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Kitchenaid Model # KERC506HWH2  Rating:  Rating
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 Posted: Sat Jul 21st, 2007 10:21 pm
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Pegi
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No idiot here my friend, looks like you found the fuse...this is how they hide them in the GE dishwashers to the water valve, gotta dig them out of the heat shrink...good find!!



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 Posted: Sat Jul 21st, 2007 10:24 pm
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acillatem
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I just cut the tubing off, and it is a fuse, and it is blown. I feel like an idiot. I just saw the black tubing and thought it was a connector, until I looked close. Any idea how I can get one of these, or the entire wire with the fuse in it, since it is inline. I called my local auto parts store to see if they had inline fuse holders with 14 gauge wire, and they do, but this has asbestos insulation on it, and the wire from the auto parts store won't. Any other way to wrap it to protect it from the heat like the original insulation if I can't order the wire with the fuse?

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 Posted: Sat Jul 21st, 2007 10:27 pm
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acillatem
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Hi Pegi!

You helped me with my dryer a long time ago.......I remember you. Any ideas on how I can safely get my range up and running again without calling the service guy? I've come this far, I can't throw in the towel now lol..........unless I have to. Don't want to do anything dangerous.

Last edited on Sat Jul 21st, 2007 10:31 pm by acillatem

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 Posted: Sat Jul 21st, 2007 10:35 pm
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Pegi
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What is it a 20 amp fuse?  Perhaps Radio Shack or somewhere that sells fuses for Microwaves??   Since this is not listed in the parts breakdown that I could find anyway, not sure it can be ordered without buying the whole wiring harness, might call Whirlpool to see if it can be ordered....na....they will not have a clue what you talking about.....is it in a holder of sorts that a new fuse can be inserted into??



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 Posted: Sat Jul 21st, 2007 10:49 pm
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Pegi
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Wondering now if that set up from the auto parts store could not be used then heat shrinked to shield it from the heat or some other protection...I have a hunch that is to protect from power surges so might not be that big of a job to find some way to shield it anywho....;)



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 Posted: Sat Jul 21st, 2007 11:30 pm
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acillatem
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Yes, it is a 20 amp fuse> Went to the auto parts store, and the guy told me they probably are ceramic fuses, which he was out of, but they had them at radio shack. Here they are:

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j161/metalliholic06/DSCF1278.jpg

 

Now I have to cut the rest of the shrink tubing away to see If I can simply replace the fuse. My other question is: should I have got fuses for 110 volts, or is the amperage all that matters> Reason I ask is, I think it is just 110 going to that side of the relay........that is what Budget Appliance Repair told me to check for on that wire at the terminal.........110 volts that is. So I wonder If I should get 20 amp, 110 volt fuses?

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 Posted: Sat Jul 21st, 2007 11:42 pm
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Pegi
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Hummmm, not sure, perhaps one of the others would know, but does seem like it should be 110 volt since that is what is on that leg of the systm??



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 Posted: Sun Jul 22nd, 2007 12:22 am
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acillatem
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Here's what it looks like with everything stripped away

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j161/metalliholic06/DSCF1283.jpg

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j161/metalliholic06/DSCF1282.jpg

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 Posted: Sun Jul 22nd, 2007 12:46 am
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Keinokuorma
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Sorry for my confusion, the relay on the new board should of course be good. Me be the idiot here.

Last edited on Sun Jul 22nd, 2007 01:06 am by Keinokuorma



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 Posted: Sun Jul 22nd, 2007 12:57 am
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acillatem
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Keinokuorma wrote: Sorry for my confusion, the relay on the new board should of course be good.

Oh, no problem......thanks. Turned out to be a fuse after all lol. Now just got to find a way to make it work again.

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 Posted: Sun Jul 22nd, 2007 01:08 am
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Keinokuorma
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I don't see why you couldn't splice in a ceramic body fuse holder, and make some means to protect it from touching other parts.

Also take care of the burnt connector. If there is room, maybe you could crimp a straight connector on it... they seem to hold together somewhat better than the angled ones.

The voltage rating of fuses only means that they are secure to interrupt a circuit when the voltage doesn't exceed the rated value. There may be a higher voltage listed for DC than AC. A lower voltage rated fuse may arc after popping, and often on lower voltage in AC systems than on DC. You can safely use a 250V rated fuse on a 110V or lower system, but not necessarily a 125V rated fuse on a higher voltage system. And, in the elements circuit, when the fuse pops, there will be roughly 240V over the gap, the fuse must be fit to hold that much at least without arcing. The fuses should still hold 50% excess to the rated voltage.

Last edited on Sun Jul 22nd, 2007 01:37 am by Keinokuorma



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 Posted: Sun Jul 22nd, 2007 04:13 am
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acillatem
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I got the burnt connector taken care of........and I did use a straight terminal, because I couldn't finf the right angle ones lol. Yeah, I don't understand why it is so hard to locate this exact type of fuse. The one that is blown says 20A, 250V, so I've got the right fuses, just without the little pigtails on them, and I can't seem to find those on the internet.........very frustrating. It would appear that those little pigtails are part of a "cap" that goes on the end of the fuse, but they don't seem to come off. Any help or advice would be immensely appreciated at this point. Thanks!

Last edited on Sun Jul 22nd, 2007 04:25 am by acillatem

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 Posted: Sun Jul 22nd, 2007 04:29 am
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acillatem
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More good news(at least I hope so).......I got those little "caps" with the leads on them off the ends of the fuse, but not without distorting then slightly, so now I have to try and make them perfectly round again, so they will slip right on the new fuse. I'm not outta the woods yet, but hopefully close!

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 Posted: Sun Jul 22nd, 2007 05:42 am
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acillatem
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O.k., so here is where I'm at with this challenge..........I've got the old fuse out of it's "holders", and it looks like this:

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j161/metalliholic06/DSCF1292.jpg

I have these fuses

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j161/metalliholic06/DSCF1278.jpg

And this heat shrink tubing

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j161/metalliholic06/DSCF1289.jpg

which I'm assuming is all this is on the old fuse

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j161/metalliholic06/DSCF1273.jpg

 

Anyone know any reason why I couldn't simply put these "caps" on the new fuse, heat shrink the tubing around it, and be back in business? The one "cap" is a little out of round and being a little difficult going on the end of the fuse,and goes on slightly crooked, but I can mess with that......the other one goes right on. I'm assuming if I get the cap on at all, that it has a good connection, seeing how it touches quite a bit of surface on the fuse.....correct me if I'm wrong. I think the fuses are the right kind, don't know if there is any special heat shrink tubing for this application or not......maybe high heat????? I think I have it figured out, all things considered, but I wouldn't post here If I was an expert, so feel free to tell me if you think anything is wrong with this. It's late, I'm going to bed, and will check here in the morning and see if there is any feedback, approval, etc. Thanks again, in advance!

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 Posted: Sun Jul 22nd, 2007 07:59 am
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Budget Appliance Repair
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Ok, you're on the right track. You found the fuse and it's the problem. You found the correct fuses to replace them with and the black stuff around the old fuse is just heatshrink tubing which you have.

Now, I think your going to be running into problems if you try to reuse those caps, when new I believe they are a very tight fit and even possibly soldered on at the little lead dot in the center. Regardless, trying to put those old caps on the new fuse is not going to be a good connection and cause the fuse to overheat and blow again in no time.

You would be doing better if you could find an inline fuse holder that has good heavy wiring to match the range wiring and then if the fuse ever blows again it will be an easy replacement.



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 Posted: Sun Jul 22nd, 2007 01:28 pm
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Pegi
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I would imagine the asnwer is in this wiring harness list for your range, but how is one to know if this is so and which one might have the fuse installed??? Perhaps a call to Whirlpool could shed some light on this.

WIRING HARNESS PARTS


9782122 Harness, Wire


(Main)


9752771 Harness, Wire


(Cooktop Control)


9753682 Harness, Wire


(Cooktop Ceran)


9750744 Harness, Wire


Door Switch


9752772 Harness, Wire


(Top Light)


9781542 Harness, Wire


(Jumper Convection)


9782182 Wire, Jumper


(Dual Switch)


3169573 Strap, Ground


690989 Screw, Grounding


313660 Clip, Ground Strap


9781930 Harness, Wire


(Single Ceran)


20082084 Tie, Wire


9753680 Harness, Wire


(Warm Zone)


9753687 Harness, Wire


(Simmer)



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 Posted: Sun Jul 22nd, 2007 02:00 pm
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acillatem
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Budget Appliance Repair wrote:

Now, I think your going to be running into problems if you try to reuse those caps, when new I believe they are a very tight fit and even possibly soldered on at the little lead dot in the center. Regardless, trying to put those old caps on the new fuse is not going to be a good connection and cause the fuse to overheat and blow again in no time.

You would be doing better if you could find an inline fuse holder that has good heavy wiring to match the range wiring and then if the fuse ever blows again it will be an easy replacement.

Yes, those caps were fairly tight, and I wondered about that If I reused them, that 's why I asked..........glad I did. I almost bought an inline fuse holder with 14 gauge wire on it from the auto parts store yesterday,, and got talking to they guy, and he said the insulation on the oven wiring is usually asbestos to take heat, and the leads coming off the fuse holder he had were just normal insulation,and that could be a problem, would you agree or disagree? I could cut the wire as close to the holder as possible, allowing only enough room to crimp a new connector. Finding out which harness has the fuse in it would be awesome, like Pegi said.

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 Posted: Sun Jul 22nd, 2007 02:03 pm
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Pegi
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Again, the auto parts store or Radio Shack might be your friend, take everthing for them to see, they might have a system to replace what is in your range that you can splice into the existing wiring..



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 Posted: Sun Jul 22nd, 2007 02:12 pm
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Pegi
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Route the wiring away from heat sources and put lots of heat shrink over your whole repair area, who cares what it looks like....since I believe this guards against power spikes and not overheating, I am probably wrong about that but.....sounds like it would be worth a try, I sure would.  If it blows the new fuse in a short time we know gotta come up with a plan B......but you would already know where the problem was and how to fix it with a different plan.



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 Posted: Sun Jul 22nd, 2007 02:21 pm
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acillatem
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Pegi wrote: Route the wiring away from heat sources and put lots of heat shrink over your whole repair area, who cares what it looks like....since I believe this guards against power spikes and not overheating, I am probably wrong about that but.....sounds like it would be worth a try, I sure would.  If it blows the new fuse in a short time we know gotta come up with a plan B......but you would already know where the problem was and how to fix it with a different plan.
Yes, that's what I'm thinking......just to get it to work. I'm sure a call to Whirlpool or Kitchenaid would hopefully get me the wiring harness with the fuse in it.

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