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- > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Kitchen Appliance Repair Forum > Kenmore/Frigidaire freezer -- blowing control modules

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Kenmore/Frigidaire freezer -- blowing control modules  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Sun Feb 18th, 2007 07:49 am
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Budget Appliance Repair
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Kenmore Chest Freezer
Mod# 253.14592101
Ser# WB50320069

Problem was completely dead, not even the light works.

This unit doesn't have the normal standard simple cold control, it's all computer board and digital temp set control.

The wiring diagram leave lots to be desired, just shows lines from user interface module to main electronic control module. Nothing about what voltages should be where.

Had 120volts coming into module, so I say it needs at least the main control module, (Part# 216979700).

Another thing the customer told me was, "about a week or two before the unit died the user interface, (digital temp display had gone out), but unit still worked find". I told him I would replace the control module and maybe that would take care of the display also, but there was a chance the display module/user interface would need replacing also.

I received the part and installed it, plugged the freezer in . After about a second I heard one of the control module relays click in and the compressor started, it was even starting to cool in less then 15 minutes, but the user interface/display was out, light worked ok now.

Figured the control module has a default temp setting of 0 to 6 degrees and if that was ok with the customer they wouldn't need to replace the interface/display board. He said ok.

I collected the money and went on my way thinking all was ok. Got a call the next day, customer said unit ran fine for about 8 hours then died, not even the light works again.

I downloaded the chest freezer repair info from the Electrolux service site but it has nothing about the units with the computer control module -- all there info was about the standard coldcontrol types.

And from a cross ref site, it only came up with 3 other model# that use that same control board, (all Kenmore, so of coarse no service info).

Here's the 3 other models:
Kenmore FREEZER 25314092101
Kenmore FREEZER 25314592100
Kenmore FREEZER 25324092101

Can anyone help me with tech info on this unit or what maybe blowing these boards out? Do you think a bad user interface/display board would take out the new control module?



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William Burk (Willie)
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 Posted: Sun Feb 18th, 2007 09:03 am
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That Guy



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I found this:

http://www.abtelectronics.com/images/products/PDF_Files/glfu2067_parts.pdf

Not much help. Is it like the one your working on?

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 Posted: Mon Feb 19th, 2007 09:25 am
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No, the one I'm working on is a chest freezer/Manual defrost.

More like this one: http://www.abtelectronics.com/images/products/PDF_Files/glfc2528_wiring.pdf

This newer model uses a variable resistor cold control, the one I'm working on is all controled by the user interface on the lid handle, (no turn knob control).

If you take a look at the above wiring diagram, well that is basically the same as I'm working with, pretty obvious where 120volts should be coming into the board, but from there, forget it, (what kind of voltages are going to the user interface? How to diagnose the user interface, it's dead so just replace it?).

On this newer model the light is controled by the standard switch, (swith open-light off, switch closed-light on). On the one I'm working on even the light is control by the "Hi-Voltage control module", the light switch is wired into the control module and when it opens or closes it tells the module to open/close the light relay on the control module.

Can anyone give me any help on finding a technical manual on the Frigidaire model# GLFC2528FW0 -- Maybe some of the technical info will be of use to me on the Kenmore I'm working on.



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 Posted: Mon Feb 19th, 2007 05:25 pm
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Looks like the electronic module is providing low voltage DC to
the user interface. Can you gain access to both sides of the circuit
board on the electronic module? Or do they have it to where you
cant get inside of it?

Last edited on Mon Feb 19th, 2007 05:25 pm by Gmaxx

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 Posted: Tue Feb 20th, 2007 10:10 am
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The electronic module is suppling the voltage to the user interface board, 5volts.

The only way to get to the user interface board is to remove/destroy the stick-on overlay to get to the two screws that hold the handle, (which houses the interface), on. I think I can solve that problem by just cutting holes in the overlay where the screws are and then filling them with silicone when I'm done, (If the customer is ok with that, to save about $25 for the overlay).

I took the old, (thought to be bad), module home to do some testing on and just had time tonight to do that.

I think the module maybe ok. I hooked the old module up to a 110volt cheater cord and in one second the compressor relay clicked on, I tested the transformer and was getting 8.88volts AC on one tap and 17.76volts AC on the other tap. The relays that control the light/defrost/compressor are all 12volt DC relays, (they are receiving around 15.5volts DC when they activate), and the user interface cord is getting 4.98volts DC. I'm sure there are power regulator chips on the board and diodes that are stablizing, reducing and converting the AC 17.76v and 8.88v to the respective 15.5v DC & 4.98v DC.

The only thing that is really throwing me for a loop on trying to figure the board out is this:

The board is powered up, one second later the compressor relay clicks in. Now I check for line voltage from neutral to the compressor, light, or defrost output terminals and they all have 110volts.

I jump the light switch terminals and the light relay clicks in but the voltage at the light output terminal always stays at 110volts.

Jumped an extra unused terminal plug block, (I have no idea what it is for, nothing was plugged into it), but by jumping two of the pins it deactivated the compressor relay but the compressor output terminal still had 110volts.

Now, keep in mind, I really don't know board level diagnoses, or electronic circuitry. I now what resistors, diodes, capacitors, etc. some basics, maybe just enough to be dangerous.

Each of the relays have a 74ohm resistor bridging the relay contact which maybe what is feeding the 110volts though even when the relay is open. I have no load on the circuit, so maybe with a load on the circuit the relays are controling I would get the correct readings????

This board also has a 9volt battery backup to keep your choosen temp settings and to activate the temp alarm if the power goes out. I'm thinking maybe when I pulled the old board out to look it over and then put it back in maybe one of the capacitors was holding a charge and keeping a memory setting in the old board telling it to stay off because when I got there and when I finished, plugging the unit in got no kind of response from the board, (relay click noises).

Now the board has been out and setting in a box for a few days and I power it up and the compressor relay kicks in after one second just like the new fresh board did as soon as I installed it.

This is what I'm starting to think, the user interface originally died, power was still to unit so all settings were stored in control module, then a week or two after the user interface died they just happened to have a power outage, (they did tell me they had the power outage just before the whole unit quit operating - I figured a power surge took out board), battery backup was probably dead since it had been in unit for almost two years so control module lost all memory setting. Default temp setting may not be 0 or 6 degrees like I was figuring so unit ran long enough to cool down a little and then stopped, maybe they didn't wait long enough for it to startup again.

But the thing that throws that out the window, it was off and unplugged for at least 3 or 4 days before I came over to even look at it and it would not startup when plugged in.

I'm going to call them today and tell them to remove the new battery they installed and then wait about 2 hours and plug it back in and see if it will startup again.

Hopefully if anyone has taken the time to read through this you can give me some ideas as where to head with this.

Thanks for the time guys and girls.........



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 Posted: Tue Feb 20th, 2007 01:39 pm
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Gmaxx



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Budget Appliance Repair wrote: The only way to get to the user interface board is to remove/destroy the stick-on overlay to get to the two screws that hold the handle, (which houses the interface), on. I think I can solve that problem by just cutting holes in the overlay where the screws are and then filling them with silicone when I'm done, (If the customer is ok with that, to save about $25 for the overlay).
Hold off on tearing into the interface.
I wasnt referring to the the interface board but rather the electronic power module. Earlier you were asking questions about the output voltage. I was attempting to see if I could help trace down what those voltages are supposed to be and where.

Last edited on Tue Feb 20th, 2007 01:51 pm by Gmaxx

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 Posted: Wed Feb 21st, 2007 08:11 am
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I just wish someone who has some experience with this overdesigned excuse for a freezer would chime in here with some clues for me.


One more thing to add, the unit is outside and it's been kind of cold out lately, but not freezing. It was in a outside plastic storage shed the first 2 years of life and it worked fine. But I'm sure that was at a freezer set temp of around 0 to 6 degrees.

The temp at night around here drops down to maybe 38-39 degrees at the coldest around the time this all happened, (maybe a few nights of around 35). So if the default start temp on control at startup with no user input isn't like 6 degrees, maybe it's at the highest setting, (which I don't know what it is), I would think maybe 32-34 at the warmest settings??

When I put the new control module in it was around 3-4pm and the customer said he went out around 8pm to put stuff in it and it was off, (the outside temp. if I had to guess would have been around 40-45degrees).

The thing that really is causing my head to hunt trying to figure out in my mind what is going on is on both control modules when the unit was dead, even the light circuit was dead. It is only a 5volt dc sense circuit thru the light switch to tell the control board that the switch is open or closed, which then the electronics on the board tell the light relay to open/close.

I don't know what the voltage is that is suppose to go to the user interface module because none of that is on the tech sheet, (if you can even call what they give you a tech sheet!!!). But, 4.98Volts Dc sounds like what I would suspect see going to a low voltage control board.

The 4.98volts Dc is what I have coming out the the user interface cord on the red and black wires when I tested the old unit on a cheater cord. There are four wires that go to the user interface/display board - red, black, yellow, blue. It stands to reason that red and black are +/- power and the yellow and blue would be what transfer the user settings to the control module and maybe the current freezer temp back to the display?



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 Posted: Wed Feb 21st, 2007 08:12 am
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Hey!!!! Samurai, You have any experience with these?????



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 Posted: Thu Feb 22nd, 2007 07:35 am
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MAN!!! This thing is going to drive me nuts......

I tried the old board again tonight on a test cord and put a load on the light circuit and it works perfectly, moved the load, (a 40watt light bulb), to the compressor circuit and it works perfectly.

Took the load out of the system and just checked for 120volts at the compressor/defrost/light output and they all show the correct voltage, 0volts when off and 120volts when on, (unlike the night before when the outputs all showed 120volts rather the relays were energized or not)....... AUUGGGGGGHHHHH what's going on.

Also, told customer to plug the freezer back in just for kicks to see if it would start up again, sure enough started up and started cooling. I will talk to him again tommorrow and see if it stayed running and freezing.

Also, ordered the userinterface board and will install that when it comes in just to make sure all is right.



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 Posted: Thu Feb 22nd, 2007 11:16 am
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Budget Appliance Repair wrote: Hey!!!! Samurai, You have any experience with these?????
You're blazing new trail here, Willie me-lad.  Without a schematic on that board, you're pretty much relying on luck and good looks to figger out what's wrong with it. 

The problem essentially distills down to troubleshooting an electronic board without a schematic.  There are techniques for doing this and Homer Davidson does a pretty good job of explaining them in his book, Troubleshooting and Repairing Consumer Electronics Without a Schematic.



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 Posted: Mon Feb 26th, 2007 09:06 am
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Not so much blazing new trail, I could really care less about actually diagnosing the the board itself.

What I was trying for was just any help on diagnosing this thing in gereral, a service manual maybe???

On the very lacking "Data Sheet" it mentions refer to service manual PD642 -- you by anychance have access to this???

Or know what the thermistor ohms should be at ?temp., the thermistor that this one uses is part# 297018401

Thanks................



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 Posted: Tue Feb 27th, 2007 01:00 am
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I don't have any manuals for this online; the only thing I've found that *may* help is this printed manual.  I don't personally own this manual so cannot vouch for the veracity or its contents or its relevance to your particular dilemma. 



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 Posted: Tue Feb 27th, 2007 06:54 am
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Thanks for trying, but that just appears to be this manual: # Next Generation Side By Side (5995352423) that is available on the http://www.frigidaire.com/tip/ site.

I already downloaded the 2000-2001 freezer manual and the Frost Free Chest Freezer manual and they have been no help at all.

This is a Manual Defrost Chest Freezer (Kenmore Elite)- Jan2005 model.



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 Posted: Wed Jul 11th, 2007 10:12 am
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Ok, to close out this repair........ Sorry just found it for someone else having a problem with one of these.


The user interface board where you input the temp/quick freeze/alarm was bad. Board was all rusted and shorted from the moisture that the board is no way protected from in the lid of the freezer.

You have to remove the complete lid liner to gain access to the user interface board. When I installed the new one, I silconed a piece of plastic sheeting over it to hopefully protect it from any futher moisture damage.



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 Posted: Wed Jul 11th, 2007 11:05 am
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Thanks for posting the solution to this one, Willie. This is one for the playbook!



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