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GE side-by-side model# GSL25FPA BS - Help!  Rating:  Rating
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 Posted: Wed Jan 16th, 2008 01:19 pm
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ladylaz
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Hello,

We inherited a stainless GE side-by-side model# GSL25FPA BS with a house we purchased. Represented age: 4 years. This unit has a never-attached
ice maker and is surrounded by wood cabinetry such that only about a third of it protrudes forward to afford it the "thirteen inches" of clearance the serial plate says it requires on the sides. It has the required inch on top and behind, but just barely.

After 4 years the fridge warmed up, the defrost continued to run with
the controls "off" (until unplugged), and an ice jam near the top of the
coils stopped the fridge fan's flow. After disassembly discovered dust-laden
compressor fan and a hot compressor, fridge was cleaned and put
back into operation. Four weeks of quiet/perfect performance hence coils needed defreezing. This has repeated twice.
Pattern on coils indicates frost on all coils and ice jam forming from middle
to top of coils all the way accrossand slightly thicker on the fridge side (defrost heater working non-stop unable to terminate job).

Should we buy/install a thermistor for the defroster and see what happens,
or a new Whirlpool? Unfortunately, this seems to be a standard size fridge, and
we have a sinking feeling it is the enclosed clearance accelerating failure (there
is no way to add space..why does this fridge state it needs so much SIDE clearance and does this mostly count toward the rear of the unit where the mechanics operate?). Advice needed! Can post pics if desired. Everything in this fridge looks pristine.

PS Probably unrelated: we live in a sutropical climate and this icing has
happened the only times it has gotten unusually cold this winter (thus in the house at night as well)...perhaps adding to some sensor confusion/sticking?

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 Posted: Wed Jan 16th, 2008 01:42 pm
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Tridewebsr
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It sounds as if the electronic main board is defective, part #1194711

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 Posted: Wed Jan 16th, 2008 01:42 pm
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Tridewebsr
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It sounds as if the electronic main board is defective, part #1194711

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 Posted: Wed Jan 16th, 2008 01:59 pm
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ladylaz
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Here's a pic:

Attachment: icingPattern2.jpg (Downloaded 196 times)

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 Posted: Wed Jan 16th, 2008 05:04 pm
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Poobah
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make sure of continuity of the heater, if good (ok)...next replace the thermistor wr55x10025....this is what controls the heater  to come on and go off (kicks out at 70ish degrees)....I encountered one with the same problem and posted about it another thread on Jan 10....the thermistor is letting it go out of defrost too soon, hence leaving frostiness and ice on the upper coils.....completely thaw down and install new thermistor and monitor...this should take care of your problem

If you ever have to order your parts do it from Repair clinic and if you should ever purchase anything that doesn't fix your problem you may return it less S&H....makes things really easy when working with the Muthaboards and the like (which are know menaces).....good  luck

Last edited on Sat Jan 19th, 2008 02:19 am by



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 Posted: Wed Jan 16th, 2008 05:07 pm
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Poobah
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I re-read your post again, and make sure the compressor area is clean and clear from lint, dirt, etc....and the fan down by the compressor is working ok....I am going to assume it is because you said it worked good for about 3-4 weeks



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 Posted: Wed Jan 16th, 2008 06:35 pm
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ladylaz
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Thanks so much for the help - especially the detailed responses from Poobah - we will try what you suggest!

P.S. I guess this means that we shouldn't be worried about the lack of side clearance, particularly towards the back?

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 Posted: Wed Jan 16th, 2008 10:32 pm
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Poobah
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I have seen them stuffed back in holes with no gaps around them....set in place and then trim boards put up against them to make them completely flush.....some people can have that kind of luck, not me....I like alittle room around them or at least some overhead...the main thing is to make sure the cond. coils stay clean....pet haie is a killer..



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 Posted: Mon Feb 4th, 2008 06:51 pm
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ladylaz
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Today I installed the GE replacement thermistor.
It had some green bands instead of the red ones
on the older bullet-shaped model.

I had expected some sort of screw-termainated splice
connection since this replacement part simply ended
with bare copper wire. When I looked for one I found
the old thermistor went directly into a plug in the
freezer wall. When I extracted this plug and pulled back
its rubber boot it was obvious the old thermistor
was "hard-wired in" to this plug...the copper wire
clearly was crimped ot soldered into metal termination
plugs inside the boot, which communicated with the
other side of the plug, as did about seven other wires
in the same square boot.

Did I get the wrong part? I guess not, and that a splice was
in order, but wondered about increasing the length
and resistance, even the sensitivity of the circuit.
But how else was I supposed to do it? Forcing the metal
tips out of the plug boot and making an exact replacement
seemed absurd given the replacement part I had.

So I spliced and diced using the entire length of the
replacement (in case this was ascew up) as well as
most of the original wire. I even
used correctly gauged metal automotive crimp connectors and
conductive bulb grease to ward off moisture, and insulated
the connection with plenty of tape.

So far the compressor and its fan are humming quietly. What
can I expect? Should I open her back up and redo anything
while I can?

Attachment: icing.jpg (Downloaded 170 times)

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 Posted: Mon Feb 4th, 2008 06:52 pm
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ladylaz
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More pics...

Attachment: plug-termation.jpg (Downloaded 169 times)

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 Posted: Mon Feb 4th, 2008 06:54 pm
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ladylaz
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More...

Attachment: splice.jpg (Downloaded 173 times)

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 Posted: Mon Feb 4th, 2008 06:55 pm
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ladylaz
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Last one...

Attachment: completed.jpg (Downloaded 168 times)

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 Posted: Mon Feb 4th, 2008 07:09 pm
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Poobah
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your ok....I use crimp caps and a craft working glue gun usually or a silicone to fill the caps...your fine to just cut the wires and put them  back together...just keep an eye on it...good luck



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 Posted: Tue Feb 5th, 2008 10:57 am
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ladylaz
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Thanks - we'll keep an eye on it and know for certain in a few weeks!

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 Posted: Tue Feb 5th, 2008 11:08 am
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Poobah
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these boxes react to how much the doors are opened..i've found it usually takes 3-4 weeks on most before an issue starts to arise (if it's going to) hopefully yours is cured....



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 Posted: Wed Feb 6th, 2008 11:27 am
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ladylaz
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24 hrs after repair water vapor condensing
on walls of both fridge and freezer.
consistent "fog" and compressor activity in freezer
compartment.
some small ice crystals forming on back wall of
freezer about half way up on right.
freon leak? bad repair? motherboard issue?
normal behaviour I have not witnessed before?
fridge seems "clammy" but nothing melted, similar
to symptoms following former failures (except after 2
weeks).
air coming through exchanger seems "moist"
like the defrost is on and not turning off(???)

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 Posted: Wed Feb 6th, 2008 12:28 pm
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Poobah
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Sounds as if the compressor isn't running  or running intermitently for their to be water on the liner walls....you need to pull the fridge out and remove the back cover and see if the compressor is running or if it is trying to start and not being able to (will make a clicking sound every minute or so...if it is doing this could be a bad overload/relay assembly)....also listen to the where the motherboard is located and see if you can hear a sucsession of clicking going on (this has been a pretty common occurance on these also ending witha bad board)...also while there make sure the fan is running and the compressor isn't overly hot (not able to lay your hand on it for an extended time)

If the compressor is running ok and not overly  hot, and the coils are only frosted on the top 1/3 it could be a sealed system leak...if it starts running ok and frosting the coil then post a pic so we can see the frost pattern

after checking this unplug the box and let it set for 5-10 mins...after plugging it back in this will reset the fridge...leave it ot for awhile and see what happens with compressor run, coil frosting

make sure the plug and socket that holds the thermistor wires (the one you tried first) is plugged in good and no wires are pulled loose

Last edited on Wed Feb 6th, 2008 12:33 pm by Poobah



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 Posted: Wed Feb 6th, 2008 03:21 pm
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ladylaz
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First, thank-you everyone for your fine
 feedback/instruction.

After running with repair for 48 hours
did the following:

1)Removed back panel, hand on running comressor
 for 30 seconds.
Fan was on, compressor hot but tolerable. No
 dust...looks new...see pic...fan was on
shutter speed makes it look off. No clicking in either
 compressor (quiet hum)
or motherboard. Listened with mechanics stethoscope to
 confirm. There IS
a distinct trickling sound seemingly coming from the
 compressor; it
is faint and sounds like water dripping every couple
 seconds.

2)Went to get tools to pull freezer compartment cover.
 When I came back
compressor and fan were off.

3)Unplugged unit, removed freezer cover. Inspected
 wiring boot: tight,
no loosened wires. Adjusted clip on new thermistor so
 it was in the
middle if the thermistor instead of the very end.

4)Inspected coils. Lots of frost on lower coils, just
 moisture on
upper coils. Frosted copper low down, frozen pool under
 overflow
hole. Took picture. Posted.

5)Note: freezer only has 20 full ice cube trays and a
 frozen Margarita
bucket in it. Everything else has been moved to a
 chest freezer until
repair is confirmed.

6)Replugged unit after 15 minutes, compressor and fan
 came on instantly, almost
silently. Came upstairs to load this message and unit
 has been running
15 minutes, compressor/fan still on, not too hot to
 the touch.

Attachment: 48hourFrost.jpg (Downloaded 151 times)

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 Posted: Wed Feb 6th, 2008 03:21 pm
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ladylaz
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other pic referred to in last message

Attachment: compressor.jpg (Downloaded 148 times)

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 Posted: Thu Feb 7th, 2008 01:39 am
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appl.tech.29501
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Kinda looks like the beginning of a sealed system problem to me......kinda wierd..definitely appeard to be a defrost issue previously...what says you Poobah?



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