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KitchenAid Superba Oven KEBC107KSS0  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Sun Jan 20th, 2008 04:38 pm
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bearshead
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Is it possible to replace the relay at K6? Can one buy these independently of the board?
Many many thanks to all who have helped with this.

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 Posted: Sun Jan 20th, 2008 04:59 pm
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RegUS_PatOff
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It's possible if you or someone you know can solder.

There are no burned up traces on the board ? ?

(they could be repaired also)

Not guaranteed to work after that, but not too much to lose (and time)

I could search for the relays if you give me the part numbers on them, or a close-up photo.

 

Last edited on Sun Jan 20th, 2008 05:08 pm by RegUS_PatOff



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 Posted: Sun Jan 20th, 2008 11:36 pm
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bearshead
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At $300 for the board it is worth a crack at fixing it if it can be done!
The part is made by Potter & Brumsfield, and is #RT334024F. I will post a close up of it later, and also check the other side for damage. Many thanks.

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 Posted: Mon Jan 21st, 2008 12:16 am
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RegUS_PatOff
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the relay wouldn't stop the controller from powering up.

There are probably open traces on the other side.

http://www.newark.com/jsp/search/altsSubs.jsp?type=acc&sku=17C6470

$3.11 :)



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 Posted: Mon Jan 21st, 2008 12:43 am
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bearshead
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Here is the backside of the whole board

Attachment: circuitboard.jpg (Downloaded 50 times)

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 Posted: Mon Jan 21st, 2008 12:45 am
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bearshead
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This is a close up of the back by the scorched area by R4 & R5

Attachment: R4R5.jpg (Downloaded 50 times)

Last edited on Mon Jan 21st, 2008 12:46 am by bearshead

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 Posted: Mon Jan 21st, 2008 12:47 am
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bearshead
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This is a close up of the back by the scorched areas of D27 & R2

Attachment: D27R2.jpg (Downloaded 50 times)

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 Posted: Mon Jan 21st, 2008 12:48 am
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bearshead
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here is a better image of the scorched area of D27 & R2

Attachment: d27r2Front.jpg (Downloaded 50 times)

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 Posted: Mon Jan 21st, 2008 12:54 am
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bearshead
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RegUS_PatOff wrote: the relay wouldn't stop the controller from powering up.

There are probably open traces on the other side.
Many many thanks for finding the relay.
Would the board be able to power up if any of the resistors were blown? So should I be replacing those or studying the traces (or both)?. If you need close ups of any other area please let me know.

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 Posted: Mon Jan 21st, 2008 01:10 am
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bearshead
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closer study may have revealed another troublespot. This is on the bottom edge directly below the "ON" in the display window.

Attachment: trouble.jpg (Downloaded 50 times)

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 Posted: Mon Jan 21st, 2008 01:18 am
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RegUS_PatOff
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bearshead wrote: RegUS_PatOff wrote: the relay wouldn't stop the controller from powering up.

There are probably open traces on the other side.
Many many thanks for finding the relay.
Would the board be able to power up if any of the resistors were blown? So should I be replacing those or studying the traces (or both)?. If you need close ups of any other area please let me know.
if any resistors were blown, chances are they were because the controller chip went bad first. I'd look closely at all the traces.

Last edited on Mon Jan 21st, 2008 01:21 am by RegUS_PatOff



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 Posted: Mon Jan 21st, 2008 01:23 am
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Keinokuorma
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The scorching of the board around the R2 etc appears to be the result of long term hot running of the parts... this may or may not be related to the current problem.

If this was just a short caused by baking foil touching someting, and there was a pop and everything went dead all the sudden, the resistors wouldn't have baked the surrounding area. It is possible that this is not at all related to anything touching anything in the oven, but just waiting to happen because some parts on the control board are underrated for their heat tolerance vs heat production.

At 300 for new control, it would not be a bad idea to try and repair the board at home. Then there's http://www.stoveclockrepair.com which sounds to have reasonable pricing for their service, probably much less than 300 for repairing a board.



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 Posted: Mon Jan 21st, 2008 01:37 am
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appl.tech.29501
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here's another problem

Attachment: clock.xls (Downloaded 9 times)



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 Posted: Mon Jan 21st, 2008 01:49 am
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bearshead
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I have looked there quite carefully and don't see anything amiss- what makes you think that there is trouble with those 3 connections?

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 Posted: Mon Jan 21st, 2008 02:15 am
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appl.tech.29501
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looks scorched to me from the picture, but  i'm sure your able to see it more clearly than I



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 Posted: Mon Jan 21st, 2008 02:23 am
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bearshead
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I think that was just a shadow, but thank you anyway

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 Posted: Mon Jan 21st, 2008 08:37 pm
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Keinokuorma
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Is that a solder blob or burnt trace just left from the text TP26?

BTW Appl.Tech, you don't need to embed pictures into excel documents... to avoid automatic resizing, you could still post reasonable picture size in PNG or GIF... line graphics in RLE BMP or GIF... 

Attachment: tp26.bmp (Downloaded 36 times)



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 Posted: Mon Jan 21st, 2008 08:52 pm
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bearshead
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That's a solder blob, and looks fine in real life. The parts that I am more concerned about in that area are the things embedded in the board between C13 and R16: Both look absolutely fine, but they are directly over the scorched area of D27 & R2. I am awaiting the arrival of a relay and will let you know how we get on.

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 Posted: Sat Jan 26th, 2008 06:05 pm
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bearshead
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I got a new relay and found a local TV repair shop who could deal with the soldering. He said that he would be surprised if the relay was broken, but he replaced it anyway. He also tested the scorched-looking resistors and they were fine. The replaced some of the traces.
BUT it still doesn't work- no change at all. Before I drop the $300: is there anything else that could be wrong here?

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 Posted: Tue Jan 29th, 2008 12:24 am
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appl.tech.29501
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As long as you have verified that you have 120 volts from P1-3 to P1-1, P4-1, P4-2 and you have already replaced the obvious damage to the board it's time for a new one.

Your only other option is to send it off to and electronics company to trouble shoot it which could rack up a considerable labor bill.....good luck



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