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ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Kitchen Appliance Repair Forum > JTP56 GE double wall oven |
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| JTP56 GE double wall oven | Rate Topic |
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| Posted: Tue Mar 6th, 2007 06:15 pm |
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1st Post |
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smosh Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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My ovens are about 5 years old, cleaned them probably two years ago. A few months ago, I got the dreaded F7 error, and, thanks to this site, ordered and replaced the ERC and the touchpad. Worked like a champ. I had some spills, so yesterday I tried to self-clean. This may not be relevant, but full disclosure: after I hit start, I realized I hadn't removed the racks. I hit clear/off several times, and eventually I could get the door open. I removed the racks and tried again. It doesn't fire up the self-cleaning cycle. It says "door" and 'locked' blinks. After a few seconds, 'door' goes away and the clock returns. Then 'locked' goes away. Back to normal. Doors (top and bottom) lock and unlock before it goes back to normal. And, the ovens seem to work ok. Any ideas? I certainly wanted to avoid another $300 in parts! Thanks!
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| Posted: Wed Mar 7th, 2007 10:10 am |
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2nd Post |
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology 
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The door lock mechanism may be bent; may have bad connections at the lock motor; the motor may be going bad; may not be getting voltage to the motor. You'll need to tear down enough to access the door lock mechanism so you can check these things out. You'll need your meter, too.
____________________ To ask a question, use our new forums==> http://appliantology.org 365-Day No-Hassle Return Policy on all parts purchased through this site, even electrical parts that have been installed! |
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| Posted: Wed Mar 7th, 2007 11:25 am |
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3rd Post |
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smosh Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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does it matter that neither oven will self-clean? I would assume that each has its own mechanism and motor. thanks for the reply!
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| Posted: Wed Mar 7th, 2007 12:07 pm |
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4th Post |
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology
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Indeed! Then we need to go back to what both door locks have in common. You get one guess... 
____________________ To ask a question, use our new forums==> http://appliantology.org 365-Day No-Hassle Return Policy on all parts purchased through this site, even electrical parts that have been installed! |
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| Posted: Wed Mar 7th, 2007 01:25 pm |
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5th Post |
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smosh Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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E....R.....C.
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| Posted: Thu Mar 8th, 2007 12:23 am |
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6th Post |
Jedi Appliance Guy
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Did your new ERC come with a new door latch assembly?
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| Posted: Thu Mar 8th, 2007 01:10 am |
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7th Post |
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smosh Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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i don't think so - i got the ERC and the touch pad from repairclinic.com: Item#: 911154 Description: Electronic clock control kit Price: $169.15 Quantity: 1 Item Total: $169.15 ------------------------------------- Item#: 947085 Description: Touchpad & control panel assembly, black Price: $139.95 Quantity: 1 Item Total: $139.95 or maybe the clock unit isn't the ERC? I don't remember there being a motor unit.
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| Posted: Thu Mar 8th, 2007 01:24 am |
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8th Post |
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology
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The clock is just a friendly name for the ERC. You need to go to the ERC with your meter and the wiring diagram and measure to see if the ERC is putting out 120vac to the door lock mechanism(s). If you're getting door lock motor voltage at the ERC, then there's a wiring or connection problem somewhere between there and the door lock motors. Otherwise, no voltage at all on the ERC at the output pin for the door lock motor and, well, you connect the dots.
____________________ To ask a question, use our new forums==> http://appliantology.org 365-Day No-Hassle Return Policy on all parts purchased through this site, even electrical parts that have been installed! |
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| Posted: Wed May 23rd, 2007 12:17 am |
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9th Post |
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wannafixitmyself Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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 Maybe it's the ribbon cable connector: GE's touch pad bugs me. First F7, now door lock. Last year my JTP56 was giving me the F7, then F0. Beeping was driving me to drink (Guiness of course). Anyhow, instead of replacing the ERC or touchpad, I pulled the 19 pin connector ribbon cable out and cleaned the contacts with an eraser. Seemed to work for about 3 or 4 months. Regular cleanings appeared to temporarily correct the problem. I then went to Radio Shack for some Pro gold contact cleaner/restorer. The mere threat must have scared the oven because it corrected itself and continued to work flawlessly for about a year for some unexplained reason, and I didn't have to use the cleaner. Last the week the beeping started again with an F0. I dug in a drawer and found that contact cleaner and went to work on the contacts. Well I must have been a little over zealous because the ribbon cable seated very loosely in the 19 pin connector after all my scrubbing. Now I was despondant after flipping the breaker only to find that half the keypad wouldn't work and wouldn't respond to my finger pushing. Well I really screwed up this time! As a last ditch effort it occurred to me to use a small jewler's screwdrive to bend each of the pins on the 19 pin connector so that the ribbon cable would seat more securely. Perfect. It works flawlessly so far, and so I'm beginning to wonder if all these ERC and keypad replacements are really needed and that perhaps that ribbon cable connector gets loose throught expansion because of the oven's heat. Anyhow it has worked in my case and perhaps the cable is an issue with your door lock malfunction.
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| Posted: Sun Jul 13th, 2008 07:56 pm |
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10th Post |
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wannafixitmyself Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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 Like clockwork the dreaded F7 hit again on the GE JTP56 Double Oven. Well the good news is it's July 13, 2008. In my last post on this subj of May 2007 I had cleaned the ribbon cable and the problem self-corrected. I also placed paper stock between the two layers of ribbon cable as I read from another post had helped someone else out in preventing a short of some sort. The "Pro-gold" seemed to have done the trick for a while for a year so I guess it's time to try it again. I cleaned those contacts again (not the silver side, but the brown side which is the conductive side, slipped it back in and it seems to be working. Wife whipped up a batch of muffins already, and I'm enjoying the fruits of my labor. So again, I ask is the problem really with the keypad and/or ECR, or is it the cheap little conductor and contacts that are used in this product. My oven has been working for two years with just some cable adjustment and annual contact cleaning. The fact is the F7 and F0 error code did occur 2 years ago. If those error codes occur because the keypad or the ERC unit were defective, how is it that the oven can function for a year error free since 2006 with just a ribbon cable cleaning. Replacing either the ECR or the keypad probably work because you get either a new cable for a new set of contacts with the part.
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| Posted: Mon Jul 14th, 2008 12:01 am |
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11th Post |
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certified tech group 51 Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology 
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Out here on the Oregon coast (see the road to work... In the general apl section) The salt air wrecks havoc on connections-light bulb sockets-autos (I.E coast cancer -body rust to the rest of you ) When I get a service call , keypad/ touch pad not responding... I remove the ribbon cable and clean the contacts with an emory board, one that has four sections, the smoothest section, one swipe only, reassemble, test. Almost every time, the bake and broil will operate, if not, I look for burnt componants on the board and replace.... ( I carry contact cleaner on the van, just in case , you have to be carefull of the overspray)...
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| Posted: Tue Jul 15th, 2008 08:09 pm |
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12th Post |
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wannafixitmyself Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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Emory board sounds like a great idea. I'll try it next time, carefully. So far, everything is still working.
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| Posted: Sat May 16th, 2009 09:12 pm |
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13th Post |
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wannafixitmyself Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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It is time again for the annual JTP56 Spring cleaning. May 16, 2009. It's almost been a year since my last F7 error. It must be the humidity or the heat. Just today my GE double oven gave me the F7 again after so many months of useful service from the last time I fixed F7. I have been fixing F7 for three years now and it usuall occurs every 7 - 12 months, but it only take 5 minutes to fix. I believe the issue is in either the ribbon cable or the ribbon cable connector. They get dirty. Just turn off the circuit breaker to the oven; remove the front panel (2 screws and three nuts; remove then lift up front panel to remove). Disconnect the ribbon cable and clean it with a clean eraser on both sides. Wipe off clean, reinsert, and you should be good to go for a year. If this does not work; there is another thread going around telling you to insert a piece of paper between the two pieces of ribbon cable. That has also helped me although I'm not sure why. Almost nine years of service, and I still haven't replaced any ERC or touchpads. (knock on wood) Last edited on Sat May 16th, 2009 09:15 pm by wannafixitmyself |
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| Posted: Sun May 17th, 2009 10:10 am |
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14th Post |
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Budget Appliance Repair Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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Next time you might want to take a Q-tip and smear a dap of vaseline over the opening of the slot where the keypad ribbon cable slides into. Then slide the ribbon cable in. The vaseline will provide a protective barrier to help keep it from oxidizing. Maybe it will last longer then a 7-12 months each time.
____________________ William Burk (Willie) Willie's Budget Appliance Repair Eureka, CA 95501 |
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| Posted: Sat Jun 13th, 2009 09:17 pm |
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15th Post |
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ken47 Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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I just saw your litany of ribbon cleaning. I have been doing the same thing for over a year (every 3 to 6 months). I've used the erasor and contact cleaner. This last time the oven would not work, so I thought one of the boards could be bad. I finally found by pulling the ribbon forward everything worked fine. So I put a rubber band around the ribbon to pull it forward and it has worked fine for a few weeks now. My question is have you heard of using the conductive pens that are used to recoat circuit board traces? I don't know how that would hold up, but I want to try to improve the contact from the ribbon to the connector. The conductive pens could possibly help. Don't know?
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| Posted: Fri Dec 11th, 2009 09:53 pm |
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16th Post |
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wannafixitmyself Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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Ken, I have not heard of using a conductive pen. Sounds like a great idea. I'm not sure how they work. What would worry me is accidentally shorting out the ribbon cable. What's bugs me most is that the connector doesn't really seem to be a quality connector. Frankly I'd like to solder the ribbon cable to the connector, but I'm sure I'd goof it up. Well I'm deployed overseas, and my wife just called yesterday to tell me she got the dreaded F7. She can barely use a screwdriver, but I talk her through it over the phone, and she did it. Hopefully it will last long enough for me to look at more closely in Feb 2010 when I return. Good luck. GE should just go ahead and admit their mistake and send us all newer thicker cables or something.
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