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ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Kitchen Appliance Repair Forum > Kitchenaid Model # KERC506HWH2 |
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| Moderated by: BrntToast, RegUS_PatOff, appl.tech.29501 | Search Our Sites for More Info! | Page:   1 2 3 4   |
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| Kitchenaid Model # KERC506HWH2 | Rating: 
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| Posted: Sun Jul 22nd, 2007 02:29 pm |
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41st Post |
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cdwasher Master Appliantologist
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Why not get something like maytag washers have on their lid switchs.you know the off balance mech. fuse and bracket is all you need and wrap it with tape and keep away from any heat. trying to help cdwasher post back
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| Posted: Sun Jul 22nd, 2007 03:57 pm |
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42nd Post |
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acillatem Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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Good and bad news......I found it, but it is part of the main wiring harness (sorry for the picture from another site, but not everyone has an image)http://www.appliancepartspros.com/part_details_lgimg.aspx?part_id=3070948&image= It's in the $80.00 neighborhood, give or take, which sucks.......but, the only consolation is that If I had called the local appliance repair man, I don't believe they would "rig" something up on the spot, such as some of the methods I and others have come up with. Not that some or all wouldn't work............I'm sure they would simply tell me that it is part of the wiring harness, and they would have to order it, and come back(and charge more). I ordered the ERC board, which it turned out not to be(and because I blew off that fuse as some sort of connector........notice in the picture that it has a clear covering, so that you can actually see the fuse....hah!), but the positive in that is the buttons on the new board are sooooo much easier to push, even though when we once asked a repair guy that was at our house fixing something else under warranty, he said "they are all like that, because they are mounted on flimsy sheet metal, and it "gives"........and we believed him, because it (sort of) made sense. He was really arrogant also.......more worried about selling us some service plan for after the warranty.Anyway, the buttons are extremely easy to push on this board, so he was wrong. It should have been replaced under warranty, but oh well.....at least spending $165.00 on it is somewhat justified. I'll still come out ahead on the wiring harness, because I'll get it cheaper, and put it in myself. Does anyone think it's foolish to spend $80.00(give or take) to fix this the right way, or would most of you still try to come up with an alternative fuse holder for what I have? Just curious. I've spent most of my weekend on this, and in hindsight, wonder if it was worth it..........but I sometimes feel like I'm just giving in If I don't at least try.....hence forums like this! Sorry to ramble. Last edited on Sun Jul 22nd, 2007 04:26 pm by acillatem |
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| Posted: Sun Jul 22nd, 2007 04:04 pm |
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43rd Post |
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Pegi Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology 
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Cool photo, showing the fuse in the new harness....why not try to fix it your way, you can always order the harness with the fuse later if it fails?? The ERC was most likely updated which fixed the hard to push button problem also...and yes any tech would have ordered the harness to cover their butt....
____________________ To ask a question, use our new forums==> http://appliantology.org 365-Day No-Hassle Return Policy at RepairClinic! 
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| Posted: Sun Jul 22nd, 2007 04:08 pm |
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44th Post |
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Pegi Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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CDwasher, could you post a link to a photo of that lid switch fuse thingie you are referring to so we can see what it looks like please?? Might be a good option..
____________________ To ask a question, use our new forums==> http://appliantology.org 365-Day No-Hassle Return Policy at RepairClinic!
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| Posted: Sun Jul 22nd, 2007 04:31 pm |
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45th Post |
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acillatem Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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Pegi wrote: CDwasher, could you post a link to a photo of that lid switch fuse thingie you are referring to so we can see what it looks like please?? Might be a good option.. I agree......I'm not anxious to spend $80.00 to get the one wire with fuse that I need, but if it comes to it, it's better than the $100.00 minimum the repair guy would charge for the harness, plus the labor to put it in..........AFTER the $79.50 charge to diagnose it. But I did spend a lot of time to finally figure it out.......and now I have a multitester, and much more knowledge about the inner workings of my oven...........priceless I say, priceless! You believe that, right? Last edited on Sun Jul 22nd, 2007 04:56 pm by acillatem |
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| Posted: Sun Jul 22nd, 2007 04:50 pm |
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46th Post |
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Pegi Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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Yep.....
____________________ To ask a question, use our new forums==> http://appliantology.org 365-Day No-Hassle Return Policy at RepairClinic!
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| Posted: Sun Jul 22nd, 2007 05:03 pm |
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47th Post |
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acillatem Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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Good, I hoped I was convincing 
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| Posted: Sun Jul 22nd, 2007 05:07 pm |
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48th Post |
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acillatem Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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If I'd realized that was a fuse right away, we would be using the oven right now for under $100, and with an ERC that would move almost a quarter inch when pushing the buttons, so, by accident, that is resolved and I stilll will fix it. Looking for the positive in this
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| Posted: Sun Jul 22nd, 2007 08:53 pm |
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49th Post |
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acillatem Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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Also, can't help but wonder why the fuse blew.......hate for it to happen if I end up ordering the new one. I hope it was simply because of a power surge. If that's the case, seems it would have happened before in the last 6 years.......maybe not. Seems like the blown fuse and this http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j161/metalliholic06/DSCF1875.jpg would have some relation, since they are in the same loop.......either the fuse blew because of this being a bad connection, or it started getting hot and then the fuse blew????? Anyone have any ideas on that? Thanks! Last edited on Sun Jul 22nd, 2007 08:53 pm by acillatem |
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| Posted: Sun Jul 22nd, 2007 09:42 pm |
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50th Post |
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Keinokuorma Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology 
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This isn't the best way to mount an in-line fuse, but of course as it is cheap to produce, and the manufacturer can make a mint by selling new wiring harnesses, they settled to it. Those caps aren't really too reliable... as the fuse swells and shrinks by the heat differences, it slowly works the fitting looser and weaker, the weaker connection wll have more heat losses, until the fuse is so hot it can't take the stress of the working current. It is heat that blows the fuse, not the current itself. In the thermo shrink tube and warm environment it will not take as much current as if there was good ventilation and cool air around it. In a standard holder it will stand much better chances to survive. You could acquire slow or mediocre speed fuses if those seem to blow too easy. Depending on the brand you may run into markings F20, M20 or T20 instead of "fast acting" etc... T is for slow in that case.
____________________ "There is no reason anyone would want a computer in their home." - Ken Olson, Digital Equipment Corporation (1977) |
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| Posted: Sun Jul 22nd, 2007 09:58 pm |
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51st Post |
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acillatem Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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Thanks! So, do you also think I should just fix it with a regular automotive fuse holder that has 14 gauge wire on it??? Last edited on Sun Jul 22nd, 2007 11:49 pm by acillatem |
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| Posted: Mon Jul 23rd, 2007 09:34 am |
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52nd Post |
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Budget Appliance Repair Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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acillatem wrote:Thanks! So, do you also think I should just fix it with a regular automotive fuse holder that has 14 gauge wire on it??? Truthfully I wouldn't be so worried about the insulation but more about the wire gauge, that heatshrink tube around the fuse is just to keep the bare metal from shorting to the oven frame. The temp were the fuse is shouldn't get above the rated insualation temp of most wiring so that isn't a worry. I wouldn't want to put a wire any smaller then what is already in that circuit, it can be required to carry a pretty good load if all elements were on at the same time, (I don't think all three would ever be on at the same time but two, bake/broil, wouldn't be uncommon at all for a preheat). I would deffinitely repair it rather then replacing the complete harness if you can find parts that will work. If you did have to order the harness, you will notice it will be backordered from pretty much where every you order it from. Whirlpool backorders are usually only a week or two but sometimes you may be waiting much longer. Last edited on Mon Jul 23rd, 2007 09:39 am by Budget Appliance Repair ____________________ William Burk (Willie) Willie's Budget Appliance Repair Eureka, CA 95501 |
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| Posted: Mon Jul 23rd, 2007 09:41 am |
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53rd Post |
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Keinokuorma Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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Withdrawn. Last edited on Mon Jul 23rd, 2007 10:01 am by Keinokuorma ____________________ "There is no reason anyone would want a computer in their home." - Ken Olson, Digital Equipment Corporation (1977) |
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| Posted: Mon Jul 23rd, 2007 12:45 pm |
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54th Post |
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acillatem Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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Budget Appliance Repair wrote: acillatem wrote: What If I were to use the old caps like I described earlier, and then solder all around the edge of the cap? I guess I'd be just as well off getting the plastic fuse holder with 14 gauge wire, right. The gauge doesn't seem to be the problem, but the insulation on the original wiring is heavy..........someone told me it was asbestos......probably has to be for liability issues, but you say the heat in the area where the fuse is shouldn't be a concern. Last edited on Mon Jul 23rd, 2007 09:36 pm by acillatem |
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| Posted: Mon Jul 23rd, 2007 10:58 pm |
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55th Post |
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applianceman18007260692 Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology 
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why not just install a reset button? Attachment: fky gf.jpg (Downloaded 35 times)
____________________ "May the hinges of our friendship never grow rusty" -old Irish saying Buy me a Beer: http://web.me.com/zenzoidman/applianceman18007260692/ |
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| Posted: Mon Jul 23rd, 2007 10:59 pm |
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56th Post |
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acillatem Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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applianceman18007260692 wrote: why not just install a reset button? Kind of like a GFI?
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| Posted: Tue Jul 24th, 2007 12:49 am |
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57th Post |
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cdwasher Master Appliantologist
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The off balance switch with the fuse in it,use the bracket and install a larger fuse that should do the trick,don't know how send a picture. send advise any one Pegi etc.
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| Posted: Tue Jul 24th, 2007 07:45 am |
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58th Post |
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Keinokuorma Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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Not GFI, different animal... but an "automatic fuse" a.k.a. breaker... one that you can reset by hand. Some ovens actually have one in the place of that fuse. If you go to that, wire it to some place where you can reach it without moving the oven....
____________________ "There is no reason anyone would want a computer in their home." - Ken Olson, Digital Equipment Corporation (1977) |
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| Posted: Fri Aug 3rd, 2007 03:04 am |
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59th Post |
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acillatem Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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Sorry to bring an old thread back to life, but where might I get a "breaker" like that, if I chose to go that route. A couple weeks ago, after being concerned about anything I did lasting like the original, I went and ordered the wiring harness, that has the wire with the fuse in it. My wife said she felt better getting the original part, so I said the heck with it, and just bit the bullet. It is a complete ripoff that they don't sell that wire separate, but I'd be done with it. Anyway, after almost 2 weeks of waiting(no one has it in stock), I get told it is on backorder from the manufacturer, and won't ship until the first week of september. I called whirlpool, and they said the same thing......they are out and have one on backorder(probably mine!) and don't know when they will get them. Now, I'm going to HAVE to use plan B. My question is: If I can't find a "breaker" or something similar that will work in this application, should I try to use this http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j161/metalliholic06/DSCF1297.jpg which is an automotive type fuse holder? It is 14 gauge wire, but it says 100º on it, and the original wire says 150º. It's also asbestos insulation(or so I was told), and of course, the actual holder is plastic, as you all well know, so anyone think that will be a problem? My other though was to take my original wire and put the "caps" back on a new radio shack ceramic fuse as best I can, and maybe soldering them to make a better fit???????? http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j161/metalliholic06/DSCF1298.jpg Someone already told me that those caps origianlly fit pretty tight, which they did, because I pulled them off, and that simply putting them back on best I could would most likely not be longlasting and the fuse would probably overheat and blow again, so that's why I thought maybe solder??? Anyway, sorry for the long post........I just have to do something, even if it's something that barely makes it until the harness FINALLY shows up! I'd like to make something work that seems like it will do the job as good or better than the original, so I don't have to be another victim of their ripoff "scam"(Whirlpool, that is) Thanks again, in advance, for any more advice or opinions anyone is willing to give. Last edited on Fri Aug 3rd, 2007 03:15 am by acillatem |
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| Posted: Fri Aug 3rd, 2007 09:21 am |
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60th Post |
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Budget Appliance Repair Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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I'm pretty sure you can purchase fuses that have the pigtails on them, (there just not something your common RadioShack is going to carry), you would have to so some searching on the internet or ask at a higher-end electronics repair shop. If you could find one then you could solder it back into the original wiring harness, (using a heatsink on the lead so as not to overheat and melt/blow the fuse), and put heatshrink tube over it before finishing soldering both leads. The other thing you might be able to do is use the fuse holder you have pull both contact ends out of the holder with a couple inches of wire, drill out the ends of the fuse holder tube so that the larger gauge range wire will go thru, strip about 1/2" insulation off end each wireharness end that goes to fuse, cut the wires that are on the fuse holder leads to about 1/2" and remove all the insulation. Slide one half of fuse holder over large gauge range wire then weave the 1/2" of bare wire on the fuse holder lead into the 1/2" of bare stripped wire on the harness and do a nice clean solder job. Then do the same with the other side of the fuse holder, (the cap side without the spring looks like it would be to short to cover the 1/4" to 1/2" splice area and would need some heat shrink covering over the splice). If you do a good job of this you shouldn't have anything to worry about as far as it being able to carry the load and it will be an easy replacement if the fuse blows again.
____________________ William Burk (Willie) Willie's Budget Appliance Repair Eureka, CA 95501 |
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