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Frigidaire FRS26HF5AB5 Not Cooling!  Rating:  Rating
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 Posted: Wed Dec 26th, 2007 01:38 pm
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huckabjr
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My side-by-side Frigidaire keeps doing this weird thing...it cools for about a day, then stops cooling completely, and everything melts or gets warm, sending me into a panic of removing food to coolers, icing everything down, etc.

Two days ago, I noticed that the ice was melting in the freezer, and the milk was getting warm in the fridge part. I removed everything, pulled off the grate, and gave the whole thing a good vacuum, thinking it was just dust. When I plugged it back up, it began cooling very quickly, filling the ice bucket and even freezing items I put in there to test it. The refrigerator got cool as well, so I put everything back, thinking I was done.

Yesterday, the ice started melting and the fridge got warm again. I unplugged it, pulled it out, and removed the cardboard thing from the back. My husband and I spent two hours cleaning all the dust from the inside, making it look almost like new again. There was no frost on anything, but lots of dust on the coils and tubes. When we plugged it back in, it ran like a dream, making ice, cooling quickly, even freezing food.

This morning when I got up, the ice had all melted, and the milk was warm again. Please help me diagnose this! I am going crazy with all this!

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 Posted: Wed Dec 26th, 2007 01:43 pm
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Pegi
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First thing to check would to be sure the fan motor that cools the compressor/condensor is running when the compressor is....if it is not the compressor will overheat and shut down till it cools off giving you the problems you describe, this will be located at the bottm back area where the cardboard panel was removed..



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 Posted: Wed Dec 26th, 2007 02:11 pm
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huckabjr
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The only fan I saw was the one that blows across the black coil things...it was blowing just fine.

I'm sorry, I know nothing about appliances at all, and my husband knows how to fix almost anything...except a refrigerator. This site saved us tons of $$$ when our washer was acting funny, so I thought I'd start here. Please explain what everything looks like and where it is located, and I apologize for my ignorance.

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 Posted: Wed Dec 26th, 2007 02:40 pm
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Pegi
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You are fine, looks like that motor is running ok then.....something is causing the compressor to cut out, either by heat or lack of electricity...when it cuts out again need to see if you have voltage to the compressor or not to see which it is...also see if the compressor is too hot to hold your hand on...



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 Posted: Wed Dec 26th, 2007 02:55 pm
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huckabjr
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Compressor is fairly warm. I can hold my hand to it for 7-10 seconds, but then it gets uncomfortable. However, it has been pulled away from the wall for the last half hour or more, with the cardboard removed, so it may not be as hot as it is getting on a regular basis. When I pulled it out last night, I accidently stuck my hand to it, and it was very hot. It stayed unplugged for over two hours while we cleaned the condenser, then ran like a dream, so it does seem to be getting too hot.

I am assuming it's not running now since it doesn't seem to be getting cooler...how do I check the voltage?

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 Posted: Wed Dec 26th, 2007 03:02 pm
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Pegi
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Use a volt meter or volt stick to see if it is getting power.....if it is running but the unit is not cooling you have major problems...if it is not running it could be off of the cold control system or it could be in defrost...that back panel has to be in place for proper air flow across the compressor however.....if the fan in the freezer is running, the compressor and condensor fan motor should be running also....suspect you may have a compressor going bad, might see if it is still under warranty.



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 Posted: Wed Dec 26th, 2007 03:47 pm
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huckabjr
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Since I don't have any idea how to use a voltage meter, and my husband has suggested maybe I should wait for him, I will reply back tonight with our findings. I do know that this refrigerator is not under warranty since it is 4yrs. old, and at the time it was purchased, it came with a 1yr. warranty, and we didn't purchase any extension. Maybe we should have, but I thought refrigerators were supposed to last a long time.

 

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 Posted: Wed Dec 26th, 2007 03:58 pm
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Pegi
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Check the warranty in your use and care book that came with the unit, that compressor should have a 5 year parts warranty, assuming it is the problem, put that back panel back into place too....us in the business just know there are problems with the compressors on this brand, again not saying this is your problem for sure...



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 Posted: Wed Dec 26th, 2007 04:03 pm
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huckabjr
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Yes, the compressor is covered in the 2nd-5th year warranty on cabinet liner and sealed system, so I will keep that in mind, thank you. I will replace the back panel and wait for my husband before going any further.

Last edited on Wed Dec 26th, 2007 04:04 pm by huckabjr

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 Posted: Wed Dec 26th, 2007 06:01 pm
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Poobah
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schematic for compressor...part # 30 is the overload relay assembly...if the compressor gets too hot (you said it was very hot) the overload will kick the compressor out and it will make a clicking sound....this usually happens when the relay goes bad (all this is in the same assembly...it will rattle when taken off and shaken)...could be a comp. going bad as Pegi said..pretty common on these boxes

your going to need to see if the compressor is running or not when it isn't cooling...or clicking....if the compressor is running when it's not cooling you have major problems....try checking this and getting back to us



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 Posted: Thu Dec 27th, 2007 12:18 am
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There will be three copper tubes coming out of the compressor, one is only a few inches long and is welded shut.  Of the other two coming out of the compressor, the smaller one is called the high side, and normally will be too hot for you to hold more than a few seconds if it is running.  Like the other posts have stated, if the compressosr is making a clicking noise every 30 seconds or so, that means the compressor is not starting.  Do not turn on and off the cold controls, leave them alone, and just unplug or replug the AC cord.  If you unplug the refrigerator for 1/2 hour for it to cool off, the compressor should start, and that tube will get hot.  If it clicks and refuses to start, it probably is either the start relay is bad, or the compressor is binding up and just won't start.  From the prior posts, I assume you have check to make sure that fan by the compressor is running strong.  Good luck, and keep up posted.

Himeros

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 Posted: Thu Dec 27th, 2007 01:19 am
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huckabjr
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Compressor not starting or running at all, even after an hour cool-off. High side tube is stone cold, which to me says that the compressor probably hasn't been running all day. Not sure where to go from here, keep diagnosing, or call Frigidaire?

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 Posted: Thu Dec 27th, 2007 01:29 am
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appl.tech.29501
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Look at Poobah's post a few back....you probably have a bad relay on the compressor, pretty simple to check but you have to use a meter.



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 Posted: Thu Dec 27th, 2007 01:31 am
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huckabjr
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Since the compressor has several wires connected to it, we couldn't tell which one should be checked with the meter. It seemed we would either have to remove the compressor to check, or try to pull out the whole bracket with all the wires. Also, would this require a replacement of just the relay, or the whole compressor? Is this something we can even do ourselves, or should we just call the repairman? Just trying to decide how far to go here.

Last edited on Thu Dec 27th, 2007 01:33 am by huckabjr

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 Posted: Thu Dec 27th, 2007 10:23 am
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huckabjr
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I unplugged the refrigerator last night, and plugged it back up this morning, to make sure the compressor had plenty of time to cool down. I don't think it's running at all, because it's been plugged up about an hour, and there is no cooling going on. Freezer fan and condenser fan still running, high side still cold. Compressor is making a faint clicking sound (you have to be right on top of it to hear it), but not coming on.

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 Posted: Thu Dec 27th, 2007 11:57 am
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Poobah
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checking the overload relay assembly is simple....do you have a meter (if so procede)....pull the assembly straight off the compessor (make a wiring diagram of where the wires are at just in case)....you will notice there a re 3 pins on the side of the compressor aligned in a V shape (could be an upside down V also)...the wires and slots on the assembly will coincide with these.....the pin at the point of the V will have the overload hooked to it .....take your meter and set it for ohms (continuity) and read across the 2 terminals that are side by side  if no reading it's bad (also remember if you have no meter if you shake it and it rattles it's bad)



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 Posted: Thu Dec 27th, 2007 12:35 pm
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huckabjr
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I'm not sure if I'm using this meter right...the readings jump all over the place, from 15 to 0.5 and back again...I've never used one of these before...makes me feel like an idiot. Anyway, the relay thing I pulled off the compressor definitely rattles when shaken, so what do I do now, and how do I get the thing all the way out? Right now it's still connected with these two wires that I can't figure out how to disconnect.

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 Posted: Thu Dec 27th, 2007 01:05 pm
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Poobah
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if it rattles it's def. bad...most of the wires just have clips on them that slide right off, but you may have the one that is wired up directly let me check real quick

here is the relay assembly...looks to just be the one that has the capacitor piggybacked on there....as I said though the wires should pull off if not they will need to be clipped and then re-installed on the new one....is your meter a digital

Last edited on Thu Dec 27th, 2007 01:20 pm by



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 Posted: Thu Dec 27th, 2007 01:16 pm
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huckabjr
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It looks just like that, but it has a red and a blue wire coming out of it. The clip the red and blue wires go to also has another red wire and a green one. Yes, the voltage meter is digital, but I really don't know what I'm doing with that thing, so I'm not sure I'm getting an accurate reading.

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 Posted: Thu Dec 27th, 2007 01:18 pm
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Poobah
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using a meter



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