll look for a bad solder joint or connection
____________________ RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw my video production: “Easter Seals Walk With Me” (also in HQ) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EBiLyYXMiA Upon leaving this Earth "Do you want the Smoking or Non-Smoking section ?" |
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| Posted: Wed Feb 11th, 2009 03:56 am |
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34th Post |
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denrayr Sublime Master of Appliantology
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it will be hard to look for a bad solder joint becaus the board is sealed into a plastic casing with a rubber material. you should check for voltage between the orange and brown wires at the board. click on the service manual link reg posted and program the dw to activate the heater.
____________________ RedRock Appliance Service 435-773-7838 http://www.redrockrepair.com Serving St George and Southern Utah |
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| Posted: Wed Feb 11th, 2009 10:13 am |
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35th Post |
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domer2k9 Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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lol...so much for finding a bad solder joint on that board...Do I have to put water in DW to run diag.? or just press buttons to get to that point? The more research I do on this darn thing the more I realize how lousy LG's have the potential to be..UGH! Any, I really appreciate all the help you're giving...hopefully this will help someone in the future! I'll check voltage after work.
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| Posted: Wed Feb 11th, 2009 04:26 pm |
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36th Post |
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denrayr Sublime Master of Appliantology
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it would be good to have water in the machine just in case it decides to heat. in the diagnostics select the fill cycle. once it has filled then select the heater test
____________________ RedRock Appliance Service 435-773-7838 http://www.redrockrepair.com Serving St George and Southern Utah |
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| Posted: Thu Feb 12th, 2009 10:55 pm |
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37th Post |
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domer2k9 Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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Last edited on Sat Feb 14th, 2009 04:55 pm by domer2k9 |
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| Posted: Fri Feb 13th, 2009 03:53 am |
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38th Post |
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denrayr Sublime Master of Appliantology
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not getting hot as in no heat from the heater or no voltage from the wires i pointed out? its the red 2 wire connector at the board, test between brown and orange. according to the diagram there is a heater switch, 2 fuses, and the heater itself that could be at fault besides the control.
____________________ RedRock Appliance Service 435-773-7838 http://www.redrockrepair.com Serving St George and Southern Utah |
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| Posted: Fri Feb 13th, 2009 04:04 am |
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39th Post |
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certified tech group 51 Sublime Master of Appliantology
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I looked thru the previous posts, have you ran a diagnostic test on this unit yet? It will tell you if the water level is correct and check the current draw for the heater..... keep us posted....
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| Posted: Fri Feb 13th, 2009 10:09 am |
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40th Post |
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domer2k9 Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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I'll check that stuff Saturday and let you know.
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| ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Kitchen Appliance Repair Forum > LG LDS5811WW Diswasher problem but not throwing codes | Top |
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