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 Moderated by: BrntToast, RegUS_PatOff, appl.tech.29501 Search Our Sites for More Info! Page:  First Page Previous Page  1  2  3  Next Page Last Page  
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sears gas range, model 362.75980891  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Mon Feb 2nd, 2009 03:42 am
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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Can't read the text on the schematic. Try it again on supah-fine setting.



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 Posted: Mon Feb 2nd, 2009 04:02 am
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donalda
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sorry about that. Have sent both diagrams again in super fine.

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 Posted: Mon Feb 2nd, 2009 04:33 am
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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Schematic.

Attachment: donalda-schematic.pdf (Downloaded 4 times)



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 Posted: Mon Feb 2nd, 2009 04:33 am
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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Wiring Diagram

Attachment: donalda-wiring-diagram.pdf (Downloaded 3 times)



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 Posted: Mon Feb 2nd, 2009 04:48 am
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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Beginning at the ignitors, listing components in common with both ignitors:

line side: ERC, wire harness noted with the number 3
neutral side: gas valve

You'll need to get eyeballs on:

- the ERC board and harness connectors
- the wires at each ignitor
- the wiring at the gas valve
- wire harness "3" on the wiring diagram-- this is run of wires from each ignitor to the ERC-- the entire run needs to be inspected for pinches, etc.

You're looking for frays, pinches, burns, weirdness in whatever, like, manifestation it may present itself, you know? Fer sher, dude. :surfin:

Problems like this are usually found by inspection. If not, then we gradumutate to meter tests. :nerd:



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 Posted: Mon Feb 2nd, 2009 05:09 am
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donalda
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Thanks, but my son & I have micro inspected every connection, wire, etc., and can't see any sign of a burn, frayed wire, or anything suspicious looking.

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 Posted: Mon Feb 2nd, 2009 05:20 am
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Hello, my suspicious looking friend. It appears that you now proceed to making strategic electrical measurements, as our effluvious host alluded to earlier in his characteristic jejune manner. Specifically, test for 120vac from the control board at the pins for the ignitor wires. If the voltage is not present, then it would seem you need to replace the control board. However, I must hasten to add that the image quality of the diagrams is quite poor, so there is also the possibility that there is another component common to the ignitors, such as a thermal fuse; if so, then it is not clearly visible.



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 Posted: Mon Feb 2nd, 2009 05:22 am
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RegUS_PatOff
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 CJ, is that your phone number at the top of the fax ?

Samurai may have to edit that pdf file ....

RegUS_PatOff wrote: Were you using the Oven at the time ?

donalda wrote:
... I believe the oven was on. We had just taken dinner out of oven.
If the Element shorted to the Oven wall while it was ON, it could have taken out a Circuit Path or a Relay (parts of) the Controller Board

 



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 Posted: Mon Feb 2nd, 2009 05:46 am
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donalda
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Am wondering if the ERC can have a short inside the control that is not visible from eye inspection. Tripping the breaker sounds like a short. Does the ERC circuit board separate from the plastic case so we can see the underside of the circuit board?

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 Posted: Mon Feb 2nd, 2009 05:52 am
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RegUS_PatOff
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Does it still blow the Breaker ?

If not, there could be an OPEN circuit path or a burned out (OPEN) Relay

The "short" could have been a cracked/broken Heating Element that touched the Oven wall (and took out the Controller).

The circuit board should be able to be removed...

 

Last edited on Mon Feb 2nd, 2009 05:53 am by RegUS_PatOff



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 Posted: Mon Feb 2nd, 2009 05:59 am
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donalda
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Range is gas so no element to short to oven wall.

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 Posted: Mon Feb 2nd, 2009 06:17 am
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donalda
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Breaker has stayed on. Not sure we have found pins for igniters on board.

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 Posted: Mon Feb 2nd, 2009 06:20 am
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donalda
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don't see anything like a thermal fuse.

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 Posted: Mon Feb 2nd, 2009 06:32 am
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RegUS_PatOff
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RegUS_PatOff wrote: donalda wrote:
... I believe the oven was on. We had just taken dinner out of oven.
If the Element shorted to the Oven wall while it was ON, it could have taken out a Circuit Path or a Relay (parts of) the Controller Board


donalda wrote:
Range is gas so no element to short to oven wall.I knew I heard that somewhere before...  :snooze:

I should have said:
If the Ignitor cracked/shorted to Oven Wall ...

Pins on Controller:

Bake = BA

Broil = BR

should have 120v AC when enabled...

Last edited on Mon Feb 2nd, 2009 06:10 pm by RegUS_PatOff



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 Posted: Mon Feb 2nd, 2009 06:37 am
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donalda
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Thanks for clarification of pins. Got em. Will probably not be testing until tomorrow morning. Thanks for hanging in there with me.

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 Posted: Mon Feb 2nd, 2009 06:01 pm
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donalda
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Tested for 120v from control boaard to igniter wires and did not have power going to wires. If we replace the ERC is there a possibility we will short the new ERC so the

new one goes bad.

We lifted the board from the plastic case and the underside shows a burn spot or disconnect from one solder point to another. The question is did board go bad by itself or did something cause it to go bad.

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 Posted: Mon Feb 2nd, 2009 06:08 pm
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donalda
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Having difficulty pulling wire connector apart to test oven sensor. Any trick to doing that?

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 Posted: Mon Feb 2nd, 2009 06:13 pm
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RegUS_PatOff
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this is what you should be testing:

click on picture



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 Posted: Mon Feb 2nd, 2009 06:29 pm
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donalda
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We have checked igniters and they seem to be ok.

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 Posted: Mon Feb 2nd, 2009 06:55 pm
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donalda
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I'm not sure earlier message got thru, so will repeat.

We tested for 120v from board to igniter wire and did not have power to igniter. Also, looked at back of board and saw burn spot and disconnect from one solder spot to another.

If we replace ERC are we going to short out new one or can board just go bad.

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