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Maytag CHG 9800 AAB oven won't fire up in bake mode

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Posted: Sun Feb 24th, 2008 05:19 pm

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21^st Post

Nearly Nutz
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You guessed it - My husband had the meter set to AMPS. Not sure why - he's not telling. Are we up the creek now?? :poison:

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Posted: Sun Feb 24th, 2008 05:31 pm

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22^nd Post

Nearly Nutz
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We can only locate one ignitor on our range. Old ignitor (which we reinstalled after deciding it was not the issue) reads 160. While the new ignitor reads 86 while cold.I can't wrap my head around why if we only have one ignitor it would function in broil only.

L1 to ground reads nothing. Is this because of the short caused by having the meter set to amps while checking the dual gas valve?

When do we give up?

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Posted: Sun Feb 24th, 2008 05:36 pm

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23^rd Post

RegUS_PatOff
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further up the creek...

L1 to ground reads nothing ?

has your fuse/breaker tripped ?

Last edited on Sun Feb 24th, 2008 05:39 pm by RegUS_PatOff

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Posted: Sun Feb 24th, 2008 05:49 pm

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24^th Post

Nearly Nutz
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Ummm... wife's fault this time. Breaker was off, trying to do this around a very curious 3 yr old. So... L1 to ground is 124. Yeah! I will proceed on to the other checks but am going it alone now - husband off to hockey. Yikes!

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Posted: Sun Feb 24th, 2008 06:00 pm

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25^th Post

Nearly Nutz
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You have got to be kidding!! When I get down and take a look where the red (bake)wire goes, it runs to ..... another ignitor!! :shock:

Can you confirm that there are 2 ignitors on this unit! If it is so I will try to get under there and change it out and my husband will be paying this beer fund!!!! :dude:

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Posted: Sun Feb 24th, 2008 06:03 pm

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RegUS_PatOff
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Yes, there are (2) ignitors. one for bake, one for broil..

#9 is the BAKE ignitor

Last edited on Sun Feb 24th, 2008 06:06 pm by RegUS_PatOff

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Posted: Sun Feb 24th, 2008 06:21 pm

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27^th Post

Nearly Nutz
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Unbelievable!!! So I have located the ignitor. Tried switching it with the new one and no luck. Is there a way to check that we haven't fried the dual gas valve? or would this have anything to do with whether or not the ignitors?

I am attempting to follow along the check list but got stuck at doing a voltage test at the ignitor. If I use the meter and check one wire to the other on either the broil (which was working previously) I am not getting any reading.

Where is the safety valve of which you speak (the red and white)? I have 2 red from the bake to the ignitor but am lost after that.

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Posted: Sun Feb 24th, 2008 06:25 pm

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28^th Post

RegUS_PatOff
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with the oven ON check the voltage between:

L1 to ground = 120v

BAKE to ground = 120v

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Posted: Sun Feb 24th, 2008 06:34 pm

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29^th Post

Nearly Nutz
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L1 to ground is good Bake to ground while on is also good (120) as is the broil. Broil ignitor still working...

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Posted: Sun Feb 24th, 2008 06:46 pm

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30^th Post

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voltage checks, oven ON:

check one side of BAKE ignitor to ground

other side of BAKE ignitor to ground

each of the (3) terminals on the gas (safety) valve to ground

Last edited on Sun Feb 24th, 2008 06:47 pm by RegUS_PatOff

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Posted: Sun Feb 24th, 2008 06:52 pm

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31^st Post

Nearly Nutz
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Please forgive the vastness of my ignorance (this wasn't as easy as the dryer repairs from last year). Do I check the ignitor to ground at their wire terminals (without the ignitor connected)? Or am I checking the ignitors themselves (not connected) OR how do I check the ignitors while connected?

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Posted: Sun Feb 24th, 2008 07:01 pm

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32^nd Post

RegUS_PatOff
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If you can check them while connected.

Do they have the twisted wire nuts or a built-in square connector ?

gas (safety) valve is #4 in the diagram

Last edited on Sun Feb 24th, 2008 07:04 pm by RegUS_PatOff

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Posted: Sun Feb 24th, 2008 07:01 pm

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33^rd Post

Nearly Nutz
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L1 to red terminal on dual gas valve reads only 32v. L1 to white and yellow are both 120v. Am I getting close?

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Posted: Sun Feb 24th, 2008 07:02 pm

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34^th Post

Nearly Nutz
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Built in green clip on connector.

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Posted: Sun Feb 24th, 2008 07:07 pm

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35^th Post

RegUS_PatOff
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Nearly Nutz wrote: L1 to red terminal on dual gas valve reads only 32v. L1 to white and yellow are both 120v. Am I getting close?

close.

From L1 to any of the (3) terminals on the gas valve should be 120v.

OR any terminal to ground should be 0 or 3 Volts

Last edited on Sun Feb 24th, 2008 07:08 pm by RegUS_PatOff

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Posted: Sun Feb 24th, 2008 07:16 pm

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36^th Post

Nearly Nutz
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Bake connector wire (from control panel to green clip) to ground is 120. Bake connector (from green clip to gas valve) reads 0!! All 3 terminals to ground read 0 or 1 and from white and yellow connectors to l! are 120v but red reads only 32-38v.

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Posted: Sun Feb 24th, 2008 07:20 pm

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37^th Post

RegUS_PatOff
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doesn't make much sense, let's focus on the red connector on the gas valve.

If the oven is ON:

red to L1 =120v

red to ground = 3 volts

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Posted: Sun Feb 24th, 2008 07:22 pm

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38^th Post

Nearly Nutz
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That is not what I am reading. I only receive 32-38v at red connector on gas valve to L1 and 0-1v from red connector to ground.

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Posted: Sun Feb 24th, 2008 07:25 pm

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39^th Post

RegUS_PatOff
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I don't think that's possible.

double-check what ground connection you're using.

Last edited on Sun Feb 24th, 2008 07:28 pm by RegUS_PatOff

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Posted: Sun Feb 24th, 2008 07:30 pm

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40^th Post

Nearly Nutz
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Should we perhaps try changing out the red wire and connector from the control panel to the dual gas valve. It seem to show 120v from the panel to the green clip but then little to nothing between the gas valve and the clip (mind you the ignitor is not attached at that time for connectivity when I have measured any of these things. Let me try connecting it, finding a way to get the meter on to the ignitor and see what happens.

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