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Maytag Side By Side Refrigerator  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Thu Jun 12th, 2008 11:38 pm
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dcad100
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I just ordered a new board. I'll post the results after I put the new one in.

 

Thanks Loads

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 Posted: Fri Jun 13th, 2008 12:03 am
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RegUS_PatOff
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dcad100 wrote: ... I jumped L1 with the test prong and I get no reaction at all...                                                   ... ...The fan above the evap coil did not stop and it sounds like the compressor is still running before and after I jump L1 and the Test prong...bad ADC

Last edited on Fri Jun 13th, 2008 12:06 am by RegUS_PatOff



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 Posted: Wed Jun 18th, 2008 11:17 pm
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dcad100
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Ok I got the new controller board and installed it. It is not the exact same as the old one which has L1 then test from left right. This one has L1 then Door as the next prong on the controller board. As per your direction I jumped L1 and test to force a defrost before. So my question now is how do I force a defrost to make sure this fixed the problem with the new board?

 

Thanks

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 Posted: Wed Jun 18th, 2008 11:27 pm
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Trying to help wrote: ... as Reg pointed out on his post, the newer boards do not have a terminal where the word TEST is. To get these boards into defrost, you need to cycle the cold control on and off 3 times and then leave it in the on position.   

Last edited on Wed Jun 18th, 2008 11:29 pm by RegUS_PatOff



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 Posted: Thu Jun 19th, 2008 07:54 pm
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dcad100
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Ok, now I've got a big problem, well maybe not so much a problem. I've never had something go that easy!!! It works great. The fan stopped and the coil started to hiss with the melting ice. My next feat is I'm going to try and set up the door ice maker/water dispenser. I'm not sure if it works yet. I ordered the new filter when I got the new control board and I have run water lines before.

This is a very cool site and if you have any links to fix-it-yourself car or boat sites, please let me know.

A big Thank You to you guys and hava cold one for me!!! 

Last edited on Thu Jun 19th, 2008 08:29 pm by dcad100

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 Posted: Fri Jun 20th, 2008 12:29 am
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We've had our MSD2756 since 1998 (?)

A few years after we got it the ADC went out.

Here's a Maytag Bulletin that addresses an air-flow problem on some models.

It didn't list our models exactly, but I just used some transparent waterproof duct tape on the (10) vents (and 3 extra), as suggested on the 27cu/ft model to increase air-flow to the FF side.

The Compressor is controlled by the Freezer Temperature slider, and the FF temp is controlled by the Auto Damper vent and the air-flow by the Evaporator Fan.

If your freezer temp is satisfied, the FF side may suffer, since no Compressor nor air-flow will occur till the Freezer calls for Compressor/Evaporator Fan.

 

 

Last edited on Fri Jun 20th, 2008 12:29 am by RegUS_PatOff



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 Posted: Sun Sep 26th, 2010 08:44 pm
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dcad100
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Hello, I'm back on this same issue. It's been a couple years with the replacement defrost board. I now have the same problem as the temp is not right on either side of the freezer/fridge again. I took off the freezer back panel and the coil is all frozen up on the top (solid ice) but not the bottom of the coil. I ran the test to check that the defrost heater coil is working and it is. Could the new problem be the defrost timer and is that on the same defrost board I replaced a couple years ago?

Please help.

Thanks  

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 Posted: Sun Sep 26th, 2010 08:51 pm
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is the Defrost (Terminator) Thermostat mounted in the right place ?

after manually Defrosting (with a hair-Dryer)
let the Compressor run an hour or more (with Evaporator cover in place),

then post a picture of the Evaporator frost pattern somewhere  http://www.imageshack.us

and post the link here.

 



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 Posted: Mon Sep 27th, 2010 12:19 am
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dcad100
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I did what you said and I took a few pictures. Here is the link:
http://img121.imageshack.us/gal.php?g=1002788ob.jpg

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 Posted: Mon Sep 27th, 2010 12:36 am
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nice pictures, but I can't tell if all of the Coils are frosted, may take a few more hours ..
or over-night

Is the Fan running good ?

 



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 Posted: Mon Sep 27th, 2010 12:53 am
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dcad100
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Yes, the fan is running. Just the top few coils are frosted and goes down to no frost but I will post more pictures tomorrow.


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 Posted: Mon Sep 27th, 2010 03:46 pm
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dcad100
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I took some new pictures this morning. I think I found the problem and you can tell me if this is even repairable or it's time for a new refrigerator. It looks like the defrost heat coil works too well heating the cover melting the plastic right into the insulation. What do you suggest from here?

Pictures:
http://img338.imageshack.us/gal.php?g=pic1cq.jpg

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 Posted: Mon Sep 27th, 2010 04:23 pm
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frost pattern is great ...

While the Defrost is initiated by the ADC, it is terminated when the Defrost Thermsostat reaches temperature
(or usually 25 minutes, whichever comes first)

It may be "stuck" closed, allowing for the full 25 minute Defrost Cycle,
but if there's still solid ice after a Defrost Cycle,
then there may be other reasons for the increased frost...

How's the Door Gaskets ?

Try the George Wa$h1ngton test.

Close the Door on George and take him for a ride around the Door Gaskets and check to be sure he stays snug.



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 Posted: Mon Sep 27th, 2010 04:45 pm
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dcad100
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I did the Washington test and all is fine except that there is damaged gasket on the fridge side of about 5inches that is torn open length wise so I'm sure it is leaking there.

I don't know if this has anything to do with it too but we have had record heat in the high nineties for a good part of the summer right into Sept. and I'm in the northeast.

What do you think?


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 Posted: Mon Sep 27th, 2010 05:09 pm
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that'll let moisture in, and cause excessive frost ...

best to replace/repair for now somehow ...

 



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 Posted: Mon Sep 27th, 2010 05:24 pm
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dcad100
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Do they sell replacement door seals? What about the plastic melting? Should I replace the thermostat on the coil?


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 Posted: Mon Sep 27th, 2010 05:36 pm
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click on picture


you could check the Defrost Thermostat to see if it's "open" at room temperature

 



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 Posted: Mon Sep 27th, 2010 06:16 pm
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dcad100
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I will check the thermostat then get the new seal and thermostat if needed.

 Is it possible in my investigation I made a mistake to cause the plastic melting? I had done the test of turning off the the settings three times to engage the defrost coil to see if it was working. I can't remember if I unplugged the fridge soon after doing this test. I know with this test it overrides the board so will this just stay on if you do not unplug the fridge after this test?


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 Posted: Mon Sep 27th, 2010 06:27 pm
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dcad100 wrote: ... will this just stay on if you do not unplug the fridge after this test?..
no, the Defrost Thermostat should "open" the circuit no matter what ..

the Defrost Thermostat is part of the Heater/Thermostat/Harness assembly..

(not a bad price)

click on picture


other generic Defrost Thermostats could be wired-in, but I don't remember the temperature specs ..

 



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