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jimlem
Apprentice Appliantologist
| Joined: | Mon May 5th, 2008 |
| Location: | Kenosha, Wisconsin USA |
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Posted: Mon May 5th, 2008 16:36 |
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Sure hope you can help with my now dead dd dishwasher. Unit is about 3+ years and I've had several small leaks on occasions but I never paid much attention to them as I thought I maybe didn't shut the draw good enough. Never got any error codes until several days ago. Gad I found this site so hopefully you can help as I'd sure like to fix it myself. Here's the sequence of events.
First it started beeping and the F1 code appeared on the top draw. I pushed power off but it came back on and I then pulled the plug. Plugged it back it in and maybe 5 minutes later it started beeping again so I unplugged it and let it sit over night and got out my manual to figure out what to do.
The next day I plugged it back in and the code didn't come on. I cleaned out both draws and made sure the impellers were clean. I noticed some water in the lower draw above the drain outlet and there was a whole coffee bean in there so I thought that maybe that was plugging it up. Anyway, I ran the top draw thought the 12 min. rinse cycle and it worked fine. "Okay" I thought, "at least I can use the top drawer". When I tried to run the bottom drawer, it would power on for a few seconds and then I would here a faint click and the dispay would turn off and the unit wouldn't start. I next tried the "Hardware output test" and when I got to "Ld" the lid motors wouldn't run and the display would turn off. So I thought I had a bad lid motor. I planned on figuring out how to get to those motors the next day. The unit was off but I had it plugged in overnight. Well now IS the next day and while researching how to proceed, I smelled that burnt or "fried" electrical component smell! now niether drawer powers up. I have no idea what made something "fry" overnight. That's when I registered as I need help!
So I need the service manual at the minimum as I can't even figure out how to get to get the front off. I know you have to pull those pins but the front doesn't easily come off so I'm going to wait to so see if I can get some help from this site.
Thanks, Jim
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RegUS_PatOff
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Posted: Mon May 5th, 2008 17:08 |
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I have a manual or two that you could use.
I could email them to you.
manuals sent
Last edited on Mon May 5th, 2008 20:06 by RegUS_PatOff
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jimlem
Apprentice Appliantologist
| Joined: | Mon May 5th, 2008 |
| Location: | Kenosha, Wisconsin USA |
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Posted: Tue May 6th, 2008 17:41 |
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Thanks for the manuals!
I tore into it this morning and sad to say there was water under the lower tub and black soot all over the back left hand corner. I removed the cover and found the flood switch board indeed fried badly. I removed all the plugs and I thought I'd be home free on them but the last on was also badly damaged. That plug goes to the lower chassis harness.
The parts manual does not list the chassis/flood switch PCB. Searspartsdirect has the harness but I don't see that PCB listed either.
So where is the best place to get the parts?
PS. In hind sight I should have unplugged the unit over night but I had no indication that this was going to happen as the top draw ran fine and both were off the night before. Live and learn I guess.
Jim
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RegUS_PatOff
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Posted: Tue May 6th, 2008 18:51 |
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would that be the
ref# 19 part # 525976 CHASSIS MODULE on PDF pages 12 & 13 of the F&P parts manual
and at Sears ref #19 part # 525976 Chassis module in the Cabinet Diagram $ 13.49 (? ? ?) Last edited on Tue May 6th, 2008 18:54 by RegUS_PatOff
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jimlem
Apprentice Appliantologist
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Posted: Wed May 7th, 2008 00:20 |
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Thanks for the reply but I don't think that is it and $13 seems like not enough for a PCB.
After re-looking at the service manual you sent, I see a part #15 called a "mains filter board"- I bet that's it. Funny that the Service Manual calls it the Chassis /flood switch circuit board.
I've got to run right now but will check it out later. Thanks for the help.
Anybody else have any comments where to buy parts or is Sears the only place for Fisher& Paykel parts?
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RegUS_PatOff
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Posted: Wed May 7th, 2008 02:14 |
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I agree about #19 seems to the wrong part number or the wrong price...
#15 MAINS FILTER is a line-voltage noise filter
Last edited on Wed May 7th, 2008 02:56 by RegUS_PatOff
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jimlem
Apprentice Appliantologist
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Posted: Wed May 7th, 2008 03:56 |
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I zoomed into part #15(52595P) in the parts manual you gave me to get a closer look at it and it sure looks like the PCB that fits into part#19. It lists for $54.49 which is maybe about right. I think I can discern the two plug-in sets for plugs for the lid motors.
The words "mains filter board" could be NZ talk for the mains(ac) which it does connect to and then "filter"(divide up) and send electricity to various components in the dishwasher. Maybe I'm reading too much into it but there is no other items that look like that circuit board.
Any one ever order this part ?So is Sears the go to place for Fisher &Paykel parts?
Jim
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RegUS_PatOff
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Posted: Wed May 7th, 2008 05:16 |
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How many wires connect to your bad board ?
Do the (2) or (3) wires from the 120v AC line go into your board ?
Can you post a picture of your board here ? 200k max
Last edited on Wed May 7th, 2008 05:25 by RegUS_PatOff
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jimlem
Apprentice Appliantologist
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Posted: Wed May 7th, 2008 11:57 |
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There are two wires that attach to the PCB on the right hand side. The ground wire is attached close to the PCB then the PCB is grounded and held in place by a screw, located slightly to the left of center.
Thanks for the idea of attaching a picture of my fried PCB. Please see attached. You can also see the #15 part in the photo.
Jim
Attachment: IMGP0462.JPG (Downloaded 13 times) Last edited on Wed May 7th, 2008 11:59 by jimlem
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RegUS_PatOff
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Posted: Wed May 7th, 2008 12:26 |
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Nice Picture ! (unfortunately)
Yes, that looks like #15 (52595P)
My eyesight isn't as good as it once was, but from here it looks like that may be the part number under the soot of the bar code label ? 
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jimlem
Apprentice Appliantologist
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Posted: Wed May 7th, 2008 13:25 |
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I didn't even notice the bar code!
I got out my magnifying glass as it reads: 120P3 525959063670.
So the 525959 part of the above number matches the number in the parts manual. Sears uses the part#15 and then changes the number to 529849P as they say it's from an different manufacture but authorized by the company. Seems like this is the part.
I haven't checked locally if I can get the harness and the PCB but I'm willing to bet I can't. So if there is no other places to get parts I guess I'll go to SearsPartsDirect.
Any further thoughts?
Thanks for you're help.
Jim
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RegUS_PatOff
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Posted: Wed May 7th, 2008 13:42 |
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| I couldn't find anything else...
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certified tech group 51
Scholar of Advanced Appliantological Studies
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Posted: Wed May 7th, 2008 14:38 |
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A few yours ago , the last place I worked, we purchased from......Fisher & paykel Appliance Inc. Ltd.. 5900 Skylab road. Huntington Beach Ca. 92647 (949) 790-8900 Good luck.......keep us posted....
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jimlem
Apprentice Appliantologist
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Posted: Wed May 7th, 2008 15:59 |
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Well I ordered the parts from Sears direct instead of wasting more time. I also found a @20% off coupon code that i applied at check out. Parts are suppose to be here by next Wed.
Jim
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jimlem
Apprentice Appliantologist
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Posted: Thu May 15th, 2008 17:39 |
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Well I got my new PCB and wiring harness in and it went fairly well. Thank goodness for the manual!
I'm concerned that although I've replaced the bad parts, that there is still something wrong to make them go in the first place. I suspect a too tall of a plate in the bottom drawer to not allow the lid to close and water to leak out. Two reasons for this :1- there was some evidence of water inside the bottom clear wiring cover and 2- there was water in the cabinet floor.
I haven't fired it up yet as I thought Id read over the diagnostics and run thought any tests before I try a load of dishes.
Any thoughts or tips on what to do or watch for?
Thanks, Jim
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