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Sub Zero 561 Refrigerator  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Sat May 3rd, 2008 01:16 pm
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Are these temps. with the cold controls set mid-way or max. setting..... Do you have all the correct equipment to do the full  repair?  The oldest repair for using Super seal is three years ago and still going...It is like a radiator sealer, the sealer is still in your system flowing with refrierant, ready to seal leaks as they form....The can is 1 ounce in volume. If you use R-414a ......you use 80% of your recommended charge........I.E.  10 oz.   at 80% = 8 oz..  Acr is 1 oz..... Try  7 oz. of refrg...+ 1oz. ACR  is about correct. you will be watching the evaporator to make sure you get a fully frosted evaporator.. You may need to adjust  a bit  for the best results... Do not cut corners on the repair.... This repair in the real world  $300.00..   Normal evac and recharge is $250 but the ACR is about $50.00 a can..........On the flip side a new evaporator is a bout $100.00  that repair with evap replacement is $550.00                P.S. thanks for the temp. readings, now we know where we stand....freezer should be  O to +5 deg. the fresh food section should be 36 to 38 deg..

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 Posted: Sat May 3rd, 2008 02:43 pm
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The green wire (ground) to the dial in the refrigerator was broken, I fixed that.

I made 2 different attempts at monitoring the refrigerator. One day the setting was set to 7. Recently I set it to 10 and that's what you see in the pictures.

Attachment: DSC01685.JPG (Downloaded 127 times)

Last edited on Sat May 3rd, 2008 02:55 pm by sushimaster

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 Posted: Sat May 3rd, 2008 02:44 pm
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The evaporator coils in the refrigerator were completely bare. There was no ice buildup at all.

Attachment: DSC01688.JPG (Downloaded 126 times)

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 Posted: Sat May 3rd, 2008 02:44 pm
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The fan in the refrigerator side is working correctly.

Attachment: DSC01686.JPG (Downloaded 125 times)

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 Posted: Sat May 3rd, 2008 02:53 pm
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Where are the "cold controls" you are speaking of? There is obviously a dial in the refrigerator.

Also, the manual does not appear to show a small relay and piece of copper below the lower left hinge on the fridge to the left of the drain pan.

Do you know what that is or what it does?

Attachment: DSC01696.JPG (Downloaded 124 times)

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 Posted: Sat May 3rd, 2008 06:46 pm
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That the valve for your ice maker... The cold controls are in your last post/ picture. Tells the comressors when to cycle on /off.  I the one pic. you said ice build up, you want a frosted evap.

Last edited on Sat May 3rd, 2008 06:48 pm by certified tech group 51

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 Posted: Mon May 5th, 2008 11:30 am
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I played with the freezer settings some more. I turned it up from 1 to 5. The temperature dropped to 18 degrees overnight.

As for the refrigerator, the best it has done is 54 degrees now at a setting of 10.

I also put all of the shelves into both sides to see if that improved the air flow and subsequently the temperature.

... My question is, what are the small nozzles on the end of each of the compressors? Is that where I would recharge the system?

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 Posted: Mon May 5th, 2008 01:16 pm
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The freezer side has settled at 18 degrees Farenheight with a setting of 5.

Attachment: DSC01706.JPG (Downloaded 112 times)

Last edited on Mon May 5th, 2008 01:18 pm by sushimaster

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 Posted: Mon May 5th, 2008 01:34 pm
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If you mean the short stubs that have a tire fitting for air on the end?  That is a 'Schrader type valve" at the end, that is where the factory charged the system to start with....  To do this job correctly do you have all of the correct equipment????  You will need a torch capable of temps. up to 1800 deg..  vacuum pump,  four way manifold, (with hoses) O-zi bag to catch old refig. ( Not much in system.. but being a certifed tech. I'm suppose to follow all the regs.) ,  charging scale,  (weight or dial-a-charge)  all the various hand tools,  connectors  I.E.   new filter dryer, (with access port),  tank of dry nitrgen (if you want to check for leaks)  AND most of all the correct refrierant, you will need a E.P.A. certificate or someone who can aquire said refrigerant........I think your data plate stated 8 oz.  of charge...... also minor things that help.... welding bankets,  cooling rags (to cool down your welds)  spray bottle of water.... and just incase a fire exstinguisher........  AS for the freezer side you can dial the temp. in  better, up one setting on  freezer cold control.    If you just want to add to the system , you will still need all the equipment,   but the dry nitrgon  and the torch......(plus a few less tools),   add for a fully frosted evap....... If a customer want this job performed,  I would inform them NO  warranty on how long this will last.. there  could be trapped contaminants still in the system.....

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 Posted: Mon May 5th, 2008 03:10 pm
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I don't have any of the toys except for the fire extinguisher... :)

There is an appliance guy that I have used to fix other appliances, but he said he did not service Sub Zero. I could probably convince him to do the work for me though since I've been his customer for 6 years.

Last edited on Mon May 5th, 2008 03:26 pm by sushimaster

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 Posted: Mon May 12th, 2008 01:59 am
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So you're never gonna believe this one. I went to the auto parts store and picked up an R-12 to R-134a conversion kit for about $20. I hooked it up to the nozzle on the refrigerator compressor and gave it a few squirts up to 25psi. I couldn't tell if I actually put anything in or not, so I screwed the cap back on the nozzle and went to do other stuff for the day.

About four hours later I was moving some frozen water bottles to the fridge side to thaw out. I picked up some of the Mike's Hard Lemonade and it was cold! What!? I looked at the thermometer and it said 32 degrees. Cool!

So I cleaned the unit up a bit more and the ground wire for the 2 compressors came loose. I tightened that back up and put the top on and the front grill.

The freezer is reading about 0-2 degrees right now.

The refrigerator is now reading 42 degrees. Also, the fans in either side do not appear to be running at all.

Did this box go into sleep mode?

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 Posted: Mon May 12th, 2008 02:31 am
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Condenser fan runs constantly.

Each evporator fan is controlled by it's cold control.

 

Last edited on Mon May 12th, 2008 03:45 am by RegUS_PatOff



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 Posted: Mon May 12th, 2008 11:10 am
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This morning I measured the following:

Freezer: 4 degrees F (Set on 7)
Refrigerator: 34 degrees F (Set on 8)

-Chris

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 Posted: Thu May 15th, 2008 02:32 pm
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Last night I measured the following:

Freezer: 0 degrees F (Set on 7)
Refrigerator: 30 degrees F (Set on 7)

The condenser fan continues to run all of the time. What do I need to fix in order to get this to stop? Or does it need to run all of the time. If that is the case, then is it possible to run a more power efficient fan on it?

-Chris

Last edited on Thu May 15th, 2008 02:34 pm by sushimaster

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 Posted: Thu May 15th, 2008 02:56 pm
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sushimaster wrote: ... The condenser fan continues to run all of the time. What do I need to fix in order to get this to stop? Or does it need to run all of the time. If that is the case, then is it possible to run a more power efficient fan on it?


The Condenser Fan on the early 561's ran all the time.

The later 561's used a dual coil Fan Relay that powered the fan only when either compressor was running.


click on picture  (link fixed)



You could use a dual coil relay or (2) single coil relays.

Last edited on Mon Oct 27th, 2008 02:00 pm by RegUS_PatOff



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 Posted: Mon Oct 27th, 2008 01:29 pm
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Thank you. I have been meaning to get to that. :)

Also, I noticed during the summer that condensation (to the point of dripping water) was building up in the upper right corner of the fridge near the overhead light. Also, there appears to be some condensation that accumulates underneath the glass shelves.

Is this an issue with the seal around the door or something else?

Last edited on Mon Oct 27th, 2008 01:29 pm by sushimaster

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 Posted: Mon Oct 27th, 2008 01:31 pm
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Where specifically does this relay go? This fridge weighs a ton! I want to make sure I don't have to move it if possible before I install this part. :)

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 Posted: Mon Oct 27th, 2008 01:53 pm
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sushimaster wrote:
...Also, I noticed during the summer that condensation (to the point of dripping water) was building up in the upper right corner of the fridge near the overhead light. Also, there appears to be some condensation that accumulates underneath the glass shelves.

Is this an issue with the seal around the door or something else?

That would be the first thing to check.

Try the Dollar Bill test, run a dollar bill around the entire Door Gasket.

It should be a little snug.

 

 

sushimaster wrote:
Where specifically does this relay go? ..above the Fridge, between the 2 Compressors.

If it's the newer Dual Coil Relay (so that the Evaporator Fan dosen't run all the Time), you'll have to do some re-wiring.



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 Posted: Tue Dec 2nd, 2008 12:00 am
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I've been searching for a manual for my 532 Sub-Zero fridge.  Is there any chance you could email me your .pdf file?  Thanks a million!
Steve 

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 Posted: Tue Dec 2nd, 2008 12:11 am
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if you could send me your email address ..



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