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sears gas range, model 362.75980891  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Sat Jan 31st, 2009 07:37 pm
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donalda
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I heard a pop sound, breaker tripped.  After resetting breaker, burners worked but oven & broiler did not work.  Opened panel display and looked for signs of burned wire but didn't see anything amiss.

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 Posted: Sat Jan 31st, 2009 07:55 pm
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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I'm suspecting an element blowout.



Start by killing power to the range and inspecting each element carefully with a flashlight. Then you'll graduate to ohm tests.

Last edited on Mon Feb 2nd, 2009 04:34 am by Samurai Appliance Repair Man



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 Posted: Sat Jan 31st, 2009 08:06 pm
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RegUS_PatOff
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man wrote: I'm suspecting an element blowout...
maybe a little too much Kirin Ichiban (or not enough) :)

.... looking for more info on the GE Roper Kenmore 362.75980891 Gas Oven...


Were you using the Oven at the time ?

 

Last edited on Sat Jan 31st, 2009 08:27 pm by RegUS_PatOff



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 Posted: Sat Jan 31st, 2009 08:10 pm
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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Ahh, gas range, domo for the gentle reminder, Sublime Master Reg.

Definitely not enough Kirin. :java:

OK, donalda, let's get back on track. Do you have the wiring diagram/tech sheet and a multi-meter?



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 Posted: Sat Jan 31st, 2009 08:34 pm
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donalda
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Yes I have wiring diagram and multi meter. I believe the oven was on. We had just taken dinner out of oven.

 

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 Posted: Sat Jan 31st, 2009 08:38 pm
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RegUS_PatOff
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The Oven Ignitor may have broken and shorted to the Oven.

If you could do some resistance (OHMS) tests.

The Ignitor should read somewhere 40 OHMS to 400 OHMS.

If you could scan and upload the wiring diagram, that may help.  (200k MAX)

 



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 Posted: Sat Jan 31st, 2009 09:09 pm
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donalda
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igniter looks good and continuity checks ok.

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 Posted: Sat Jan 31st, 2009 09:35 pm
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donalda
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the little handle that turns the gas on/off valve came off the valve. Any ideas, other than taking valve out, that would help in getting the handle back on the valve?

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 Posted: Sat Jan 31st, 2009 10:21 pm
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donalda
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forget about the gas valve question. Stuck a pencil eraser in the other end and pushed valve out enough to hook handle back on.

Just got valve back on, reinsstalled igniter and tried to light oven. Igniter didn't heat up on either oven or broiler. Burners work ok.

How do we test the erc control to determine whether that is the pop sound and the breaker tripping?

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 Posted: Sat Jan 31st, 2009 10:32 pm
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RegUS_PatOff
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I don't know untill (if) I can find a Wiring Diagram/Tech Sheet for that model ...



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 Posted: Sat Jan 31st, 2009 11:09 pm
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donalda
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We have a wiring diagram.

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 Posted: Sat Jan 31st, 2009 11:31 pm
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donalda
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Can fax wiring diagram.

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 Posted: Sat Jan 31st, 2009 11:51 pm
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RegUS_PatOff
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could post it here if 200k MAX or scan & email

Last edited on Sun Feb 1st, 2009 01:04 am by RegUS_PatOff



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 Posted: Sun Feb 1st, 2009 12:36 am
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donalda
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I understand we could remove the ERC control and take it to a parts store to be tested to see if the ERC for oven & broiler is defective.

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 Posted: Sun Feb 1st, 2009 12:37 am
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donalda
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Forgot to ask about the transformer. Says dangerous--do not touch. Is there a way to ground it out to get rid of danger.

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 Posted: Sun Feb 1st, 2009 01:03 am
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RegUS_PatOff
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unplug the Range



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 Posted: Sun Feb 1st, 2009 01:08 am
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donalda
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Thanks for your replies. Any thoughts on taking the ERC to an appliance store to have ERC tested for problems?

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 Posted: Sun Feb 1st, 2009 01:15 am
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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donalda wrote:
I understand we could remove the ERC control and take it to a parts store to be tested to see if the ERC for oven & broiler is defective.

Where did you acquire this understanding? It is false.

Fax your wiring diagram/tech sheet to me and I'll post it here. 1-866-315-4504.



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 Posted: Mon Feb 2nd, 2009 03:19 am
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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Got the fax of your wiring diagram. Do you have the schematic as well? And make sure you select high resolution when you send the fax-- the wiring diagram is marginal.



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 Posted: Mon Feb 2nd, 2009 03:34 am
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donalda
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schematic has been faxed.

Thanks

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