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ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Kitchen Appliance Repair Forum > Maytag MFI2568AES Ref. French doors / freezer draw 1.5 years old |
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| Moderated by: BrntToast, RegUS_PatOff, appl.tech.29501 | Search Our Sites for More Info! | Page: 1 2 3 |
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| Maytag MFI2568AES Ref. French doors / freezer draw 1.5 years old | Rating:
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| Posted: Thu Aug 2nd, 2007 03:52 am |
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41st Post |
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Privateer Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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sd, Outstanding job with the instructions!! Thank you, Privateer
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| Posted: Mon Aug 6th, 2007 02:55 pm |
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42nd Post |
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carynd Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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A&E finally showed after three missed appts, only this time I didn't have an appointment because I was going on vacation!
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| Posted: Mon Aug 6th, 2007 08:01 pm |
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43rd Post |
jabko
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Check you owners manual, I know a lot of low end refrigerators now come with only a one year full warranty, but most of the high end units still had the five years on the sealed system, which included the compressor and related tubing and evaporator, if you have the manual the warranty page will state the warranty and will include if the sealed system had any extended warranty, past the first year....John B.
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| Posted: Mon Aug 6th, 2007 08:56 pm |
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44th Post |
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Keinokuorma Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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Keinokuorma wrote on Sun Jul 29th, 2007 16:48: carynd, unless you already had the repairman come and fix the thing... you may have a broken thermistor, or weak connection to one. Usually if the compressor is at fault, it will struggle to keep temp by running for prolonged periods, or even all the time... or then it will run for short periods and cycle off on the overload, or it won't run at all, depending on the fault. If it cycles on and off by the thermostat/control, and the temps are swinging a lot, I still have a hunch that it might be related to a thermistor problem, air leak thru gaskets, or an internal air distribution problem... worth checking before condemning it, or having an expensive repair for vain... 3 months out of warranty, that sucks. I've heard of cases where stuff was repaired under warranty even after a year out of the warranty period... because it was pointed out that the problem wasn't due to occur unless the product was faulty from factory.
____________________ "There is no reason anyone would want a computer in their home." - Ken Olson, Digital Equipment Corporation (1977) |
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| Posted: Thu Aug 30th, 2007 01:32 am |
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45th Post |
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AgZep Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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"Steve sent me!" Many, many thanks to all the gurus on this thread, especially sd and his step-by-step cap replacement instructions. Our 18-month-old Ice2O started the old "flash-and-flap" late last week; knowing that we were buying version 1.0 of this appliance, we had invested a small amount in an extended warranty. Repair guy arrived today, in a hurry--said it was the third unit he'd seen with the problem this week--took down model/serial numbers to order the new HV board and was out of here in less than 3 minutes. Said he'd call when the new board arrives. Unsatisfied with the open-ended nature of that response, we went to Radio Shack, invested $4.00 in new caps and performed the surgery ourselves. We're back in ice and water again, and, more importantly, a cool refrigerator. Perhaps I can convince the repairman to just hand me the new board when it arrives, and bill the service contract whatever he wants. We'll definitely check back here again for more appliance repair info (with a whole slew of new appliances, you know we'll need more tips) and perhaps even for a good chuckle.
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| Posted: Sat Sep 1st, 2007 05:01 pm |
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46th Post |
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Yamahog Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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Hi folks, I am in a similar situation to the others on this thread with one expception. I cannot program the new board even with instructions. I consider myself fairly intelligent, and this driving me crazy I bought the fridge that the wife had to have in 02/06. In early 12/06, I had the flapper, blinking problem. After working through the repair process and some type of A&E changeover in FL, I finally got someone to replace the board on 12/24 (yes Christmas Eve). The repair guy was great and ran home to get a new HV board from his own stash in his garage. I had agreed that when the "true replacement" part arrived to me I would call him to replenish his stash. I also tipped me $50 for getting me taken care of on Xmas Eve. Now, I remember when he brought the HV board back, he had all kinds of trouble programming it. Eventually he got it right. When the part came in to me about a month later, I called him, and he said he no longer worked for the company, for me to keep the part I ( Fast forward to today. I am doing Yard work in the hot FL sun and the wife comes to tell me that, "we have a problem, the fridge is going nuts again, and we have a BBQ planned for Sunday". I figure no problem I have the extra board. I changed out the board, I get the flashing and or constant PEO OOO. The isntructions seem simple, BUT THEY WILL NOT WORK!!!! Is the one of more of the doors supposed to be open? Is there a trick with opening and closing the doors X amount of times? There is something that I remember not being on the instructions with the board when the repair guy fixed it, and we even had a coversation about it. He of course being proud of his expertise, and me of course thinking, my wouldn't they make the directions correct to begin with. I also have my tech sheets, but the instruction are no different from the tech sheet to the part install. -Press and Hold Door Alarm -Press and Hold Freezer - -Release Door Alarm and wait 3 seconds -Control will show PE (I have yet to see this without the PE0 000 I know the model code is 0302 CAN SOMEONE PLEASE HELP !!!!!!! WHAT AM I MISSING??????
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| Posted: Sat Sep 1st, 2007 05:13 pm |
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47th Post |
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Yamahog Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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Quick update**** By holding the freezer door open I can get the display to show PE and 0 000 be blank. I assumed this was the data entry mode however, when I press the fridge - or + to entry the digits it goes back to PE H20 or ICE on the display which consequently does in fact switch between the 2 modes, but does not changes the digit value as the programming instructions state. Also the freezer + which is suppsed to change the decimal place, simply reset the whole process. IS ANYONE AROUND ON A SATURDAY OF A HOLIDAY WEEKEND?? I called our extended warranty company and they will have someone call me back Tuesday to set an appt. I know the compressor is now off, and I have a frdige full of food for a Sunday BBQ... PLEASE HELP ME
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| Posted: Sat Sep 1st, 2007 05:24 pm |
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48th Post |
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Yamahog Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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For anyone else who is an idiot like me, it seems the freezer door should be open, (alteast on mine) the please pay careful attention to step 5 -After getting the PE to show with no number press the freezer down again... this gets the decimal to show and allows programming mode to allow data entry. I am still going to have the warranty company come out, but I will put the old board in when they do, so when they order another new board, I will have an extra on hand. Thanks for all of the help LMAO
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| Posted: Sat Sep 1st, 2007 06:25 pm |
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49th Post |
jabko
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The Programming Method 1. Press and HOLD down the alarm keypad 2. Press and hold the Freezer Temp DOWN Keypad ( - ) 3. Release the Door Alarm Keypad and wait 3 Seconds 4. The control will display PE to initate the program mode 5. Entry is confirmed by pressung the Freezed temp Down Keypad (-) once more. 6. The control will display the CURRENT program code. This value should be validated with the Program CODE printed on the unit serial plate. NOTE: If the program CODE is correct, The programming Mode is exited by closing the Refrigerator door(s). 7. Press the Refrigerator Temp UP Keypad (+) or the Refrigerator Down Keypad (-) to change the digit value with each key press. 8. The decimal point indicates the selected digit. Press the Freezer Temp UP keypad (+) to select the next digit 9. Once the desired program code is displayed, press and hold the Freezer DOWN (-) keypad until the progam CODE begins flashing indicating it has been saved. Good Luck and Have a Blessed Holiday and BBQ
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| Posted: Sat Sep 1st, 2007 07:41 pm |
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50th Post |
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Yamahog Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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Thanks ..... the key to this working for me is that the freezer (maybe it could have any door) needed to be open. Then of course step 5 needed to be followed..
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| Posted: Tue Sep 4th, 2007 07:47 pm |
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51st Post |
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rdellar17 Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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We had the same blinking issue... Fridge 3 months out of warranty. Started at 3:30 am and woke the whole family up. I read this thread's posts and bought the parts at Radio Shack... But then I noticed that a few posters on another forum (http://www.complaintsboard.com/complaints/5247/page/5) had luck getting Maytag to replace to part and cover the labor even out of warranty. I figured getting a whole new board would be better just in case there were other improvements. So I called Maytag and literally within 5 minutes they had faxed authorization to a local repair shop to fix the fridge. (Parts and labor included.) Maybe I got lucky. (Here are the details of what I said: I mentioned that I read online that Maytag was replacing the board even when the Fridge was out of warranty. The tech put me on hold and checked with the supervisor and she said they would cover it. They looked up a local repair shop for me and sent the authorization.) The good news is that we have an excellent local repair shop. They ordered the part overnight and replaced it the next business day. They used Part # 12920710 (BOARD HV C). Also I noticed that Maytag used a different brand of capacitors on the entire board. (Not just on the two that have been going bad.) And like everyone else said the capacitors on the old board were ballooned up. Now I just hope we don’t have the ice maker go out like so many others have had happen to them. Last edited on Wed Sep 5th, 2007 12:54 am by rdellar17 |
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| Posted: Tue Sep 4th, 2007 08:02 pm |
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52nd Post |
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Yamahog Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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On Saturday, my extended warranty company insisted I would be contacted within 24 hours, even on a holiday weekend, due to a fridge being considered a emergency (according to them) I still have not hear anything
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| Posted: Wed Sep 5th, 2007 08:08 pm |
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53rd Post |
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Tryingmebest Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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Wow - I have the exact problem and it happen 3 months out warrenty! I am impressed this site. I talked to a local repairman and he averages between 5 to 10 of these a month. I unpluggeg the front panel and it seems to be working for the moment, but he said they eventually fail which seesm to make sens if capacitor related. Boards cost $149 and a take a week (use to be a month) Rdellar17, Which number did you call.? Any name in particular you can share? My own expereince is Maytag will deny problems, but if you continue to push, you can get a response. I think the fix is easy enough, but will try this first. I am going to buy the extended warrenty on this one Last edited on Wed Sep 5th, 2007 08:10 pm by Tryingmebest |
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| Posted: Wed Sep 5th, 2007 09:21 pm |
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54th Post |
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Tryingmebest Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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rdellar17 is correct - I called 1-800-688-9900. They were very aware of the problem and they agreed to make a policy adjustment and cover it. I was very impressed. Only challenge I have is that we do not have a local service shop, so trying to make sure they have the board BEFORE they arrive.
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| Posted: Wed Sep 5th, 2007 10:57 pm |
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55th Post |
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rdellar17 Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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Tryingmebest wrote: rdellar17 is correct - I called 1-800-688-9900. They were very aware of the problem and they agreed to make a policy adjustment and cover it. I was very impressed. Yup that's the same number I used. They should be able to rush order the board overnight. But that might just be something our local (privately owned) service shop does. Either way Maytag covered it. Good luck!
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