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GE Profile Performance Refrigerator  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Fri Apr 15th, 2005 04:25 am
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cnewk
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I have a GE Profile Performance Refrigerator. I have no idea how old it is. We just bought our house a couple months ago, and the previous owners left no owner's manuals for anything. The back has the code TFX25PP on it.

It looks like the solenoid valve is leaking. (I found this other thread for http://applianceguru.com/forum1/180.html that had this picture of a solenoid valve).



(I don't know if this is the exact same model, but it looks the same)

I took the back panel off, and the water seems to be coming from this valve. It is really hard to get a good look at, since it is low and tucked pretty well. It didn't appear that it was a specific connection that was leaking, but the valve it self. I may be wrong, it was pretty hard to tell for sure.

Any help would be appreciated. I'm wondering if I need to get a new solenoid valve, and if they are difficult to install. Also, all the water lines are plastic, which I know is bad. Is changing to copper advisable or is that just more work to fix something that isn't broken (the plastic tubes don't seem to be the problem right now).

Thanks.

 

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 Posted: Fri Apr 15th, 2005 04:33 am
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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You'll need to get back there with a flashlight and look reeeeal close-like to see if the leak is coming from the valve itself or from cracked tubing. If it's from the valve, then git you a new one.



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 Posted: Fri Apr 15th, 2005 04:44 am
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cnewk
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I'm pretty sure it was the valve. I had crawled back there with a flashlight and a mirror (I couldn't see much of the valve with out the mirror). The water dripped from one of the screws.

Is this valve a real difficult thing to replace?

Thanks again for your help.

 

Last edited on Fri Apr 15th, 2005 04:45 am by cnewk

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 Posted: Fri Apr 15th, 2005 05:24 am
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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cnewk wrote:
Is this valve a real difficult thing to replace?

A single mug on the SUDS scale. Piece of pie, comrade!



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 Posted: Fri Apr 15th, 2005 02:17 pm
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cnewk
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Cool. Thanks!

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 Posted: Fri Apr 15th, 2005 03:14 pm
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Mad Mac
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The one thing that catches people out with this kind of job is the increasingly common "John Guest" fittings which connect the tubing to the valve. All you have to do is push down on the coloured part and the tube will pull out. Similarly, push this part down while re-inserting the tubing, it is designed to hold it once you let it go.



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 Posted: Sat Apr 16th, 2005 10:09 pm
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Jedi Appliance Guy



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  When you install that valve do your best to avoid cramming those tubes against the hot compressor or your repair will only be temporary.

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 Posted: Thu Apr 21st, 2005 01:59 am
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weekender
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Great site... I ordered a new valve(wr57x10051) from sears ($ 50.89 after shipping) and was wondering about the hook-up.   The fittings spooked me.

Your advice... "All you have to do is push down on the coloured part and the tube will pull out. Similarly, push this part down while re-inserting the tubing, it is designed to hold it once you let it go."

... will be very helpful.  THANKS !!!!  Back to the suds!

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 Posted: Thu Apr 21st, 2005 05:43 am
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Jedi Appliance Guy



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Suds are cool

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 Posted: Fri Apr 22nd, 2005 06:08 pm
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weekender
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Repair was a snap.  Very easy.  BUT had a concern. GE had a note in micro type about removing old bracket and slipping it between the new valve and bracket... I didn't.  The new bracket seemed to fit perfectly.  

Question1: Does the angle of the valves matter? There seemed to be a slight angle to the old bracket.

Question 2: I am only getting 5 out of 8 cubes per cycle... I am assuming I need more water per cycle. Right?  How do I adjust?

Question 3: What's the best suds brand for this kind of job... or will any suds do?

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 Posted: Fri May 13th, 2005 10:48 pm
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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Good info, upset, but your letter lost something in the translation.  You're welcome to re-post it. 



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