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Maytag CHG 9800 AAB oven won't fire up in bake mode

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Posted: Sun Feb 24th, 2008 07:34 pm

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41^st Post

RegUS_PatOff
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connect everything, turn oven ON and check these again:

red to L1 = 120v

red to ground = 3 volts

make sure your using a good ground (not painted, ect)

Last edited on Sun Feb 24th, 2008 07:35 pm by RegUS_PatOff

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Posted: Sun Feb 24th, 2008 07:35 pm

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42^nd Post

Nearly Nutz
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!!!!!!!Enter choice of expletive!!!!!!!!! So with a connection.... the red to ground is 120 and red to L1 is 0-1. How does that sound?

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Posted: Sun Feb 24th, 2008 07:40 pm

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43^rd Post

RegUS_PatOff
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now that makes sense.

looks like your gas valve is bad.

click on picture

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Posted: Sun Feb 24th, 2008 07:40 pm

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44^th Post

Nearly Nutz
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I double checked and it seems reversed but the red to ground is reading 120 and red to L1 is now 11-12v while the bake function is turned on to 550. I may require a brief intermission to collect my thoughts...

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Posted: Sun Feb 24th, 2008 07:42 pm

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45^th Post

Nearly Nutz
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Could this have occured when my husband arched the thing putting the meter on Amps while checking it? I only ask as I am confused about how the ignitor fits into all of this as it still does not light and the broil function is working.

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Posted: Sun Feb 24th, 2008 07:51 pm

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46^th Post

RegUS_PatOff
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yes.

the 120v should flow through the ignitor and then through the gas valve.

and I think you found the bad BAKE ignitor location (the one previously removed).

Last edited on Fri Dec 12th, 2008 06:56 pm by RegUS_PatOff

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Posted: Sun Feb 24th, 2008 11:30 pm

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47^th Post

Nearly Nutz
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Okay.. Back at it. Can we go any further while waiting for the new gas valve? (ie check other circuits and order all the parts at the same time) Is it worth it for this type of range being 12 yrs old?

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Posted: Sun Feb 24th, 2008 11:56 pm

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RegUS_PatOff
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if you turn off the gas valve at the wall, you could try swapping the RED & YELLOW wires to see if the new BAKE element now glows (if you can see it).

Don't forget to swap them back and turn the gas valve back on.

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Posted: Mon Feb 25th, 2008 12:23 am

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49^th Post

Nearly Nutz
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We have been doing all of these tests and measurments with the gas disconnected. Just checked the resistance of the two ignitors disconnected. The suspect one reads nothing and the other reads 160 ohms. Am I correct in concluding that it was the bake ignitor (that escaped notice) and we have messed things up further when we messed with the dual gas valve. Is it possible to just mess up the red terminal on the dual gas valve alone and have preserved the function of the yellow and white? How can this be. If we fried the gas valve wouldn't the broil function be lost also???

By the way..... Thank you again soooo much!

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Posted: Mon Feb 25th, 2008 12:29 am

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50^th Post

Nearly Nutz
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yellow wire is female and red is male. Won't fit into each others terminals

. I think we are hitting a wall. Husband throwing in the towel. I think the plan is a new dual gas valve and try the new ignitor tomorrow. Microwave dinners for another day

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Posted: Mon Feb 25th, 2008 12:41 am

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51^st Post

RegUS_PatOff
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dual gas valve: there's (2) coils in the gas valve and (2) valves.

one for BAKE & one for BROIL.

the BAKE (red one) probably got fried when the sparks occured.

you could just jumper across the RED & WHITE terminals to test the oven ignitor.

Last edited on Mon Feb 25th, 2008 01:24 am by RegUS_PatOff

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Posted: Wed Feb 27th, 2008 12:58 pm

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52^nd Post

Nearly Nutz
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Thanks to all who helped out! Once the fried gas valve was replaced - along with the initial replacement of the ignitor - we are back in business!! Lesson learned to double check that meter - could have saved ourselves $150.

THANKS!

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Posted: Wed Feb 27th, 2008 01:07 pm

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53^rd Post

RegUS_PatOff
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We all learn from our mistakes, I've learned alot

check meter settings before each use.. It's happened to all of us :spaz:

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