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darylkern
Apprentice Appliantologist
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Posted: Thu May 15th, 2008 16:17 |
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My freezer, currently set on ZERO degrees, will go from zero to eleven degrees. At the same time my refrigerator, currently set on 37 degrees, will go down to around 31 degrees. The condenser fan is working and nothing in the back looks out of place (condenser coils clean). From everything that I've read here this could most likely be a defrost timer issue? Not sure where to go from here and need major advice!!!
Daryl
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darylkern
Apprentice Appliantologist
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Posted: Thu May 15th, 2008 16:19 |
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| By the way, never again will I buy GE!!! To bad it's a $2K fridge or I'd trash it. The wife hates it!
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RegUS_PatOff
Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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Posted: Thu May 15th, 2008 16:33 |
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so... the freezer is too warm while the fridge is too cold at times ?
It would be helpful to know if the Evaporator Fan (in the freezer) is running (anyime the Compressor is running, and the freezer door switch is closed) and what the frost on Evaporator Coils look like.
There may also be a Damper Door stuck open.
also: GE_refrig_board.pdf
Last edited on Thu May 15th, 2008 17:07 by RegUS_PatOff
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darylkern
Apprentice Appliantologist
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Posted: Thu May 15th, 2008 17:29 |
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Yes, at the same time freezer is 12 degrees, the refrigerator is 31 degrees, then they will both go back to normal.
Thanks. I will try and take a look at the evaporator coils tonight, and post a picture. Will also check to see if both fans are running at the same time.
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darylkern
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Posted: Fri May 16th, 2008 00:34 |
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| The evaporator fan did not run at all while I had the panel off (for about an hour) and I heard the compressor running. Here is a pic of the coils. Don't know what a damper switch is though. Attachment: 0091.jpg (Downloaded 65 times)
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darylkern
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Posted: Fri May 16th, 2008 00:38 |
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| Another pic Attachment: 0101.jpg (Downloaded 65 times)
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darylkern
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Posted: Fri May 16th, 2008 00:39 |
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| And the left side.......... Attachment: 0111.jpg (Downloaded 65 times)
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darylkern
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Posted: Fri May 16th, 2008 00:39 |
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| This is the coil after about an hour. Attachment: 0121.jpg (Downloaded 66 times)
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology
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Posted: Fri May 16th, 2008 00:59 |
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Coils look nicely frosted. Evap fan didn't run because you had the door open, door switch would cut the fan out.
How are you measuring the temps in the two compartments?
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darylkern
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Posted: Fri May 16th, 2008 03:12 |
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| Just taking temps off of ref's digital read out right now, but they seem to be fairly accurate... I can definitely tell that my freezer is not cool enough and ref is to warm. I was manually pushing the door switch down, and evap fan would not start running. Another pearl... I think my condenser is running pretty much non stop now.
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RegUS_PatOff
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Posted: Fri May 16th, 2008 03:21 |
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If you could measure the voltage at the Evaporator Fan while it should be running, OR measure the resistance of the fan motor when it's disconnected.
Evaporator Fan Motor:
RED = +12v DC
WHITE = Common
Last edited on Fri May 16th, 2008 04:06 by RegUS_PatOff
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Cactus Bob
Sublime Master of Appliantology
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Posted: Fri May 16th, 2008 04:00 |
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after you pushed the door switch how long did you wait untill you decided the fan was not working ? i have had a few GEs that take a few seconds untill the fan kicks on after the switch is pushed ......and i had one that did not go on for a long while (few mins) i am sure this was normal , something ge thought was a good idea
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darylkern
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Posted: Fri May 16th, 2008 12:56 |
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| I waited about one minute. No longer than that.
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darylkern
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Posted: Fri May 16th, 2008 15:28 |
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| Does anyone think that this is probably part of the closed system... because that is still under warranty. I had someone else tell me from what they heard it sounded like it could be a damper switch or something like that? So... woohoo... GE is getting out of consumer appliances?!!
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Cactus Bob
Sublime Master of Appliantology
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Posted: Fri May 16th, 2008 15:30 |
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FIRST tape the freezer door switch closed , that gets a timer delay off the table ! NOW, the fan must be working sometime otherwise the refrig part would be warm REAL WARM ! and its not . with the evap cover off , open the door a few times in an hour and look at the fan is it ever on ? ( note: your switch is still taped , take a flashlight ) if you see it on take the wires going to it and wiggle them at the plug and where thay go into the motor , does the motor stop ? how is the motor running ( if it is running ) is it running smooth and fast or is it running fast then slower makeing noises ? ....... if you never see it running you will need to make the voltage test BUT PLEASE LEAVE THE DOOR SWITCH TAPED untill this problem is over
Last edited on Fri May 16th, 2008 15:55 by Cactus Bob
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Cactus Bob
Sublime Master of Appliantology
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Posted: Fri May 16th, 2008 15:33 |
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"Does anyone think that this is probably part of the closed system... because that is still under warranty"......NO ,ITS NOT THE REFRIGERATION SYSTEM , YOU HAVE A GREAT FROST PATTERN SORRY
Last edited on Fri May 16th, 2008 15:34 by Cactus Bob
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darylkern
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Posted: Fri May 16th, 2008 15:49 |
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| Right, thanks a ton Cactus Bob. I will not be back home until later this afternoon. I will follow your steps then.
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darylkern
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Posted: Fri May 16th, 2008 21:12 |
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| Sorry guys, but do I just have to test if there is a current, or do I actually have to have a voltage tester to tell my how strong of one there is?
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darylkern
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Posted: Sat May 17th, 2008 22:04 |
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| The evap fan IS running... looks like it is running fine. Motor does not stop when I wiggle the wires and it sounds normal... I think. No variance of speed or sound. Just a steady buzz. Measured 3.8V. The condenser fan is also running at the same time, but it think that it may be running slow? Is is doing around one revolution per second (the condenser fan, that is).
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darylkern
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Posted: Sat May 17th, 2008 22:10 |
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| It also seems that the freezer is getting warmer when the evap is running, and goes back to normal temp (zero) when it is not.
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