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- > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Kitchen Appliance Repair Forum > LG LDS 5811st E1 error code help, and test mode info

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LG LDS 5811st E1 error code help, and test mode info  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Sun Dec 21st, 2008 03:04 am
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chazman05
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Okay I have replaced the wash pump already and it did not fix the e1 problem.  I have the drain hose with a high loop in it as noted in service manual.  I ran the test mode but not sure how to utilize it or really get information from it.  What can i do to get this thing working correctly?  I can run the quick wash but it makes a funny sound when the wash pump is running.  Not a mechanical sound but like the motor is spinning too fast and there isnt enough water to move.

Thanks,

Merry Christmas.

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 Posted: Sun Dec 21st, 2008 03:34 am
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grey shrek



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The only info I have says  e1 means not enough water getting into the washer.  I presume from your note that you have water in washer but it doesn't drain?

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 Posted: Sun Dec 21st, 2008 04:33 am
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RegUS_PatOff
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may not be enough water...

is it an E1 or a 1E error ?

LDS5811 Service Manual

Last edited on Tue Dec 30th, 2008 07:10 pm by RegUS_PatOff



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 Posted: Mon Dec 22nd, 2008 12:14 pm
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L.G. dishwasher code E1  'leakage error' You will need to remove the d/w from the counter. did you download the manual that Reg US provided? go to page 40, you will see an item called, 'guide assembly'... do you see some gookus ( tech. speak ) in the bottom of the assy,? Now go to page 22 for removal.   You will want to remove the float assy from the rest of the guide assy. Remove the switches, do not try to remove the wires...(they break easy, trust me).  REMEMBER which switch goes where, use your Sharpie that you carry in your tool bag, Same as the two floats, mark which location they come from. Clean out all of that black jello looking stuff (gookus).The floats need to be clean, same as the float assy housing.....Now look down the large hose, clean that out also. This guide assy. is where the water enters the  d/w..The float assy maintains water level.. So all that gookus in the float assy, the water flows across the stuff.........If the float assy is clean, reassemble, plug the lower holes with your thumbs, fill with water slowly, do the floats activate the switch levers? If o.k. reassemble, See note on page 22...  test unit......... I carry a digital camera in the tool bag, this assy with gookus is worth a thousand words ( I forgot to take the picture ).......good luck..keep us posted......... "Merry Christmas to all"                

Last edited on Mon Dec 22nd, 2008 12:16 pm by certified tech group 51

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 Posted: Mon Dec 22nd, 2008 01:26 pm
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chazman05
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I did have some gookus in the float assembly but i had cleaned it out already.  I also cleaned the large hose too.  I noticed from one of your other post that adding some water would help.  I tried this and sure enough it quiets everything down and finishes the cycle.  So the DW is either not getting enough water or pumping too much out.  What do you suggest?  I will double check the float assembly just to make sure its okay.  The switches worked kind of. sometimes they would seem to rise up but not activate switch right away.  Would it help to replace switches or the plastic float assembly?

Thanks, again.

CHaz

Merry Christmas
The last normal mode i ran i did not recieve any error codes.q  Just really noisty until i added extra water.

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 Posted: Tue Dec 23rd, 2008 01:02 am
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BrntToast
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you say you have a high loop in the drain hose, where is the end of the drain hose? does it go to a sink or through the floor?

maybe the machine is syphoning?

 



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 Posted: Tue Dec 23rd, 2008 01:18 pm
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chazman05
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The drain hose connect to my garbage disposal, how could i be sure that it wasnt siphoning?

thx again

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 Posted: Tue Dec 23rd, 2008 02:16 pm
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The diagnostic test, how much water is let into the machine. Run the test,  Soil Level at count 315, is the water near the top ridge in the bottom?  If it is, Run the d/w in regular/normal load.  Just as the unit stops filling, open the door, is it at the some level as in the diagnostic test? I also checked the fill valve intake filter, it was clear of debris.....The d/w I worked on, the cleaning of all that gookus and the free movement of the floats fixed my customers complaint. That was apx. 6 weeks ago, I had the customer call on mondays to let me know if the repair is still working, if not I would return and try some thing else...Possibly the micro-switches......  I called L.G. direct, and asked for a service technician and they started me off with a customer service person. I asked for more tecnical information and they connected me thru to the tech dept. I told the tech that I was an independent service provider and that there is no other service people around.. The tech told me where to look and what to do for that fault code, it worked for me..........

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 Posted: Thu Dec 25th, 2008 05:34 pm
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I put in a new control board in an Asco D/W wednesday, and there was sheet of paper that was the new code for the modifiers.... (so you can modify the D/W to your specifications)...Then I got thinking, Bosch has a hidden modifier that you need to push some buttons to access them.. I wonder, do you think L.G. has one to increase the water level ?

Last edited on Thu Dec 25th, 2008 05:34 pm by certified tech group 51

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 Posted: Tue Dec 30th, 2008 05:20 pm
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chazman05
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Thats a good point if anybody else knows more about modifying LG D/W let me know.  As far as the DW i have not had time to pull it out and check floats but it will run fine if you add ~4 large glasses of water.  Not sure on amt ~ 3 qts or so.  When the DW kicks on you hear the water entering the unit but after it allows water in it kicks on the discharge pump.  THink its float related?

Thanks,

Chaz

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 Posted: Tue Dec 30th, 2008 05:24 pm
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denrayr
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As far as i know they dont have any modifiers. i would check the flow meter and the wiring at the bottom of the inner door panel. they have had issues with broken wires at this point.



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 Posted: Tue Dec 30th, 2008 05:28 pm
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chazman05
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No visible broken or burnt wires, Although they were stuck in the black tar like stuff. I have pulled them away and wrapped them in some tape for now.  I see the flow meter but how would you check it to make sure its working properly?  I can see it spinning and see the wire that im guessing detects its revolutions but dont know how to isolate it and test it.

thanks,
chaz

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 Posted: Tue Dec 30th, 2008 06:07 pm
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denrayr
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sorry i had the 1e code in my head, insufficient water fill detected while filling. code e1 is excessive motor rpms due to insufficient water after running. so either the water leaks out during the cycle or it didnt fill with enough from the start.  if you can add water and have the cycle finish correctly then it is not leaking out. certified is pointing you down the right path here. it sounds like the float is preventing proper water fill.



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 Posted: Wed Jan 7th, 2009 12:07 am
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chazman05
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Wires look fine, i pulled it off but hard to check it out since one end is inclosed.  I could order the part since its only 10 bucks but would like to know if it will fix it since ive already thrown too much money at this DW.  When the unit begins to fill after a few mins the float fills up and kicks on the drain pump then it starts its cycle, but the DW needs more water as its not up to the 2nd rim in the stamped basin. 

Any more ideas would be appreciated.

Pulling my hair out on this one.:yikes:

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 Posted: Wed Jan 7th, 2009 05:28 am
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denrayr
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did you take the float assembly apart to clean it? i havent had the pleasure of working on the float on one of these. according to the diagram there are two switches built into the float assembly. maybe one of the two is hanging up.



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 Posted: Wed Jan 7th, 2009 12:18 pm
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chazman05
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denrayr wrote: did you take the float assembly apart to clean it? i havent had the pleasure of working on the float on one of these. according to the diagram there are two switches built into the float assembly. maybe one of the two is hanging up.
yes i took it a part and cleaned  it.  Im wondering what each switch is for?  I know one switch is the drain pump but not sure what the first one is. Can someone help me out?

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 Posted: Wed Jan 7th, 2009 12:49 pm
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chazman05
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ONe more question, i have a pen size hole in the mesh filter.  IS that a big problem?

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 Posted: Wed Jan 7th, 2009 08:31 pm
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denrayr
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as far as i can tell, one switch is a safety switch so if the primary switch fails the second one will trigger the pump. it sounds like the secondary safety switch is triggering too soon.



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 Posted: Wed Jan 7th, 2009 08:50 pm
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chazman05
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Well im not too sure on the design unless there is a flaw in the assembly some how that i dont see.  Basically once the water starts entering the DW it overflows into the float side.  THe first float having a longer arm to activate the switch gets triggered quite quickly but not sure as to what it does. The second float which i think is the emergency drain pump will actiavate after the water begins but takes maybe  minute or so before it activates.  You can trigger the 2nd shorter one and the drain pump immediatly activates as for the other one i dont know what it does or how the logic is used.  More direction or info would be appreciated.

Thanks.

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 Posted: Thu Jan 8th, 2009 01:21 am
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denrayr
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again i havent had the pleasure of working on the float assembly yet. when the second float activates is the machine still underfilled?



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