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Amana B136CAL1 Refrigerator problems  Rating:  Rating
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 Posted: Mon Aug 4th, 2008 06:14 pm
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himeros

 

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US knows more about this ref than I do, so I will back out and let the expert carry on.  There are too many things going on for me to be able to give you advice on what to do next.  If things were working, all the coils should have a nice coating of frost, unless it went into the defrost cycle by it's self just before you looked at it.  When you get the fan to run, that might take care of the problem of frost back to the compressor, you are having now.  It sounds like the circuit board is bad, but if you replace it, will it then give you some service, or is there other problems to solve?  Good luck.

Himeros

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 Posted: Mon Aug 4th, 2008 06:26 pm
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Thanks,

I went ahead and ordered the board. Supposed to be here in 2 days, so I guess we will see then.

 

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 Posted: Mon Aug 4th, 2008 06:31 pm
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what switch was it that caused the sparks ?

himeros wrote: ... or is there other problems to solve?  Good luck..

himeros is right, there may be other problems, hard to diagnose from here...

It may be possible to test the Compressor and Fans if you disconnected the HV Board and connected the Compressor and Fans (E2 & E4 wires)  to the BK (120v Hot) (E10 wire)connection.

Last edited on Mon Aug 4th, 2008 06:45 pm by RegUS_PatOff



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 Posted: Mon Aug 4th, 2008 06:44 pm
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I think the switch is called "Dealer Option" or something like that. It is there to let everything look normal whlie on display, but not run compressor etc. I can hear the compressor running today and sounds smooth. The line I reported last night as being thick with frost, is not just barely covered in frost. The evaporator coils are still clear of frost since my "manual" defrost took place last night. The voltages are what they are. My meter is a good Fluke and I double checked it on a known source. Term E7 to GRD (E11) is only 5vac with lights on and no real change with light off. The board has to be at least part of the problem here, right...?

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 Posted: Mon Aug 4th, 2008 06:55 pm
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v8_ranch wrote: ... Term E7 to GRD (E11) ...
to GRD (E11) ?

It may be better to double check (E7) to Neutral (E9) in case your house wiring/outlet may be reversed

Last edited on Mon Aug 4th, 2008 06:56 pm by RegUS_PatOff



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 Posted: Mon Aug 4th, 2008 08:53 pm
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Well now I am feeling stupid and confused.

The power supply to this board comes in on E10 and E9, correct. When I measured before, I got my readings that I reported measuring from the terminal on board to the other terminal... with the leads lifted. I was under the impression this should be an output from the board. Was I wrong? When I just checked E7 to E9, I get nothing terminal to terminal, but wire to wire, and wire to ground, I get the 120, and 0 when the light switch is made up. Can someone clarify the proper way for me to check this please? It will be difficult to measure voltage with these wires in place.

 

Thanks

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 Posted: Mon Aug 4th, 2008 09:32 pm
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Correct... Line in on E9 & E10

Must measure voltages with Terminals connected.

E7 & E8 are inputs from the Light Switches



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 Posted: Mon Aug 4th, 2008 09:36 pm
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OK, I will check again

 

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 Posted: Mon Aug 4th, 2008 09:42 pm
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OK, shoot. Looks like E7 and E8 are OK as far as voltage with wires connected (115vac with lights on in respective areas, 0vac with lights off)

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 Posted: Mon Aug 4th, 2008 09:57 pm
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OK, now this is weird... I went to double check my readings and made sure all the wires were seated on the terminals when done. I opened the freezer door again (having just opened it 10-15 minutes earlier with no fan running) nad NOW, the stinking fan is running. In fact, it stays running with the door open. I thought it was supposed to turn off whent he light switch is depressed. Did I miss something? I am not sure what to make of things now, unless I have/had some weird loose connection on tyhe HVPC board... But now what should I be checking ot make sure things are going to run right.

Let me end by saying, I really appreciate the help. I have had 6 service techs over here in the last couple of years form the 3 top appliance places here (the ones that sell the high end stuff) and none of them has been able to really get this thing sorted out well. That is why I must struggle through this learning curve or pay for a new one, which is not my preferred option right now.

Thanks

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 Posted: Mon Aug 4th, 2008 10:54 pm
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Fan is still running... Evaporator is starting to frost over now

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 Posted: Tue Aug 5th, 2008 12:20 am
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so.. are the Evaporator Coils even frosted, or only near one end, or clogged ?

Is the Evaporator Fan still running ?

Is the Condenser Fan runing (when the Compressor runs) ?

How long does the Compressor run ? 33%  50%  100%

What's the temperature in the Freezer ?

What's the temperature in the Fridge in a glass of water.

Leave the glass of water in the Fridge to check the temperature at different times...



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 Posted: Tue Aug 5th, 2008 01:08 am
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Evap fan still running. Evap coils are evenly frosted over. Not sure on temps, will have to get a thermometer. Seems colder in freezer now though. Not sure how often the compressor is running. Could I watch it over an hour and average it out? The condenser fan runs and blows well when compressor is running.

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 Posted: Tue Aug 5th, 2008 01:13 am
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yes, an hour should be enough time, unless it just came out of defrost...



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 Posted: Tue Aug 5th, 2008 03:48 am
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I got home from the store (went to buy a thermometer!)... As I was gettting thermometer out, I heard the compressor kick on. I opened the freezer door to find that the evap coils were completely thawed again. The fan was off, but it also kicked on again (evap fan). The condenser fan is blowing well as well. Have kept an eye on it the last 1-2 hours and the compressor and both fans have run the whole time. After about 30-45 minutes the freezer temp was about 32 degs, and it has not budged from there in since. I have not been able to check my glass of water in the fridge though. Should I bring home a set of gages tomorrow? Anything else I should be checking electrically. I was thinking the evap fan was supposed to kick off when thr freezer light came on... am I off on that?

Thanks again

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 Posted: Tue Aug 5th, 2008 04:02 am
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It may have just completed a Defrost Cycle when you got home...

and may then run for 1 or 2 hours straight...

but how does the Evaporator Coils look then after an hour or two ?

Evaporator Fan may turn off when the Freezer Door is opened.

and make sure all the lights turn off as you close the Doors (not just push the switches)

 



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 Posted: Tue Aug 5th, 2008 01:18 pm
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UPDATE...

 

I got up this morining at 5:30 and checked on things. The evap coils were defrosted again and the compressor and both fans were not running. Temp in freezer had gotten up to between 40-50 degs. About 5 minutes later as I was getting ready to walk out, the compressor and both fans kicked on again. At 9am they were all still running and the evap coils have nice even frost over them. Freezer temp is 28degs.

Refrigerator temp (not in the water, just in the compartment area) is 44 degs. This needs to be cooler as well, right? My settings right now are max cold on both freezer and fridge.

This thing is supposed to defrost every 8 hours or so right? So what I described above sounds like it could be normal operation. If I am correct in my understanding though, the freezer should get much lower than 28 degs. Is that correct? Also, I am still trying to figure out the evap fan, as my understanding at this point is that it is supposed to kick off when you open the drawer and the freezer light comes on. Is that not right?

Oh, I verified that all lights are turning off when door/drawer are shut.

Thanks

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 Posted: Tue Aug 5th, 2008 01:38 pm
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interesting: Amana B136CAL1 Service Bulletin (may depend on serial number)

repost: Amana B136CAL1 Service Manual 

 



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 Posted: Tue Aug 5th, 2008 02:03 pm
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Thanks... my switched are operating normally. I guess I need to get the set of gages out and see what I have now. Thanks for the manual. This one looks to have even more info than the other one.

 

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 Posted: Wed Aug 6th, 2008 04:25 am
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oy vey...

Please tell me I did not completely screwup by listening to a friend who has worked on these in a past life and meant to help...

I was talking to my friend about everything going on to this point. He said it sounded at this point (from results as of last night) that I needed a shot of freon, but it also sounded like I may have a leak. He told me to get a 12oz can of freon (R134a) with the leak detector in it and charge it to the unit (low side of compressor).

Here is  the rub. There is no sign of leaks anywhere still. However, ever since trying to charge this can, the pressure on low side has not come below ~28 psi... in fact is is kind of oscillating between 28 and 32 which I have not seen it do to this point. It started at 10 psi before I charged with freon. The freezer temp started out at about 50 and now an hour later, it is finally in the freezing zone (compressor and both fans have been running non-stop). It also does not sound as though the can is completely empty. I can hear a little bit of liquid if I move it.

 

Anything else I can do at this point?:yikes:

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