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billccm
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Posted: Sat Feb 23rd, 2008 18:09 |
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Hello All:
I have a six year old KitchenAid Dishwasher KUDR01TJBL0, serial FL5125226.
It is a very mediocre product, but that is a subject for another day.
What I am experiencing is flaking of black, crusty coatings from the heating element. It seems to be cracking off and blasting itself throughout the dishwasher.
I have researched this issue, and it seems that the 'round' elements are the issue, and Whirlpool has an upgrade kit.
So, kind experts, is this all I need to fix my problem? Is it a job I can tackle in a Saturday afternoon, or shall I call a service company?
Finally, do you recommend that I cut my loss on this very mediocre product and invest in a new Bosch dishwasher?
Sincere thanks for your time in replying, and have a nice day,
Bill
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RegUS_PatOff
Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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Posted: Sat Feb 23rd, 2008 18:14 |
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the new upgrade kit includes a new controller
click on picture
 Last edited on Sat Feb 23rd, 2008 18:15 by RegUS_PatOff
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billccm
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Posted: Sat Feb 23rd, 2008 18:42 |
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Is this something I can do myself?
Thanks, Bill
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RegUS_PatOff
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Posted: Sun Feb 24th, 2008 03:32 |
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| KUDR01TJ Service Manual Last edited on Sun Feb 24th, 2008 03:35 by RegUS_PatOff
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RegUS_PatOff
Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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Posted: Sun Feb 24th, 2008 03:32 |
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| . Last edited on Sun Feb 24th, 2008 03:35 by RegUS_PatOff
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appl.tech.29501
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Posted: Sun Feb 24th, 2008 15:54 |
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| It's not that bad of a job, but you will have to pull the dishwasher at least half way out of the cabinet to remove and install the element.
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billccm
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Posted: Sun Mar 2nd, 2008 22:25 |
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Well, I finished the job today, but need to let you in on my troubles.
I pulled the dishwasher, swapped the element and circuit board, and reinstalled in less than 30 minutes.
Pushed the 'NORMAL' button, then 'START'.
Panel lights, but nothing happens. No water flow-NOTHING.
I take the panel off; check all connections. Ohm out the door switch. Reassemble.
Pushed the 'NORMAL' button, then 'START'.
Panel lights, but nothing happens. No water flow-NOTHING.
I noticed a small piece of plastic near the door latch handle. I pull it out. It is a piece of plastic boss screw mount from the front panel.
Dishwasher starts and runs.
This piece was jamming up the door switch.
Now, a few questions:
1) The dishwasher runs LONGER now than before. It also fill funny in that some water will fill, then purge, then fill, and run. I assume this is the new program, and is normal?
2) Do I (or should I) order a new console assembly (part number 8269945)?
Thanks again for your help and support!
Take care,
Bill
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appl.tech.29501
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Posted: Mon Mar 3rd, 2008 01:18 |
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| The new control board will act a little different, suppose to be and improved upgrade. As far as ordering a new console (I am assuming because of the broken piece for the screw) I wouldn't worry about it as long as the console is still secure.
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billccm
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Posted: Wed Mar 5th, 2008 02:37 |
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Thanks for the info. The console seems secure. I will leave well enough for now.
Just as an FYI; I use NORMAL, SANI RINSE, ENERGY SAVING DRY as my 'default' mode. The dishwasher seems to run about 40 minutes longer, BUT I will admit that the top shelf items seem cleaner, and I even noticed the stainless steel tub shines a bit more after cycle. The 'sensor soak' light seems to not say on as long as before, yet the wash time seems longer????
I should mention that I took Samurai's suggestion and switched to SHAKLEE Auto Dish detergent powder. It seems more expensive at first, but you use so much less, and get much less 'reject' dishes that you probably break even with Cascade's cost.
Thanks again for the help,
Bill
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Scottthewolf
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Posted: Wed Mar 5th, 2008 03:08 |
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Don't kid yourself, Bosch dishwashers aren't much more reliable, they are just really quiet and they don't have an exposed heating element. They are also harder to fix. Even replacing door springs involves pulling the unit completely out from under the counter and turning the unit on it's back.
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