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- > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Kitchen Appliance Repair Forum > Maytag Plus Side by Side Refrigerator not cooling MSD2756GEW

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Maytag Plus Side by Side Refrigerator not cooling MSD2756GEW  Rating:  Rating
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 Posted: Sat Oct 25th, 2008 04:14 pm
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Epeescott
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I woke up this morning and the refrigerator side seemed quite warmer than normal.

Freezer side is still frozen.

Compressor running, coils clean, no ice or water buildup anywhere.

The only thing I can note is the refrigerator door seal is not quite made on the bottom furthest from the hinge, but is tight on the hinge side.

I can't imagine that this suddenly happened overnight, but it sure needs adjusting.

How do I adjust the door seal?  The gasket looks to be in good condition.

Any other suggestions for what could have happened overnight to cause a cooling problem?



Thanks!

Last edited on Sat Oct 25th, 2008 04:15 pm by Epeescott



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 Posted: Sat Oct 25th, 2008 04:24 pm
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Epeescott wrote: ... Compressor running, coils clean, no ice or water buildup anywhere...How's the Evaporator Coil in the Freezer ?    Frosted/clogged ?

Last edited on Sat Oct 25th, 2008 04:24 pm by RegUS_PatOff



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 Posted: Sat Oct 25th, 2008 04:30 pm
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There is a fingerprint thin film of frost on the back wall of the freezer, but if I push on the back wall I can hear a crunch crunch, like walking in snow.

The compressor tank is running (humming) but the output tube to the freezer is only moderately cool.



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 Posted: Sat Oct 25th, 2008 04:32 pm
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If the Evaporator Coil is clogged with snow (Defrost Problem),
it won't let the air-flow into the Fridge....



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 Posted: Sat Oct 25th, 2008 04:35 pm
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I'm pulling the cover off the freezer back right now.


Wifey is putting goods into the freezer in the garage...:D

Be right back.



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 Posted: Sat Oct 25th, 2008 04:47 pm
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I think this might be too frozen.......What do you say?


I thought it would have shown more in the freezer itself, without having taken off the back.




Ok, so why didn't the auto-defrost work?  Also, I still need to adjust the fridge side door - any hints for that?

Attachment: Freezer.jpg (Downloaded 45 times)



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 Posted: Sat Oct 25th, 2008 04:55 pm
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Epeescott wrote: I think this might be too frozen.......What do you say?

Ok, so why didn't the auto-defrost work? 


Definitely too much frost (on the bottom).

I don't know if I like that Frost Pattern... hopefully only a Defrost Problem.

Auto-defrost, yea, controlled by ADC (Adaptive Defrost Control) board.

You may have the newer style... (better)


 

Last edited on Sat Oct 25th, 2008 05:27 pm by RegUS_PatOff



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 Posted: Sat Oct 25th, 2008 04:59 pm
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Standing by.....Hair dryer is running on the coils now.


Oh, side note to other readers - when you pull everything out of the freezer and store it elsewhere, don't forget your automatic icemaker bin - that would be a mess!

(I remembered).



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 Posted: Sat Oct 25th, 2008 05:06 pm
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If you have a newer style ADC board, you can initiate a Defrost Cycle by
turning the Cold Control ON/OFF 3 times within 10 seconds, then leave it ON.

Otherwise, to initiate Defrost on the older ADC boards, you must momentarily short L1 to TEST on the ADC board hidden above the Cold Control area.

 

Last edited on Sat Oct 25th, 2008 05:07 pm by RegUS_PatOff



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 Posted: Sat Oct 25th, 2008 05:08 pm
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Epeescott
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How do I know if I do?

Or should I just try it when I get everything put back together?



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 Posted: Sat Oct 25th, 2008 05:20 pm
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It would be easier to see/test if you did it with the panel removed, and frost on the coils ...

Do you have a meter ?



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 Posted: Sat Oct 25th, 2008 05:22 pm
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Epeescott
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Yeah, a Fluke 87.  I was an electrician in the Navy.

Go ahead, thanks!


Too late - frost is all gone now.

Last edited on Sat Oct 25th, 2008 05:24 pm by Epeescott



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 Posted: Sat Oct 25th, 2008 05:26 pm
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It may take a few days/weeks to build up to clog the air-flow...

Looking again at that Frost pattern, you may have a Sealed System leak..

The Defrost Terminating Thermostat is at the top of the Evaporator Coils.

If the Defrost Thermostat thinks it's warm enough, it'll stop defrosting..
(but the bottom of the Evapoartor Coil may still be frosted...)


Maybe another Master can help out here ....

Last edited on Sat Oct 25th, 2008 05:32 pm by RegUS_PatOff



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 Posted: Sat Oct 25th, 2008 05:28 pm
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Can't I still see if I can get it to defrost by jumpering L1 like you said?  If so, where is the board?



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 Posted: Sat Oct 25th, 2008 05:37 pm
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It won't start the Defrost unless the Defrost Thermostat (on the Evaporator Coils) is cold enough...

read this thread:

I joined near the bottom of page 2

some board repair info in the middle of page 3

http://applianceguru.com/forum1/119-1.html

MSD2756GEW Service Manual 

 

(time to mow the lawn...)


Last edited on Sat Oct 25th, 2008 05:41 pm by RegUS_PatOff



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 Posted: Sat Oct 25th, 2008 05:44 pm
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Thanks - I'm going to check the continuity of the heater while it's open, then shut it all up and test the ADC when back to temp.


I'll update in a while.

D'oh!  The bimetallic is in series with the heater, so I can't check it until at temp....Now I see why.

Last edited on Sat Oct 25th, 2008 06:03 pm by Epeescott



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 Posted: Sat Oct 25th, 2008 06:33 pm
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does the fan work? the frost pattern looks to me like the fan hasnt been running.



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 Posted: Sat Oct 25th, 2008 06:57 pm
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Fan runs without noise.



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 Posted: Sat Oct 25th, 2008 07:02 pm
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Epeescott
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Ok, back down to freezing.

Ohmed out the heater/bimetallic.  Heater reads 21 ohms - good.  Bimetallic works - took it off and held it in my hand, took about five seconds and it opened, I could feel and hear it click.  Leads on that side were 240Kohm, that parallel resistor.

Jumped L1 and test on the ADC - heard relay click, no buzzing, no defrost.

Ergo, bad ADC board.

Is this one that can be solved by your capacitor replacement?



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 Posted: Sat Oct 25th, 2008 07:10 pm
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no, that would be a buzzing Relay.

sounds like a bad Relay

(the Defrost Terminator has a 240k resistor inside so that you can test the Defrost Circuit  even when the Thermostat is open..)

If you turn the Cold Control OFF, and short from L2 to DEF HTR (or measure current), the Heater should come on (if the Defrost Terminator is cold..)

 

Last edited on Sat Oct 25th, 2008 10:49 pm by RegUS_PatOff



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