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Kenmore/Whirlpool gas dryer is dead  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Tue Jun 5th, 2007 11:07 pm
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hpcbmw
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So i got a Kenmore/Whirlpoos gas dryer, probably about 1999 or 2000 vintage. model #110.70072990, ser #mj4802404.  It ran great til last nite. I ran a "high heat" cycle with no problem. Then I immediately ran a medium heat cycle. The dryer went "beep beep beep beep ...." and I think the lights on the panel where flashing. I pushed the stop button, the "off" button for cycle signal (it was driving me crazy), and then the stop button a few more time. It finally stopped - dead. Now, nuthin happens. I plugged a lamp into electrical outlet to verify there was electricity (lamp worked). I looked at this site and found out it's probably the thermal fuse (I'll also check the dryer vent - it's probably 8 or more feet long - maybe why the fuse blew?).

I looked at the "dryer repair" section, but can't find a way to remove the back panel to get to the thermal fuse. Am I gonna hafta take the top off, the front and back off and the drum out to get to the fuse? Any shortcuts? If/when i get to the fuse, will it be obvious that the fuse is blown (like a car fuse), or will I have to jump the wires around the fuse and see if i've got power?

Thanks
hpcbmw

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 Posted: Tue Jun 5th, 2007 11:31 pm
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BLTH15

 

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these dryers are notorious for having bad touch pads.  the beeping noise probably meant a stuck key pad.  you don't go in from the back.  the bottom panel comes off, 2 clips about 4inches in on each side. a small screwdriver will slide in and push the tabs downto release it.  pull out the lint screen remove 2 1/4 hex head screws to remove the blower compartment.  you will see a white thermal fuse, jump it out or test it with a meter if bad replace it.  by the way you might want to unplug it first then plug it back in. post back

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 Posted: Wed Jun 6th, 2007 12:00 am
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hpcbmw
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Thanks to your input, i got the front panel off and took blower cover off. I see two "fuses" - on the left is a white plate with two red wires coming out (I assume this is the thermal fuse). On the right is a black plate with one red and one black wire. I jumped the two red wires on the white plate - but nothing happened. The jumpers i used are pretty thin. Should I check with a meter instead? I got a meter, but don't really know how to use it. I set it on "ohms" and touched the two red wires on the white plate and it went to about 1 1/2 ohms (pointer went almost all the way across the gauge). I touched the red and black wires on black plate and it read about 20 ohms (about 1/3 of the way across the screen).

Does the ohm meter tell you anything? Should I jump the red and black wires (i'm afraid to do that).

Thanks

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 Posted: Wed Jun 6th, 2007 12:29 am
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hvacdrd
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If the thermal fuse were tripped the only thing the dryer wouldn't do is heat. It has nothing to do with powering the control. Take a look at the Tech Sheet to get started.

And to get yourself familiar with how to use your meter take a look here.

 

 



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 Posted: Wed Jun 6th, 2007 02:26 am
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hpcbmw
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It looks like i've got to get the control panel off the dryer to check connector p1. How do I get the control panel off the top of the dryer? I've got the screws off the back of the dryer, and can get the top off the dryer. I see some plastic pieces that look like hinges on the top right and left of the back of the control panel, but can't figure out how to open the panel.

Lastly - how can I identify connector "p1"? The tech sheet refers to this, but I only see p3 and p4 on the diagram in the tech sheet.

Thanks

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 Posted: Wed Jun 6th, 2007 02:59 am
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hvacdrd
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Remove the endcaps on both sides of the console, remove the screws holding the console to the top, then flip the console up. Like this...

Attachment: WPconsole.JPG (Downloaded 25 times)



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 Posted: Wed Jun 6th, 2007 12:52 pm
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hpcbmw
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Thanks for the info on taking control panel off. Must have just been a loose connection. I unplugged and replugged all the control panel connections and it works fine now!

Thanks!

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