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ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Kitchen Appliance Repair Forum > GE dishwasher wont fill with water |
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| Moderated by: RegUS_PatOff, Pegi, appl.tech.29501 |
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| GE dishwasher wont fill with water | Rate Topic |
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| Posted: Sat Jun 18th, 2005 03:41 am |
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1st Post |
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ahuebel Grasshopper
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I have a basic GE dishwasher model GSD3230z02ww. It recently stopped putting water in the tub. I did some general troubleshooting and thought it might be the water inlet valve so I bought a new one and tried it but still had the same problem so apparently that wasnt it. I checked to see if I was getting voltage to the solenoid with a multimeter but got no reading. I shorted (actually disconnected and bypassed) the float switch to see if that was the problem and still got no voltage reading when I turned the dishwasher on. Does anyone have any further troubleshooting tips? TIA
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| Posted: Sat Jun 18th, 2005 03:53 am |
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2nd Post |
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Pegi Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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The timer feed power to the float switch which goves power to the fill valve. If the valve is new and the float switch, do not see what else is left except the timer or a bad wire tol the float switch'
____________________ Moderator & Assistant Admin. for Servicetechhelp Associaton, Inc. http://www.servicetechhelp.com STH HELPDESK URL.... http://www.servicetechhelp.com/h2desk/ ___________________________________ For Gordon... http://serviceeveryday.com/ |
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| Posted: Sat Jun 18th, 2005 04:43 am |
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3rd Post |
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Jedi Appliance Guy Sublime Master of Appliantology
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Take all the screws off the door and door latch and have a look at the Heat Dry / Air Dry switch. Quite often this switch will fry and stop it from filling. You can even try this from the front. Do those two buttons I mentioned "feel" the same as the rest? Sometimes if you mash those two buttons back and forth while the machine is running and supposed to be filling, it will start filling. May the force be with you.
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| Posted: Sat Jun 18th, 2005 11:26 am |
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4th Post |
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ahuebel Grasshopper
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Good call! They buttons do feel different than the rest. I dont have the water inlet valve connected to the rubber hose and I was pressing the buttons back and forth and water actually came out for a second but then it stopped. I think that is the problem. I will try to take the door latch today. Do you know if I can replace just that switch or do I have to replace the whole "switch kit"? Last edited on Sat Jun 18th, 2005 11:30 am by ahuebel |
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| Posted: Sat Jun 18th, 2005 12:51 pm |
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5th Post |
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GLC Sublime Master of Appliantology
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Good call Jedi - Man I learn something new everyday too.
____________________ Unless specifically asked otherwise, remember to test with the unit unplugged, or breaker off. CLICK HERE TO BUY PARTS Appliance Repair In Maryland http://serviceeveryday.com |
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| Posted: Sat Jun 18th, 2005 02:41 pm |
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6th Post |
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Pegi Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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Yes, thanks Jedi, I will remember this also.
____________________ Moderator & Assistant Admin. for Servicetechhelp Associaton, Inc. http://www.servicetechhelp.com STH HELPDESK URL.... http://www.servicetechhelp.com/h2desk/ ___________________________________ For Gordon... http://serviceeveryday.com/ |
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| Posted: Sun Jun 19th, 2005 02:42 am |
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7th Post |
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ahuebel Grasshopper
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I have to say a big thank you to Jedi. That was indeed the problem. I rewired it so that "Heat Dry" is permanently on and I will look into ordering the switch that went out. I will have to call GE to find out what part it actually is because I cant tell clearly from the diagram. Everything is working great now though. Unfortunately I cant return the water inlet valve because I already opened and installed it.
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| Posted: Sun Jun 19th, 2005 02:54 am |
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8th Post |
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Jedi Appliance Guy Sublime Master of Appliantology
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Hey Pegi. 1st one I ran into I ordered a timer too. Had my meter out and everything. Traced no power to the fill valve back to the timer. While I was doing this, I notice the toasty looking switch. I ordered a timer and a switch. When I went back with both parts I installed the cheaper switch first and tried it. It started filling just fine, it passed my complete checkout so I returned the timer unopened. I see it often enough now to stock the switches on the truck. I've been known to cut the orange and black wires going to the switch and wire nut them together to get the machine running while a switch was on order. This locks it in heat dry mode. I never really studied the wiring diagram to see why it does this. Don't really have to at this point.
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| Posted: Sun Jun 19th, 2005 02:59 am |
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9th Post |
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Jedi Appliance Guy Sublime Master of Appliantology
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Here's your part.
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| Posted: Sun Jun 19th, 2005 03:10 am |
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10th Post |
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ahuebel Grasshopper
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Crap, I have to buy the whole thing? I was hoping I could just the the single switch that went bad. Thanks again. By the way, instead of actually cutting the wires to nut them together I just pulled out one of the prongs of the bad switch and put the terminater for the orange wire on one end and the blue wire on the other, taped them together and was good to go.
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