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Bassoonman
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Posted: Wed Apr 23rd, 2008 11:31 |
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Greetings!
My 10-12 year old Jenn Air recently refused any further requests to do what it was hired to do. It began flashing code FC and making warning ding noises. Prior to this event, the downdraft fan had been acting strangely for several weeks by coming on and off on its own after it was requested to do its downdraft thing.
The information on the web I was able to find was that the FC code meant that either the wiring harness was a problem or commuication between boards was bad. A Sears technician came out and for $65 told me that "most likely" the relay board part number 12001691 needed replacement. For this board and for his labor he was going to charge me about $450 without a promise that this board was certainly the problem.
I've done some work on thiings in the past and thought I'd check on doing this myself and save a few $.
Any thoughts and/or suggestions? Should I assume his diagnosis is correct and go on to order the part and tackle this job?
Thanks!!
Bassoonman
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RegUS_PatOff
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Posted: Wed Apr 23rd, 2008 12:03 |
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from the Jenn Air SVE47600B Service Manual: 8 MB
FC: Communication error between boards. Check J2 harness, ok, replace PRB (Power Relay Board)
You could carefuly try to disconnect and re-seat those connections.
The service manual refers to the Power Relay Board for this error.
Although the Downdraft relay board controls the downdraft fan, the signal comes from the main Electronic Control Assembly, through the Power Relay Board, to the Downdraft Relay Board.
Any part ordered from RepairClinic can be returned within 30 for a refund (less shipping)
Electronic oven control assembly $ 148.90
click on picture
Power Relay Board $201.90
click on picture
Downdraft Relay Board $ 92.70
click on picture
Last edited on Wed Apr 23rd, 2008 14:00 by RegUS_PatOff
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Bassoonman
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Posted: Wed Apr 23rd, 2008 13:51 |
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Thanks so much for the quick reply!!
I will first try your suggestion to reseat the connections this coming weekend, if not before, and then report back with the findings to share with others for future reference and enlightenment.
Cheers!
Bassoonman
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Bassoonman
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Posted: Sat Apr 26th, 2008 12:07 |
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I am most impressed!!
Assuming the PRB was bad, I ordered a new one from RepairClinic and am waiting for it to arrive. When it does I will return it because the range is now fixed.
I followed your advice, opened the back of the range and reseated the J2 harness. I then opened the front panel and reseated the J2 harness there. I turned the power back on and no more FC error code.
Joining this forum was the best $5 I ever spent!
Thanks again!!
Bassoonman
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Trying to help
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Posted: Sat Apr 26th, 2008 13:33 |
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| The FC codes can be very intermittent and sometimes powering the unit down and removing power will cure it for a short period of time. Before you return the power relay board, put your unit on bake set for 400. If your cooling fan comes on prematurely (on this unit, your cooling fan should only come on in bake over 505 degrees) your power relay board will be bad. On a slide in range application such as this, the cooling fan will come on prematurely (around 250) if the board is blown. It will also cause intermittent failures such as FC, F- , F1 and intermittent Down Draft fan operation. The literature listed for the Jennair products on line can be very misleading. If your cooling fan is on prematurely, and the oven temps are within specs, your board on the back of the unit is shot.
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Bassoonman
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Posted: Sat Apr 26th, 2008 21:37 |
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OK, So I set the oven to bake 400 degrees and a fan kicked in at 230 degrees as it preheated (I assume it is the cooling fan?). Should I conclude that the board is blown even though everything else works as it should and replace it with the new board (which should arrive Monday)?
Thanks so much for the reply!!
Bassoonman
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Trying to help
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Posted: Sat Apr 26th, 2008 23:28 |
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| Your board is toast my Schell's Deer drinking friend. The literature for these units is spread far and wide. The units were designed in Indianapolis when Jennair was there own brand, bought out by Maytag then Whirlpool. There is not one engineer left from the projects. The fault guide published for this model is very vague and often misleading. First signs of board failure will be the cooling fan coming on around 225, like the unit thinks it is in a wall oven instead of a slide in range. Put the board in and you will be on your way.
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Bassoonman
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Posted: Sun Apr 27th, 2008 11:59 |
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Thanks so much! I will install the board when it arrives.
I considered replacing the J2 harness as well, but this was not suggested thus far and so I will hope that replacing the board will be sufficient.
Prost!
Bassoonman
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Bassoonman
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Posted: Tue May 6th, 2008 01:05 |
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Well, I finally got around to replacing the board. A few seconds after turning the power back on, the F-C error flashed along with the annoying warning "dong". Needless to say, my heart sank to my stomach!
Any further thoughts on this?
Since the cooling fan was coming on at 220 degrees, should I continue to assume the board is bad and go on to replace the J2 wiring harness? As I wrote in an earlier posting, when I reseated the J2 harness, the F-C error went away (but the fan continued to come on at 220 degrees).
I'm in need of a few Shell's Beers right now!
Bassoonman
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RegUS_PatOff
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Posted: Tue May 6th, 2008 01:27 |
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does the fan come on at 220F with the new board ?
harness ? (I don't know what that black bulge is in the center, fuse ?)
maybe you could carefully open yours and take a look.
click on picture
Last edited on Tue May 6th, 2008 04:20 by RegUS_PatOff
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Bassoonman
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Posted: Tue May 6th, 2008 01:32 |
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There is no power to the oven when the FC error is in effect. In fact, there is not even power to the oven light. So I am unable to test the cooling fan.
The black buldge on the J2 harness seems to be little more than a buldge to allow the harness to attach to a plastic securing connection. I carefully pulled the buldge off and it just revealed some black sticky electical tape wrapped around the wires. The buldge thing just slides over the tape. While the back cover was off I reseated the J2 harness as I did before, but this time it did not cause the FC error to disappear as it did the last time.
The stove top, however, does have power and works normally.
Bassoonman
Last edited on Tue May 6th, 2008 01:48 by Bassoonman
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Posted: Tue May 6th, 2008 03:47 |
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| The black bulge is a noise suppressor (Ferrite Bead). Your old board was bad because of the fan, no doubt. The FC is a communication error, that in itself does not tell you much because it can be caused by several things. Isolate the J2 harness away from all the other harnesses. If you look at the back of the unit, I believe there is another hole you can route the J2 harness in to get it away from all the other wires. Also, make sure you are seated at both the clock and PRB correctly, pin bent, harness off by one in either direction, etc. Do you live in the boonies where you have had or do have power problems? Not necessarily power outages but dirty line power? I have had FC codes caused by stray voltage coming in on the ground feeds to the unit and have solved one or two by switching L1 and L2 at the terminal block (Cleaner Leg).
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Bassoonman
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Posted: Tue May 6th, 2008 11:21 |
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Hi
We live right in town with good electrical service.
I isolated the J2 harness from the clock (where I again checked and carefully reseated the connection) to the PRB (where I also checked and carefully reseated the connection). I cleaned the terminal end of the J2 harness with electrical cleaner in the hopes that the connection was just dirty.
After power was restored, the FC errror came right back on.
Bassoonman
Last edited on Tue May 6th, 2008 11:24 by Bassoonman
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Trying to help
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Posted: Wed May 7th, 2008 19:49 |
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| You would want to ohm out the j2 harness from one end to the other to verify the integrity of the wire. We know your board was bad because of the cooling fan problems, you could have a bad harness and it is certainly not an expensive repair, but I would want to try and confirm it is bad.
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