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- > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Kitchen Appliance Repair Forum > Maytag CHG 9800 AAB oven won't fire up in bake mode

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Maytag CHG 9800 AAB oven won't fire up in bake mode  Rating:  Rating
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 Posted: Sat Feb 23rd, 2008 03:29 pm
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Nearly Nutz
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We have an older Maytag gas range which was beeping F1 fault errors over and over. Using Samurai's wisdom, we changed the temp sensor over a month ago and no fault errors occurred.:) A week ago the oven just didn't fire up at all. Again, using Samurai's wisdom, we changed the ignitor before checking everything out" as it seemed the most likely cause. Since replacing it our oven only fires up in Broil mode. The ignitor turns red in the bake mode and we can hear the clicking at the gas valve but no heat. The fuse is intact. Please help!

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 Posted: Sat Feb 23rd, 2008 03:43 pm
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Nearly Nutz
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Correction to above. The new ignitor does not even glow in the bake mode, only slef clean and broil modes. Using the diagram referring to troubleshooting hot surface igitors there is continuity between wire b and terminal c. We can't seem to find where to check continuity of even thermostat because it is an electronic board behind the clock panel. This whole electronic circuit was replaced by a repair man last year also for the F1 fault code.

Attachment: IMG_1929.jpg (Downloaded 35 times)

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 Posted: Sat Feb 23rd, 2008 04:09 pm
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I can't find a wiring diagram for that model, can you post yours ?

Last edited on Sat Feb 23rd, 2008 04:10 pm by RegUS_PatOff



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 Posted: Sat Feb 23rd, 2008 04:21 pm
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Nearly Nutz
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I am searching ferverently with no luck yet. The user's guide is for Maytag gas range models CRG9800, CRG9700, CRG8600 and our model CHG9800. Was purchsed in 1996. I can not find, within the users guide or the installation manual, a diagram. I will keep looking.

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 Posted: Sat Feb 23rd, 2008 04:51 pm
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Nearly Nutz
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The closest I can come to any sort of diagram is on this link... http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=41695

Is this what you require?

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 Posted: Sun Feb 24th, 2008 01:24 am
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I was looking for a wiring diagram. I can't find one on Matag's site either.



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 Posted: Sun Feb 24th, 2008 10:10 am
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On your control you should have a terminal marked BA or Bake, and one marked L1.  With the unit plugged in, and just in a time of day mode, do you have 120VAC from Bake(BA) to L1?  If you do, then program your control for bake 550 degrees, after you hear the Click, does your voltage stay the same, or does it drop to 0?   



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 Posted: Sun Feb 24th, 2008 02:15 pm
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Nearly Nutz
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We still have not been able to locate a wiring diagram nor can we find a BA or L1 on our control panel. I have attached a photo of the control panel that was installed last year along with the ERC. Should we be considering the purchase of a new range at this point as we are having so much difficulty trouble shooting?:?

Attachment: conrols.jpg (Downloaded 30 times)

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 Posted: Sun Feb 24th, 2008 02:55 pm
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I will check that model # tomorrow when I get to work and post you back any info. I can find tomorrow night ;)



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 Posted: Sun Feb 24th, 2008 03:04 pm
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The picture you attached is of your clock assembly.  Before, in your first post you stated you could hear the gas valve click, that was not the valve (they do not click) it was your control or relay board.  It is a separate board mounted on the bottom of your range on the right side accessible when you pull out your storage draw.  Since you heard it CLICK, that means the relay has received the low voltage signal from the clock and the clock has done it's job.  That does not mean the contacts on the relay are good which is why you will want to do the checks I provided there.  Your model and serial number are good, and the schematic for this unit, if it is still there, is attached to the back of the storage draw.  The model number you listed is a correct model.  



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 Posted: Sun Feb 24th, 2008 03:30 pm
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Nearly Nutz
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Thank you sooo much! We have located the wiring diagram! Is there an apprentice's apprentice appliantologist? Next question is... Where is our control panel? Do we need to get behind the range ie. disconnect the gas? We attempted to locate the 4 hex screws that samurai said we would need to remove to get at the control but where unable to locate them with the open oven door. Once we find the control panel we will do the checks you listed.

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 Posted: Sun Feb 24th, 2008 03:39 pm
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Nearly Nutz
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Here is one of 2 wiring diagrams we located.

Attachment: diagram2.jpg (Downloaded 30 times)

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 Posted: Sun Feb 24th, 2008 03:41 pm
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2 of 2

Attachment: diagram3.jpg (Downloaded 28 times)

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 Posted: Sun Feb 24th, 2008 04:11 pm
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It doesn't make much sense that the BAKE ignitor only works in SELF-CLEAN mode.

Check it again. If it doesn't glow in BAKE mode, it probably won't glow in SELF-CLEAN mode. The Relay Board may be bad.

 



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 Posted: Sun Feb 24th, 2008 04:14 pm
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Nearly Nutz
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Range is now in one million pieces. We have located the control panel which was as you stated on the right side but we had to remove the side panel of the range to access it. We DO NOT have 120VAC from bake to L1 even in time of day mode. Broil to L1 seems okay but bake to L1 reads 0. what does this mean?

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 Posted: Sun Feb 24th, 2008 04:16 pm
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Thank you. You are correct it does not function in self clean either, only Broil. Please see latest reply. What do we do now? By the way thank you again, sooo much. If we can squeak a little longer out of this thing then we will be so happy.

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 Posted: Sun Feb 24th, 2008 04:48 pm
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check the voltage from L1 to each of the (3) connections on the "dual gas valve"

It should read 120v from L1 to each of the (3) connections in the OFF mode.

otherwise, from the previous messages, the oven ignitor seems to be bad (is that the one you replaced)

The ignitors are fragile and may have cracked during handling/installation.

you could check the resistance (ohms) of the ignitor, across it (disconnected)

it should read about 100 - 250 ohms when cold.





Last edited on Sun Feb 24th, 2008 05:04 pm by RegUS_PatOff



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 Posted: Sun Feb 24th, 2008 05:08 pm
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While testing the 3 connections on the dual gas valve there were sparks and now we have nothing. the Broil to L1 is not even reading anymore. :yikes: What have we done now??

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 Posted: Sun Feb 24th, 2008 05:14 pm
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there shouldn't be sparks if you were measuring voltage, unless you had your meter set wrong to AMPS, or the probes touched something else while probing.  You may have burnned out the gas valve, in addition to your opther problems.

Did you check the resistance OHMS of the ignitors (POWER DISCONNECTED) ?



 

Last edited on Sun Feb 24th, 2008 05:16 pm by RegUS_PatOff



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 Posted: Sun Feb 24th, 2008 05:15 pm
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In self clean on this model, the broil is the only igniter that comes on for the first 30-40 minutes, then it switches over to bake.  We will want to verify the polarity is correct on the outlet this is plugged into in order to trace the failure.  On the board, you should read 120VAC from the L1 terminal to ground.  If you do the polarity is correct.  If it is correct, go on to these checks.  

Turn your oven on to bake 550, and check off the Bake terminal to ground once you hear the relay click.  Do you read 120VAC or do you read 0.  If you read 120VAC the board is good and we will have to trace the neutral circuit. 

Leave the unit on bake 550 and do a voltage test at the igniter, do you read 120VAC from one wire to the other?  If you do and it is not glowing, bad igniter, if not, go on.

Leave the unit on bake 550 and do a voltage test at the safety valve from Red to white.  Do you read 120VAC or 0? 120VAC, bad safety valve. 

I have also found loose connections in the quick disconnect listed on your schematic, might want to check those as well concentrating on the red wire from the Bake terminal to the igniter. 



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