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Maytag Side By Side Refrigerator  Rating:  Rating
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 Posted: Tue Jun 10th, 2008 08:11 pm
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dcad100
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It is a Maytag Plus.

I called a service man to fix the refrigerator because it was leaking water on both sides and the fridge side was not going below 50. He found that the freezer coil was totally frozen so he defrosted it and unplugged the coil drain but he didn't really go any further than that. The cost for the one hour service call was almost 300 dollars. It did work better for a couple of days. The freezer was and has been around 5 below to zero and the fridge was around 45. I called him about the fridge and he said to only adjust the dial that has the on/off switch and always leave the other in the middle. I turned up the dial as he said a point and a half and it maintained 40 for a few days. The last two days the freezer has maintained around five to zero as it has been but the fridge is back up to 55 degrees. I just increased it another point and a half and know I have to wait 24 hours to see the effect. It does not seem right that I need to keep adjusting this every couple days. It is now past their guarantee of one week so I would have to pay the almost $300 to get him back again and I don't want to get to the point of saying that I could have bought a brand new fridge rather than keep calling the service guy back so I'd like to try and fix it myself. Please help?

Thanks

Last edited on Tue Jun 10th, 2008 08:13 pm by dcad100

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 Posted: Tue Jun 10th, 2008 08:21 pm
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One week warranty??  Did they replace any parts at all or tell you why the ice or frost was formed and or what caused it?  We will need a model and serial number to try and help out but with the info you provided so far, looks like the biggest problem was the service company you called.



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 Posted: Tue Jun 10th, 2008 09:12 pm
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dcad100
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The only number I can find is on a sticker on the back which says Refrigerant 134A and below that is MSD2556AEW. That probably does not help but where would the mod. and s/n be located?

No, they did not replace a thing and did not say why all the ice on the coil.

Last edited on Tue Jun 10th, 2008 09:15 pm by dcad100

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 Posted: Tue Jun 10th, 2008 09:24 pm
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Usually the model and serial tag is up in the Fresh Food side ceiling about 3-4" in on a paper tag.  For your evap to be all frosted up, you either had to have a wire off, a failed defrost component or an air leak that would suck small children through.  I have never heard of a 1 week warranty.  Are you sure that is what it is? 



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 Posted: Tue Jun 10th, 2008 11:21 pm
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dcad100
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I found the tag and it is Model MSD 2556AEW  SN 11729756WS   Rev 11

One of the problems we've had for a long while is that there would be water in the bottom of both freezer and fridge coming out on the floor looking like it was coming from sweating in both compartments. Could that have been caused by a failed defrost component as well?

I bought this refrigerator about a year and a half ago used, so there was no warranty. I just called a service guy out of the book and yes he did say they guarantee their work for a week only. This guy was so heavy set, huffing and puffing that I was afraid of him having a heart attack on my kitchen floor. I also had great difficulty understanding what he was saying as well as I don't think he was understanding my questions either. I think he had some kind of accent, I don't know. He did bring in a voltmeter, shop vac, and hair dryer and only used the hair dryer. It did not make sense to me that a coil will freeze for no reason.

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 Posted: Tue Jun 10th, 2008 11:59 pm
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You could of had the heater slip out and partially melt the bottom of the floor causing an air leak.  We/you are going to have to remove the evap cover and get a look at what is going on.  What zip code are you calling from in case we need to recommend someone?  Below is a link to a unit that had heater damage that caused an air leak.  We are going to have to remove the rear cover and take a look at what is going on in there.

     http://applianceguru.com/forum1/15063.html 



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 Posted: Wed Jun 11th, 2008 01:01 am
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dcad100
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My zip is 02822 but I opened up the back panel to the evap and I see no signs of melting plastic at all like in the link you sent me. The evap coil is already starting to form ice again on the coil. This morning (6/11/08) I checked the temps and freezer is at zero and the fridge is up at 60 now.

Last edited on Wed Jun 11th, 2008 05:00 pm by dcad100

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 Posted: Wed Jun 11th, 2008 08:20 pm
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dcad100
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Addition to my post above.

I came home and the fridge was on the rise again so I decided to thaw out the coil before the food in the fridge starts to cook. The coil was iced up again and I was looking around and saw a little plastic duct in the upper corner of the freezer side going to the fridge side and decided to remove it. I took it off and the inside of the plastic duct was a solid block of ice. I was able to melt it enough to remove it without harming the foam insulation and could feel the damper with my fingers so that is clear now. I assume the next step is to check the t-stat and evap heater. I don't know much about electrical but I do have a volt/ohm meter.

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 Posted: Wed Jun 11th, 2008 09:16 pm
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We are going to want to see if the unit will go into defrost when jumped.  You want to let it run a while to get a nice frosted evap (5-6 hours or so) and make sure the airway in the top of the unit is free of ice and frost, as well as the one down below behind the middle crisper bin.  That one has a plastic shield that gets pulled open by the evap fan motor.  We are going to have to access your defrost board which is located up in the FF ceiling section above the slide controls.  The cover comes down by pulling the front down slightly so it is loose, then grab the two rear corners of the plastic cover with your four fingers and thumb and pull down and forward with your fingers.  The cover should release (hate that damn cover).  After that your assembly is held in place by some screws that go up into the ceiling.  After they are removed, the assm. will slide to the right and drop down.  You will want to grab an insulated jumper (wire or needle nose with rubber handles) and with the compressor and fans running, jump from the L1 terminal on the board to the Test terminal on the board for a second or two.  It should go into defrost.  Let us know what you find.   



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 Posted: Wed Jun 11th, 2008 09:49 pm
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dcad100
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Ok, I have already cleared the top vent a few hours ago and I found the other vent as you said and was able to reach my fingers through and feel the evap coil. So that is clear. I will jump the L1 in a couple more hours. I assume I am looking to see if I get any heat out of the evap heat coil. I'll let you know what I find.  

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 Posted: Wed Jun 11th, 2008 10:36 pm
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Ahh.. yes, the Adaptive Defrost Controller

note: the newer boards don't have L1 & TEST

before you jumper L1 to TEST turn the Temperature Control to the far right to turn the Compressor on, so that when you do jumper it, you should hear the Compressor turn off and the Defrost Heater should heat.

If the Relay buzzes, that's an easy fix....

click on picture


sorry, I didn't read your post earlier, I read water leaking, ect, and I was in a hurry...

http://applianceguru.com/forum1/119.html   April 2005

I joined in the middle of page 3 , and eventually drew a schematic

Last edited on Wed Jun 11th, 2008 10:50 pm by RegUS_PatOff



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 Posted: Thu Jun 12th, 2008 07:08 pm
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dcad100
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Ok, I  removed the cover to the board and with the board still pluged in I jumped L1 with the test prong and I get no reaction at all. There is a little frost on the heater coil itself and it did not melt. The fan above the evap coil did not stop and it sounds like the compressor is still running before and after I jump L1 and the Test prong. Does that mean that the control board is bad? It had a paper schematic tucked in with the control board. Could that also mean it's been replaced before?

Last edited on Thu Jun 12th, 2008 07:26 pm by dcad100

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 Posted: Thu Jun 12th, 2008 08:06 pm
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You are going to have to ohm out your defrost bimetal.  If the board does not see it closed, it will not go into defrost.  You could have a bad board, but without ohming the rest of the circuit, we will not know.  Was there a terminal marked TEST on the board, or was that space blank?  The reason I am asking is as Reg pointed out on his post, the newer boards do not have a terminal where the word TEST is. To get these boards into defrost, you need to cycle the cold control on and off 3 times and then leave it in the on position.   



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 Posted: Thu Jun 12th, 2008 08:07 pm
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Is the Evaporator coil plugged with frost ?

Try the jumper again... careful,  L1 is 120v Line voltage...

 



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 Posted: Thu Jun 12th, 2008 08:23 pm
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dcad100
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I tried to jump the board holding the jumper almost 30 sec. and still no reaction. I tried to use different jumpers to make sure I was getting a good connection and that the jumper is conductive. The board does show L1 and does show the word test on it. I also used a volt meter from L1 to test and it shows no voltage reading.

Last edited on Thu Jun 12th, 2008 08:28 pm by dcad100

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 Posted: Thu Jun 12th, 2008 09:35 pm
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On the link below you see a picture of the board.  You can actually see a terminal next to test.  Is yours like this?  If it is, your test was valid and we would want to ohm out your defrost limiter.  To do this, turn your cold control all the way to it's highest setting and unplug the fridge from the wall as it is running to insure the contacts are calling for cool (evap should be frosted to insure bi metal is cold).  Then unplug the connector going to your adaptive defrost board and do the checks below.

Red to White with Black Stripe- Should read Continuity like you put the meter leads together.

Red to Yellow-  Should read approximately 40 ohms or so.  Just the resistance of the heater.

http://applianceguru.com/forum1/119.html



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 Posted: Thu Jun 12th, 2008 10:06 pm
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dcad100
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I ajusted the setting all the way to coldest, turned it off and I took the board out and I did a continuity check between L1 wire (Red) and L2 wire (White wire with black stripe) and I have full continuity. I did a reading from L1 (Red) to Def. Htr (Yellow Wire) and I'm getting the same as the first, full continuity. It is not reading around 40 like you said. Is that saying that it has no resistance on the Def Htr?

Last edited on Thu Jun 12th, 2008 10:13 pm by dcad100

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 Posted: Thu Jun 12th, 2008 10:21 pm
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What scale is your meter on??  You are only looking for approximately 40 ohms on the heater side.  The fact that you read a closed circuit, I bet you are good to go on those two parts but we want to be sure.  Also, the L2 is usually the solid white wire.  The white with black stripe should be Def. Tstat.  Are we sure we got the right one?



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 Posted: Thu Jun 12th, 2008 10:49 pm
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dcad100
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Ok I cheked it again and I must have wrote it down wrong, you are right, L2 is the solid white one. It is the exact same board as the one in the post you sent with the link. The meter I picked up has one OHM/continuity setting and after the test it burried the needle on both tests. 

Last edited on Thu Jun 12th, 2008 10:50 pm by dcad100

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 Posted: Thu Jun 12th, 2008 11:56 pm
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I believe you have a bad ADC Board.  Without a meter that we can set for the correct setting, you can not be 100% sure.  The bi-metal has a 240K ohm resistor built into it so when the bi-metal is open, you still get a reading unless the scale is set correctly.  If your evap is frosted, and you have a return signal through both, chances are your board is the culprit. 



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