- Home


Air Conditioners | Dehumidifiers | Dishwashers | Disposals | Dryers | Freezers | Humidifiers | Ice Makers | Microwave Ovens | Ovens, Ranges, Stoves | Refrigerators | Trash Compactors | Washers | Water Filters

FAQs | Contact | Apprenticeship | Parts | Model Number Help | Newsletter | Beer

Find Appliance Parts & Diagrams Here
Enter a model number, part number, type of appliance, brand, or even a part description.

365-day return policy on all parts ordered through this site!


 Moderated by: BrntToast, RegUS_PatOff, appl.tech.29501 Search Our Sites for More Info! Page:    1  2  3  Next Page Last Page  
New Topic Reply Printer Friendly
Amana B136CAL1 Refrigerator problems  Rating:  Rating
AuthorPost
 Posted: Sun Feb 24th, 2008 10:19 pm
  PM Quote Reply
1st Post
v8_ranch
Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
 

Joined: Mon Apr 9th, 2007
Location:  
Posts: 37
Flavorite Brew: i don't drink
Status: 
Offline
I have an older Amana B136CAL1 bottom mount built-in refridgerator. I have been having a problem that no service tech in my area seems to be able to fix. Actually it is more than one problem, but maybe both are related.

The defrost tray under the freezer drawer stays filled with water and typically runs our slowly unless we empty it in the sink. They thought maybe the freon was low and evacuated the system nd recharged it. It did not help.

The other problem is the freezer sometimes does not keep things frozen very well. Things will not totally thaw out, but will not freeze totally either... ice cream gets very soft and ice wil melt. Like I said, this is not always the case. I cannot place any kind of frequency on it either.

I have had the high dollar appliance sales places send their best techs out, actually more than one from each of them. No one seems to be able to figure this out. I hate to chuck the fridge. I did find tonight that Viking apparently bought the design from Amana and call their model the DFBB363. I think they still sell it. So I am hoping parts can still be got for mine.

Anyone have any ideas?

Back To Top PM Quote Reply  

 Posted: Sun Feb 24th, 2008 10:24 pm
  PM Quote Reply
2nd Post
RegUS_PatOff
Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology


Joined: Sat Sep 24th, 2005
Location: Milwaukee, Wisconsin USA
Posts: 16509
Flavorite Brew: Indian Head. Black & White
Status: 
Offline
how long does the compressor run ?

how long does it stay off ?



CORRECTION 

 
Amana B136CAL1 Technical Information

Last edited on Mon Aug 4th, 2008 01:21 am by RegUS_PatOff



____________________
The new repair forums==> http://appliantology.org
Back To Top PM Quote Reply

 Posted: Sun Feb 24th, 2008 11:00 pm
  PM Quote Reply
3rd Post
FREONBOB
Master Appliantologist
 

Joined: Wed Feb 20th, 2008
Location: STRAWBERRY, Arizona USA
Posts: 34
Flavorite Brew: COFFEE
Status: 
Offline
NEED MORE INFO . YOU SAID YOU RECHARGED IT . WITH WHAT ?  the system calls for r12  . what did you use ?     what are your system reading  high and low PSIG  what where the box temps at these readings  .   after stopping the evap and refrig box fan and running just the compressor and cond fan   for 10 mins  what where your readings  , what is the frost pattern .  after the coil frosted over ( defrost bimetal closed ) with a clamp on amp meter check the defrost heater , is it drawing amps  .   CHECK IT OUT AND GET BACK TO US 



Back To Top PM Quote Reply  

 Posted: Sun Feb 24th, 2008 11:15 pm
  PM Quote Reply
4th Post
appl.tech.29501
Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology


Joined: Sun Oct 7th, 2007
Location: South Carolina USA
Posts: 6784
Flavorite Brew: waffle house coffee
Status: 
Offline
Generally an over flowing drain pan is an indication of a condensor fan not working or not turning fast enough....which woyuld also cause the cooling issue.

The unit could also be going into defrost prematurely dumping excessive amounts of water into the pan and the fan cant compensate for it which would also cause the cooling issue.

There could also be an air leak causing excessive amounts of water and a cooling issue but as many techs as you have said came out, one of them would have caught that....I hope :yikes:

Have they replaced any other parts?



____________________
If you would like to make a donation you may do so at the link below

http://homepage.mac.com/zenzoidman/appl.tech.29501/
Back To Top PM Quote Reply

 Posted: Mon Feb 25th, 2008 09:47 pm
  PM Quote Reply
5th Post
v8_ranch
Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
 

Joined: Mon Apr 9th, 2007
Location:  
Posts: 37
Flavorite Brew: i don't drink
Status: 
Offline
sorry about my sporadic information. I was trying to recall from memory a lot of that stuff but that can be bad...

I think that the firsst tech replaced and expansion valve? and then recharged it. I can only guess that he recharged it properly with R12. I will have to try to dig up the receipt.

One other issue is that the coils underneath the freezer that are directly above the water tray do not get hot at all. Are they supposed to?

One final thing is that somewhere in my mind I am remembering someone saying something about this model that might have had an issue with something that could possibly cause these problems. That is clear as mud, eh? Do any of you know of any service letters or bulletins that may pertain to some fault on these units?

 

Thanks guys. I will try to get some more information that makes more sense soon.

Back To Top PM Quote Reply  

 Posted: Mon Feb 25th, 2008 11:14 pm
  PM Quote Reply
6th Post
appl.tech.29501
Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology


Joined: Sun Oct 7th, 2007
Location: South Carolina USA
Posts: 6784
Flavorite Brew: waffle house coffee
Status: 
Offline
The condensor coils will not be warm all the time, only after the compressor has been running for about 10 min. if you have a gas leak then normally the coils will not get warm. Then warming of the coils is part of the cooling process. Then fan underneath helps keep the coils and compressor moderate.



____________________
If you would like to make a donation you may do so at the link below

http://homepage.mac.com/zenzoidman/appl.tech.29501/
Back To Top PM Quote Reply

 Posted: Tue Feb 26th, 2008 11:05 pm
  PM Quote Reply
7th Post
himeros

 

Joined: Wed Nov 7th, 2007
Location:  
Posts: 312
Flavorite Brew: beer
Status: 
Offline
Where to start?  Why not try this,  remove any panel that cover the compressor, unplug the refrigerator for about 45 minutes.  Turn the cold control to max on, and plug it back in.  While you are in the back of the ref, check to see if the compressor comes on without making any clicking or unusual noise, there should be a small steady hum if it is running.  Now check to see if the fan that sets back there is running steady, and there is no build of of dust or lint blocking the air flow.  If all that is good, open the freezer door to make sure the fan inside is running.  Now go to the back again, and check the small tube coming out of the compressor that goes to the condenser coil, it should be very warm to the touch after a few minutes.   We can only guess what service was performed, but it could have been the dryer was replaced, and unit recharged with something.  Give us some feedback on what I have posted, and we will better understand the problem.

H.

Back To Top PM Quote Reply  

 Posted: Mon Aug 4th, 2008 12:45 am
  PM Quote Reply
8th Post
v8_ranch
Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
 

Joined: Mon Apr 9th, 2007
Location:  
Posts: 37
Flavorite Brew: i don't drink
Status: 
Offline
Wow, been a year now and the frige was actually working decently, and then. wammo!

I had a new tech out a couple of times.

 

The symptoms:
  • freezer will not freeze. I do not know actual temp, but I had a plastic bottle of coke in there for a week and it feels like it has been ina noice fridge!
  • Fridge is not as cold as it should be, but the way I understand the flow of this model, that is due to the freezer not working right.
Called a new tech and this is what we found on first trip out:
  • He checked with gages and said the thing was in a vacuum. He said he checked for leaks and could not really find any signs but did find some cap where you hook up the gages was not on tight at all. He recharged with R12 and you could see the fan blowing out cold air into the freezer area. Everything seem to freeze properly again.
3 weeks goes by and my new-found hope is shattered! The freezer is not freezingf again. But it was going in a cycle. Everything would melt, and then the next day it would be frozen again. Called gthe tech back out and he checked things out and found the coils behind the back wall on freezer were frosted up pretty bad and the fan in the freezer area will not run.

He hooked up the gages and found the thing in a vacuum again. He turned it off and let it sit for a while. He said the dryer was cool to teh touch adn should be hot. Her seemed to think this might be part of the problem and said there as probably a blockage in the dryer. He never explained why this effected the freezer fan though. Anyway, he put a heat gun on the dryer for a while. All this time he was watching his gage with the unit off, it VERY slowly climbed up to about 30psi after he applied the heat to the dryer. Then when he turned it back on, the thing would slowly but steadily drop to 5 psi and seemed to stay there. He told me this is where it is supposed to be. No additional freon was added. Current status is as described earlier: the whole unit feels like an OK fridge, but no freezing. Teh fan in the back of freezer still does not work and the coils in back of freezer have never defrosted.

I am trying to salvage this thing if at all possible. I am regretting ever buying a built in model now, but I really can't afford to replace it with a new unit that will fit properly. Plus we will be moving soon and I would much rather sell a house with a working fridge.freezer if possible.

Any help will be greatly appreciated. I have access to gages if I need them. Just not sure where to go from here.

Back To Top PM Quote Reply

 Posted: Mon Aug 4th, 2008 01:22 am
  PM Quote Reply
9th Post
RegUS_PatOff
Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology


Joined: Sat Sep 24th, 2005
Location: Milwaukee, Wisconsin USA
Posts: 16509
Flavorite Brew: Indian Head. Black & White
Status: 
Offline
Amana B136CAL1 Technical Information



____________________
The new repair forums==> http://appliantology.org
Back To Top PM Quote Reply  

 Posted: Mon Aug 4th, 2008 01:25 am
  PM Quote Reply
10th Post
himeros

 

Joined: Wed Nov 7th, 2007
Location:  
Posts: 312
Flavorite Brew: beer
Status: 
Offline
Here is what I think, when the freezer fan does not work, the unit will go in to a vacuum.  System pressure will slowly go up when the unit is off, even if you don't apply heat to the dryer.  The dryer may get cool to the touch when the compressor first shuts off.  5 lbs on the low side it too high, and will probably  frost back to the compressor if left that way.  The first thing you need to do is get the freezer fan to working, check voltage at your fan motor, replace the motor, or repair the fan problem.  When you get the fan to working, then you can check to see if the unit gets warm and defrosts everything in the freezer, and then go back to freezing normally again.   You almost have too many things going on to tell what is happening.  Sounds like you may have a system leak, freezer fan not working, may have moisture in your system causing freezer section  to defrost everything, and then start working again later.  What area of the US are you in, perhaps someone here might be able to help you?

Himeros  

Back To Top PM Quote Reply

 Posted: Mon Aug 4th, 2008 01:34 am
  PM Quote Reply
11th Post
v8_ranch
Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
 

Joined: Mon Apr 9th, 2007
Location:  
Posts: 37
Flavorite Brew: i don't drink
Status: 
Offline
I am sorry, but I made one mistake. It was 134a that was charged to it.

As I was was looking up there above just now, I feel a good flow of air from the top area (compressor, dryer area etc). But I noticed that what the guy told me was the dryer, is now almost cold again, AND, if you look straight on at the compressor, the line coming out of the top right side, is frosted up pretty good, maybe 2 inches out and 1/2 inch thick almost

Back To Top PM Quote Reply  

 Posted: Mon Aug 4th, 2008 01:36 am
  PM Quote Reply
12th Post
v8_ranch
Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
 

Joined: Mon Apr 9th, 2007
Location:  
Posts: 37
Flavorite Brew: i don't drink
Status: 
Offline
himeros wrote: Here is what I think, when the freezer fan does not work, the unit will go in to a vacuum.  System pressure will slowly go up when the unit is off, even if you don't apply heat to the dryer.  The dryer may get cool to the touch when the compressor first shuts off.  5 lbs on the low side it too high, and will probably  frost back to the compressor if left that way.  The first thing you need to do is get the freezer fan to working, check voltage at your fan motor, replace the motor, or repair the fan problem.  When you get the fan to working, then you can check to see if the unit gets warm and defrosts everything in the freezer, and then go back to freezing normally again.   You almost have too many things going on to tell what is happening.  Sounds like you may have a system leak, freezer fan not working, may have moisture in your system causing freezer section  to defrost everything, and then start working again later.  What area of the US are you in, perhaps someone here might be able to help you?

Himeros  


I am in Western Tennessee - Jackson. About 1 hour east of Memphis on I-40.

Back To Top PM Quote Reply

 Posted: Mon Aug 4th, 2008 01:39 am
  PM Quote Reply
13th Post
v8_ranch
Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
 

Joined: Mon Apr 9th, 2007
Location:  
Posts: 37
Flavorite Brew: i don't drink
Status: 
Offline
himeros, is there a typical failure mode of these fans. Teh tech that was here kept saying it probably was not running because of the evaporatoir being frozen over, but it seemed like he was stretching to me. What kind of voltage should I have at the fan, and is there a particular way to check it - meaning, when shoudl it have voltage to it?

Thanks for your help. I think you are right in that I should focus on this fan first. Never had a problem with it before...

Back To Top PM Quote Reply  

 Posted: Mon Aug 4th, 2008 02:02 am
  PM Quote Reply
14th Post
RegUS_PatOff
Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology


Joined: Sat Sep 24th, 2005
Location: Milwaukee, Wisconsin USA
Posts: 16509
Flavorite Brew: Indian Head. Black & White
Status: 
Offline
according to the Technical Information posted above,

Condenser Fan & Evaporater Fans are 115vAC

 



____________________
The new repair forums==> http://appliantology.org
Back To Top PM Quote Reply

 Posted: Mon Aug 4th, 2008 02:16 am
  PM Quote Reply
15th Post
v8_ranch
Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
 

Joined: Mon Apr 9th, 2007
Location:  
Posts: 37
Flavorite Brew: i don't drink
Status: 
Offline
OK<

with the compressor running, I get 24VAC, and the is with the light switch made or not made... So now then I guess the question is why. For giggles, I checked the resistance across the thermistor and it showed dead on with the assumed temp at this point (it is pretty much room temp - 70 and 36500 ohms).

 

Back To Top PM Quote Reply  

 Posted: Mon Aug 4th, 2008 02:43 am
  PM Quote Reply
16th Post
v8_ranch
Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
 

Joined: Mon Apr 9th, 2007
Location:  
Posts: 37
Flavorite Brew: i don't drink
Status: 
Offline
:?

OK< Iam starting to wonder if my high voltage board is messed up.

I had checked the fan supply voltage and it was only 29VAC with light swith on and it drops to 18 with it off. So I checked the high voltage board term 7 to ground with fridge light on and off... no change either way, and voltage was only 5VAC with the light on or off. Did the same thing on the freezer with term 8 to grd, and it was same at 5VAC with the light on or off. The manual that was sent to me says these should be 115VAC with lights on, and 0VAC with lights off.

Am I heading in the right direction?

Last edited on Mon Aug 4th, 2008 03:03 am by v8_ranch

Back To Top PM Quote Reply

 Posted: Mon Aug 4th, 2008 03:45 pm
  PM Quote Reply
17th Post
v8_ranch
Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
 

Joined: Mon Apr 9th, 2007
Location:  
Posts: 37
Flavorite Brew: i don't drink
Status: 
Offline
anybody out there today...

Back To Top PM Quote Reply  

 Posted: Mon Aug 4th, 2008 03:59 pm
  PM Quote Reply
18th Post
RegUS_PatOff
Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology


Joined: Sat Sep 24th, 2005
Location: Milwaukee, Wisconsin USA
Posts: 16509
Flavorite Brew: Indian Head. Black & White
Status: 
Offline
v8_ranch wrote: ... starting to wonder if my high voltage board is messed up...

It would seem to be...



____________________
The new repair forums==> http://appliantology.org
Back To Top PM Quote Reply

 Posted: Mon Aug 4th, 2008 04:10 pm
  PM Quote Reply
19th Post
v8_ranch
Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
 

Joined: Mon Apr 9th, 2007
Location:  
Posts: 37
Flavorite Brew: i don't drink
Status: 
Offline
Is there any other component that could cause the bad readings off the board. It is only a $125 I think, but I am tired of throwing money at this fridge for things that do not help.:yikes:

 

Anyway, one more thing that happened last night as I was lookign over things before going to bed, I noticed the switch for the display mode at the top right of the HV board. I switched it to the left without powering the whole fridge down and zap!. Sparks flew and it tripped the breaker in my dist panel. It did not look like any permanent physical damage, no I turned fridge off at top right button, and then reset breaker. Came in and turned it back on and everything seems OK. Still not right on the voltages on that board, but the freezer is defintely cooler this morning and the coils on evaporator are still not frosted over after my manual defrost last night...

Anything else I should check on this board then before replacing it?

Back To Top PM Quote Reply  

 Posted: Mon Aug 4th, 2008 04:11 pm
  PM Quote Reply
20th Post
v8_ranch
Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
 

Joined: Mon Apr 9th, 2007
Location:  
Posts: 37
Flavorite Brew: i don't drink
Status: 
Offline
Oh, and thank you for the link to the service tech manual. That really came in handy last night!

Back To Top PM Quote Reply

Current time is 06:16 am Tell a friend about this page... all your other friends are doing it! Page:    1  2  3  Next Page Last Page    
- > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Kitchen Appliance Repair Forum > Amana B136CAL1 Refrigerator problems Top



Find Appliance Parts & Diagrams Here
Enter a model number, part number, type of appliance, brand, or even a part description.

365-day return policy on all parts ordered through this site!

FAQs | Contact | Apprenticeship | Parts | Model Number Help | Newsletter | Beer

Your Sometimes-Lucid Host:
- Home
"If I can't help you fix your appliance and make you 100% satisfied, I will come to your home and slice open my belly, spilling my steaming entrails onto your floor."


UltraBB 1.17 Copyright © 2007-2008 Data 1 Systems
Page processed in 0.1290 seconds (10% database + 90% PHP). 27 queries executed.

Web Analytics