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- > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Kitchen Appliance Repair Forum > GE GTS22WCMBRWW regfrigerator and freezer warm - sometimes

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GE GTS22WCMBRWW regfrigerator and freezer warm - sometimes  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Thu Jan 17th, 2008 01:28 pm
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markinchico43
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from the sounds of this problem it seems to be a bit like mine with my kitchen aid.  could you take a look a my post "warm beer..." and help me catch a clue.

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 Posted: Fri Jan 18th, 2008 12:29 am
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BrucetheHoon
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You know, folks, I'm a computer programmer.   70% of my job is devoted to tracking down  bugs and trying to break my own creations (because unartful users will find wonderful ways for me if I don't).  The bane of my professional existance is the "unrecreatable bug".   The unrecreatable bug is the beast that makes users cringe because they appear to be lying when they complain.   It is the one that you drink to forget then drink more when you kill it.    

That said, I've got what in my experience is an unrecreatable bug.   Like most, it is almost certainly completely recreatable but I cannot figure out the odd set of steps required to do so.   

I started tonight with a 73 degree freezer.   This is my idea of "warm" for those who read my previous post.   Here is a complete list of what I did

(before starting). check to make sure compressor is NOT running (it wasn't)
1. unplugged box
2. removed board cover
3. rescrewed grounding screw
4. unplugged 3 wire harness
5. plug in box
6. check voltage on L1
7. unplug box
8. bridged L1 and J8(compressor)
9. plug in box
10. note that compressor did NOT start
11. repeat a few times to make sure I'm not crazy
12. remove bottom panel
13. remove overload and relay for the 10th time to make sure they're good.
14. test relay with a shake and a continuity test
15. tests passed, plug relay and overload back in.
16. plug 3 wire harness back in board
17. plug in box
18. damn compressor started instantly and the temp in the freezer dropped by 30 degrees in a minute

I'm sure that I might have done several things wrong, but I'm erring on the side of safety on this one.

So I'm sure I learned that the compressor works.  If we're dealing with a defrost thermistat problem, would we have seen things happen this way?  If so, I'll order one immediately.


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 Posted: Fri Jan 18th, 2008 01:25 am
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jambatt
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18. damn compressor started instantly and the temp in the freezer dropped by 30 degrees in a minute


:yikes:We've just found the answer to global warming. Seriously, did the evaporator fan and condensor fan come on when the compressor did? How long did compressor run and what was freezer and fresh food temps when it shut off? If freezer temp was 5 degrees or below and FF was 38 to 40 degrees then I think we're back to a defrost problem. I would replace # 620(WR50X10068) and #605(WR55X10025) in link below. They're cheaper than the board. If that doesn't do it then board replacement is next.


 

http://genet.geappliances.com/IPCNet/Dispatcher?REQUEST=IPCNETGETPDF&file=00000000/00016300/00016399.p03.pdf

Last edited on Fri Jan 18th, 2008 01:30 am by jambatt



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 Posted: Fri Jan 18th, 2008 02:21 am
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BrucetheHoon
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OOOOk.   (orangutan sound?)  

Where can I order those parts? I'd like to try to get them ordered and shipped tomorrow if I possibly can.


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 Posted: Fri Jan 18th, 2008 02:38 am
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jambatt
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Look at the top of the forum. Appliance Parts. Use Search for Parts at top or bottom of page. Type in the part # and go from there.

Last edited on Fri Jan 18th, 2008 02:42 am by jambatt



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 Posted: Fri Jan 18th, 2008 02:49 am
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jambatt
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OBTW you will probably have to cut and splice wires, can't remember for sure, but I usually use a silicone filled wire nut and then cover it with a piece of shrink tubing to prevent moisture from getting into the connection.



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 Posted: Fri Jan 18th, 2008 03:07 am
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BrucetheHoon
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welll there it goes again.

I'm stuck here folks -  This is a GE (crapola) and it's freezer on top (my wife wants a bottom) and I'm already going to have to buy $200 worth of food to replace that which died yesterday.  I'm concerned that too many more of these diagnostic attempts could cost me more in replacement food than just buying a new unit.   

If I'm being a gool and I just need to keep the faith and keep at it, just yell at me, but it's getting spendy to keep rebuying our food.  Adding the breast milk that spoils every time, it's having a definite... ahem...  impact on the wife as well.  

That said - if y'all think these two parts will do it, I'll pay overnight shipping and get er done.    If it's a 50/50, I'd just appreciate a good recommendation for a <$1200 freezer on bottom unit.  Sorry for wussing out - I feel bad.


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 Posted: Fri Jan 18th, 2008 11:41 am
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Poobah
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It is going to be a judgement call on your part and to what lengths you will go to keep the Mrs. happy....you have had a box for 2 ish weeks working intermittently.......I'm not going to say that a board is not in the future... BUT...in your post you said you did the board bypass and jumped L1 &J8 and the compressor did not start (at this point the compressor shold be running off straight power), after that you removed the Overload/relay and shook it, re-installed and it started working...this lead me to a bad over/relay or a compressor thats starting to go haywire...ohm between the 3 terminals coming off the compressor (where assembly plugs onto) and they should read about the same all in the low ohms range



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 Posted: Fri Jan 18th, 2008 12:41 pm
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BrucetheHoon
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Here's where I've ended up.   If I can get a relay locally, we'll give it a try and see if it works.   If not, we need to just get a new unit.  The family is tired of eating pasta and I can't argue with the wife on it.  Any idea what kind of place would carry a relay like this?

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 Posted: Fri Jan 18th, 2008 12:50 pm
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BrucetheHoon
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Never mind the place to find the parts - I've found a place that sells GE fridge parts here in town.   I will grab the relay, overload, thermistat and sensor.  If I replace all those and it works, great - otherwise I'm going to give in to the wife.  

That said, can anyone point me to a good model?   My biggest fear right now is not spending $1000, it's spending $1000 on a piece of garbage.


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 Posted: Fri Jan 18th, 2008 02:38 pm
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markinchico43
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let me know if the overload/relay replacement works.  my kitchen aid seems to have the same bug as your GE, cept'n it doesn't work most of the time.  and I'm lucky, I'm not married, my daughter is 12, and the unit is in a rental where I "lent it" to the tenant.  Never want to be responsible for their food or havinig to pay for their mistakes (condenser fins were completely clogged with cat hair).

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 Posted: Fri Jan 18th, 2008 03:21 pm
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BrucetheHoon
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ALLLLRIGHT. I'm leaving work for an hour to make the trek up to middle Las Vegas to pick up the parts I need.  They have everything but the overload and the prices seem just fine:
thermistat (WR50X10068) 7.89
Sensor (WR55X10025) 8.58
relay (WR07X10051) 9.99

That said, I sure hope it's not the overload.  The overload seems fine based on my multimeter tests, so who knows...

Anyhow - around 7pm tonight I should be in the middle of the repair and I'll post my results.  hopefully they'll have wire nuts and silicone - I'm out of silicone and don't know what size nuts to use.  What gauge wire is it?

Would still like to know what brand DOESN'T stink if anyone has a suggestion.   I'm warning you - I'll buy an LG if I don't get a recommendation :)


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 Posted: Fri Jan 18th, 2008 03:43 pm
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Pegi
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Always buy Whirlpool and the brands they make, like  Kitchenaid  as well as Roper, Estate.....remember the simpler the better....less to break in the future...



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 Posted: Fri Jan 18th, 2008 04:41 pm
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Poobah
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Hooray...star for the day for Ms. Pegi...Whirlpool...only way to go....and don't worry about all the bells and whistles, if you can find one of the Estatemodels she mentioned it has the old style defrost timers and the like....no  boards to deal with...keep us posted



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 Posted: Fri Jan 18th, 2008 05:40 pm
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BrucetheHoon
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wow. The only issue with those estate models that I can find is no bottom freezer.   The wife is pretty adamant about that.  Aside from that, the prices are obviously fantastic.   Any bottom freezer recommendations?  Anything inherently wrong with bottom freezer models?

All that said, I've got every part but the overload in my car now and will be doing the deed tonight - and hopefully will not NEED a new one :)

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 Posted: Fri Jan 18th, 2008 09:57 pm
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Poobah
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does it have to be a french door style with freezer on bottom, or can it be just one big door up top



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 Posted: Sat Jan 19th, 2008 01:49 am
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BrucetheHoon
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Unfortunately I've only just gotten home.   Horrible traffic.  

The relay did not do the trick :(.  have to wait for the baby to go down to try the other two.

Big door up top is just fine - the french doors are great but I've never found one that will close just by letting go of the door - and I know I'd forget to push it closed too often.


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 Posted: Sat Jan 19th, 2008 01:59 am
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BrucetheHoon
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OHNO!  I don't know where to replace these!  

The diagram is extremely exploded to the point where I'm not sure where I'm supposed to dig to get to these parts.

Help?

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 Posted: Sat Jan 19th, 2008 03:23 am
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BrucetheHoon
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OK.  I found the bits to be replaced.  I stripped and connected and siliconed. 

One bit of nasty - the sensor did not have an obvious (or discernable) + or - wire.   I assume it's a simple switch that connects based on temp.   hmmm.

I plugged it back in and the compressor started right away.

About 5 minutes later I heard a cliky-tonk-click sound.   fairly loud.

Now the compressor isnt running and the freezer is at 70 degrees and not budging.

The thermostat is definately hooked up properly.  The sensor MIGHT not be (see point above).

I'm depressed now.

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 Posted: Sat Jan 19th, 2008 03:35 am
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jambatt
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Unplug the unit.Remove racks.. Remove icemaker. Remove the light cover #294.Remove bulb. Remove two screws from 643 and remove 643 if possible. 645 has four plastic tabs on the back. Slide 645 upward about 1/4 inch and then pull forward carefully to remove. May be a little stubborn so thoughtful persuasion may be required. Remove the screws in 201, back cover. Look in the top center opening of 201 and release the two plastic catches, one on either side. Careful 'cause they break easily..But no big deal if one does break. You may have to remove the evap fan shroud 207 and the evap fan also. Memory ain't as good as it used to be. You have now opened Pandora's Box. Now match up your parts to 605 and 620 and have at it. Post back if you have any problems. OBTW pay attention to location of any strange shaped foam pieces that may become dislodged or have to be removed . GE's way of fixing a design problem.



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