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ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Kitchen Appliance Repair Forum > Maytag MFI2568AES Ref. French doors / freezer draw 1.5 years old

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Maytag MFI2568AES Ref. French doors / freezer draw 1.5 years old  Rating:  Rating
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 Posted: Thu Jun 28th, 2007 02:38 pm
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OAR
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 I did the same thing so that my customers could get some sleep while I waited on the repair of the board, that dispenser door is noisy!!!!!



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 Posted: Thu Jun 28th, 2007 08:54 pm
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jabko



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 Just installed a corrected board, installed new 680uf caps and installed today and seems to be running fine, also the code was the same on this board when it was removed 0302 so there was no need to reprogram, so far all three failures I have seen use the same code on the serial plate.
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 Posted: Fri Jul 6th, 2007 02:11 am
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sd
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 I just had the same flashing lights and door flapping crazies only when the compressor kicked in.  Started 3am of course.  A scant 3 months after the warrantee expired, also of course. 

After locating this site, I figured that if the HV Control Board needed replacing, I could try the fix from this forum and see what happens. 

Once opened up, you could tell the caps we going bad as the tops dome up and they were hot to the touch while others were not.  That's how electrolytic caps go bad.  They heat up, actually expand, lose capacitance, results in the power supply becoming very noisy (especially under load), makes a mess of microcontroller circuits which then tend to create false logic and/or reset themselves randomly.

Interesting tidbit, looking at the board, the caps are wired in parallel so it's an effective 1360uF of filter capacitance on the DC supply side.  Thus any single or combo of caps close to that should work.  I bought a 1000uF and 470uF 35v 20% tolerance cap for under $4 from Radio Shack (1470uF total - better to err on the high side) which is close enough considering the tolerance for filter caps and installed them.

Voila !  As described by others here, the problem was solved.  You can add my board to the list of "experiments" now successfully running Maytag Ice2o boxes.

I have pics I can show before and after if interested.

I've also joined and added the suggested token to the fund to help keep this forum going. 

Thanks guys.
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 Posted: Fri Jul 6th, 2007 09:36 am
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jabko



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 The boards I rebuild I used the same 680mf caps based on 50volt just for a extra margin of protection, never checked the supply voltage to see how close they where to the rated 35volt originals , so far the one I installed seems to be doing well at this ponit, and as I mentioned the manf. has changed the brand name it appears on the replacement boards, just possibly cheap caps were used in the original manf. glad to see it work for you also.................and you are correct about the expansion on the tops from the swelling a easy way to idenify the problem.....John
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 Posted: Fri Jul 13th, 2007 12:10 am
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buddys
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 i awoke at 100am this morning to the dreaded sound of the ice2o ice dispenser flapper, flapping adnauseum.  after reading the posts i disconnected the ribbon cable located under the upper door hinge and was able to get back to sleep.  during the day i procured 2 capacitors from radio shack, 470uf and 1000uf, both 35vdc for around 3 dollars.

after dinner i performed the lobotomy without a hitch.

detailed before/after pics are available on request, they are too big to upload here.

thanks very much to everyboby for the posts.  i am now a novitiate in perpetuity.

 

 
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 Posted: Sat Jul 14th, 2007 02:34 pm
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carynd
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 Thanks to your guidance and complaintboards.com I was able to resolve this flashing/flapping problem myself and I am no mechanic.  Ordered the HV control board from Marcone, asked them to send it overnight and paid 185.39.  Solved the problem immediately after programming.  Yippee!  More than happy to donate to the beer fund!  We'll keep this site on our favorites list for next time...:shock: Argh!  Thanks again samurai friends!
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 Posted: Sat Jul 14th, 2007 11:44 pm
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331miles
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 I came in from working in the yard today and heard the flapper flapping.  Saw the carnival lights of the control pad blinking erratically. :shock:  Tried the ol' ctrl-alt-delete (unplug-replug).   Worked until the compressor kicked on.  Prepared to call a repairman.

My wife didn't give up so easy :yikes:.  She found this website, and said she thought I could fix our 1.25 year old piece o junk Maytag ice2whatever.  I have an engineering edumacashun, but so what.  I never practice electronic repair, and am a complete novice.  Had to go to Radio Snack and buy the caps, an actual iron, braid, vacuum nozzle, and tips.  $25 and a little over an hour later, and the fridge is running like a champ.

I may never post again, but I felt obliged to join up.  $5 won't quite buy a sixer of Kirin, but it'll get you most of the way there.

THANKS TO ALL THE POSTERS THAT HAVE COME BEFORE ME AND SOLVED THIS PROBLEM!  When there was only one set of footprints in the sand, the Samurai Appliance Repair Forum was carrying me.  :cool:
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 Posted: Sun Jul 15th, 2007 11:12 am
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jawzilla
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 Had this fridge 17 months now. Had the icemaker replacement done under warranty and then the flapping, blinking problem started yesterday. Bought the 2 680uF 35V radial electrolytic caps at our local electronics surplus for 25 cents each. Bought extra for when it goes out in another 17 months :yikes: Just want to say thanks. The fix worked like a champ.
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 Posted: Sun Jul 15th, 2007 05:20 pm
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Privateer
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Just changed the caps out!  Fridge running again like new!!!

This was an incredibly simple repair!!  Do not be intimidated by this - it was EASY, and FUN to do!!

Got the parts from Radio Shack.  Told the guy what I was doing and he gave me some very helpful tips on soldering.  In all, I spent $3.87 for BOTH caps!!!!

Opened the panel in back - just 4 screws.  Unplugged all the plugs, and popped the board right out.  I recommend using buddys's pics, just send him a private message, and he'll email the pics to you.  If you can't get in touch with him, then send me a message and I'll email the pics.

Soldering was easy, and if you have almost no experience at it, you can still do this.  Old caps came right off.  A tip the Radio Shack guy told me - after taking off the old caps, heat up the holes and have someone blow air through the holes with a drinking straw.  Work on one hole at a time.  This will open the holes for you, the solder will "peak" around the hole.  Then slip the new cap in (work on one at a time, and make sure you get the polarity right) and use the solder that's around the hole to attach he new caps.  Worked great!!

I cannot express how grateful I am to the Samurai, and to buddys for the help!!  In all, I spent $5 to sign up here, plus $3.87 for the parts.  Soldering iron, flux I had on hand.  I live in southeast Louisiana and we have recovered from the storm, but some problems still exist, like how hard it is to get a repair man out to fix appliances.  We called a repair guy and made an appointment next week (if he even shows) - would have had to pay his "minimum" plus time, and for the whole board - probably around $200-$250 for this repair! AND I would have had to wait for the board to come in - 2 to 3 weeks?! OR pay extra for over-night?  Hell, for the money you guys saved us, wife and I can go out and have lunch at Galatoire's this Fri.!!! 

Thanks again for the help Sam. & buddys!!  And please anyone that has a question PLEASE pm me.

Privateer.

P.S. - A donation to the beer fund will follow.... 
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 Posted: Sun Jul 15th, 2007 07:44 pm
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Keinokuorma
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 I'm not trying to start an argument, but I always use new solder to solder in new components, and remove the old stuff with wick if possible. Too often the old solder refuses to make good bonding with the new component. Especially with semiconductor parts being soldered on, or even having one near the area, it is often crucial that you heat the joint as shortly as possible. Capacitors and resistors of course aren't nearly as sensitive. When working with little space between tracings, too often the old solder also just bridges over if you try to reuse it. Adding flux isn't always a solution, because when lead evaporates from the alloy, it becomes sluggish to run and difficult to manage.



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 Posted: Sun Jul 15th, 2007 08:47 pm
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Privateer
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 No arguement here, Keinokuorma.  You certainly sound like the voice of experience.  I did look at the new soldered joints real good, lots of solder around the pins.  Actually looked just like it did when the bad caps were on.  But the great thing about this is, if I do need to go back and wick the old solder away and add new, that would be a piece of cake to do!  Thanks for the advice! 
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 Posted: Sun Jul 15th, 2007 11:25 pm
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carynd
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 Okay.  So I replaced the HV control board, everything starts running as normal.  Leave it going for several hours and it's cool but not cold.  Instant thermometer says 57 or so, after sitting overnight, 48 degrees.  No ice is being produced, water in door is working properly.  A&E is SUPPOSED to come Tues, but that's what they said last week and the week before that.  So does anyone have a suggestion for a novice to fix this so I can tell them don't bother coming, it's already taken care of? I'd appreciate any suggestions, I'm so frustrated with this thing, the flapping and lights have stopped at least.  :yikes:  Please help....Thanks
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 Posted: Sun Jul 29th, 2007 12:34 am
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sd
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 It sounds like there has been some success replacing the caps for folks with the same issue.

For those who might be a bit timid in trying the cap replacement fix themselves, with my computer back up and running, I've created a step-by-step guide of my experience in: 

a) stopping the flapping until you can get the parts from Radio Shack
     (because this invariably happens at 3am), 
b) remove/repair/reinstall the HV Control board and the 2 caps, and
c)  put it all back together.   Lots of pics.

Not a Heathkit-level instruction manual, and you'll have to sloth through the needed disclaimers :poison: and my vain attempt at wit ;). 

If this helps someone, great.   If not, then it'll just sit out there until I have to re-install WinDoze again...

Suggestions for improving/updating the doc welcome.

Link to the doc:  http://www.liny.net/MaytagIce2O.htm  (828kb or I'd post it here)

It is hoped the contributions that a simple Apprentice Appliantologist can make back to the community might be viewed favorably by the Masters of the Site....
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 Posted: Sun Jul 29th, 2007 01:01 am
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Pegi
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 Sd, what a wonderful document!  Written with humor and details...thank you so much, I have it saved to my pc here and will do so also at my business....what a find this evening...you have a good one also.....Thanks, Pegi



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 Posted: Sun Jul 29th, 2007 11:48 am
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Keinokuorma
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 carynd, unless you already had the repairman come and fix the thing... you may have a broken thermistor, or weak connection to one. Or, if it is repaired, and it was something else, please post back what it was.



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 Posted: Mon Jul 30th, 2007 01:17 pm
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pintotheman
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 sd wrote: It sounds like there has been some success replacing the caps for folks with the same issue.

For those who might be a bit timid in trying the cap replacement fix themselves, with my computer back up and running, I've created a step-by-step guide of my experience in: 

a) stopping the flapping until you can get the parts from Radio Shack
     (because this invariably happens at 3am), 
b) remove/repair/reinstall the HV Control board and the 2 caps, and
c)  put it all back together.   Lots of pics.

Not a Heathkit-level instruction manual, and you'll have to sloth through the needed disclaimers :poison: and my vain attempt at wit ;). 

If this helps someone, great.   If not, then it'll just sit out there until I have to re-install WinDoze again...

Suggestions for improving/updating the doc welcome.

Link to the doc:  http://www.liny.net/MaytagIce2O.htm  (828kb or I'd post it here)

It is hoped the contributions that a simple Apprentice Appliantologist can make back to the community might be viewed favorably by the Masters of the Site....

For some reason when I click on the link above the page will not open, would it be possible to send a new link or someone email me the document? Thanks.
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 Posted: Mon Jul 30th, 2007 03:26 pm
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Keinokuorma
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 Damnit, just had it opened here a day or two ago... yes it seems dead now. But haven't saved it anywhere... can't find anywhere on my computer either...

sd, could you try and compress the document with WinZip or a similar program, then post it right here? Or offer it to S.A.R.M. to archive on his fixitnow.com site, or sumpting like that?

Last edited on Mon Jul 30th, 2007 03:27 pm by Keinokuorma



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 Posted: Mon Jul 30th, 2007 04:10 pm
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Pegi
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 I have it saved to my laptop at the house, can send it to the Samruai and he can save it in here if you guys would like me to do this?



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 Posted: Tue Jul 31st, 2007 12:36 am
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sd
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 Appears to have been a glitch on the server when the thunderstorms came thru and we had a brief power outage.   Looks like one of the components wasn't on the battery backup and lost some settings.  Fixed it and it's back online and accessible now.  Have at it.

http://www.liny.net/MaytagIce2O.htm

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 Posted: Wed Aug 1st, 2007 10:06 am
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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 Fantastic doc, SD!  Very professionally done and complete with disclaimers.  :dude:



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