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- > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Kitchen Appliance Repair Forum > GE Range Model JBP24GR2WH - Door not unlocking

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GE Range Model JBP24GR2WH - Door not unlocking  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Wed Feb 7th, 2007 07:28 pm
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WannaAppliance
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Hi;  This is a circa-1992 range, with analog clock and timers.  Tried to self clean, then cancelled self clean.  Went through self cleaning the following morning.  Now the slider-latch will not slide to the left, hence I cannot open oven door.  Its been cool for 24 hours, and I also turned off power at breaker for about 10 minutes to reset everything.  No use.

Today I lifted the cooktop and the panel under the cooktop.  There is a bar which runs from the front of the oven to the back, and connects to the latch assembly.  There is an electronic switch which is holding the bar in place with a metal tab-hence hindering the latch from being slid from right to left.  I can lift up on the metal tab with my finger, which allows me to slide the oven door latch from right to left.  But when I hold the metal tab up there is a buzzing noise- cannot tell where it is coming from, but sounds like perhaps an energized solenoid?  Once I slide the latch back from left to right (i.e. locking), the buzzing goes away; but now I'm back where I started-with a locked door that will not unlock.

Any advise?

Additional Questions:

1) The lock mechanism is obvoiusly temperature controlled.  Perhaps bad temp sensor someplace indicating the oven is still hot? 

2) Is this temp sensor the same as the thermostat?

3) On these old units, is the SELF-CLEAN mode timer controlled?  If so, I may be in trouble because I'm not even sure if the clock or timers work. (I've manually forwarded the clock about 12 hours, hoping this would release something, but no go).

4) Is there some kind of self-clean solenoid?  If so, what is it actually doing?

 

Thansk!

 

 

 

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 Posted: Fri Feb 9th, 2007 02:05 am
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WannaAppliance
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Anyone?

 

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 Posted: Fri Feb 9th, 2007 03:56 am
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Scottthewolf

 

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Nobody is replying to your post because you did not provide a model number.



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 Posted: Fri Feb 9th, 2007 04:04 am
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WannaAppliance
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???   Its in the subject line of the post.

GE Range Model JBP24GR2WH

 

 

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 Posted: Fri Feb 9th, 2007 11:11 am
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Budget Appliance Repair
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WannaAppliance wrote:
Hi;
Today I lifted the cooktop and the panel under the cooktop. There is a bar which runs from the front of the oven to the back, and connects to the latch assembly.


This is good, you are into the area to fix or find your problem. I just worked on one like this a few days ago, it seems the microswitch that is in the middle of the sliderbar maybe got out of adjustment causing the solenoid in back to not activate, then the customer trying to open the door bent the lock handle and the slider bar that runs from front to back.




Any advise?

Additional Questions:

1) The lock mechanism is obvoiusly temperature controlled. Perhaps bad temp sensor someplace indicating the oven is still hot?


could be but if the lock light was on during self-clean then went out after it cooled down then this is probably ok.

2) Is this temp sensor the same as the thermostat?
No, there is the main thermostat that is used when cooking, (that's the small capillary tube with the small tube going to the larger sensor tube), and the seperate temp sensor, which is the large fat tube sticking out in the left top corner, (this is the one that senses temp for self-clean lock).

3) On these old units, is the SELF-CLEAN mode timer controlled? If so, I may be in trouble because I'm not even sure if the clock or timers work. (I've manually forwarded the clock about 12 hours, hoping this would release something, but no go).
Yes, controled by setting stop time on clock to 2 to 3 hours past your start time so self-clean will shut off and be done in the amount of time you decide to run self-clean. The one I worked on had same problem, (clock didn't work, customer was totally aware of this and just sets an alarm clock and turns the stop timer back to the start time to stop when the correct amount of time has gone by.

4) Is there some kind of self-clean solenoid? If so, what is it actually doing?

Yes, the self-clean solenoid is the green coil in back just above the tab that you lifted to get the door to unlock.

This or the mircoswitch that is in the middle of the slide bar are the two most comman problems.

1) Solenoid could be bad, (open coil)
2) microswitch could be bad
3) microswitch could be out of adjustment so switch isn't getting activated to activate solenoid to release lock when the lock lever is moved.

With the door unlock, when you move the handle to lock, it should activate the microswitch with only a small amount of movement, then same when going from lock to unlock.

If you look at the slidebar that runs from front to back you will see two square notch openings cut in the bottom of the slidebar right near the microswitch contact arm. When in the full unlock or lock position the contact arm should be down in one of the two openings leaving the switch in an open state so solenoid is not activated. As soon as you move the lock handle you should see the contact arm ride up out of the notch and activate the switch in turn sending power to the solenoid which lifts the tab in back out of the way of the tabs that stick up on the slidebar to lock it.

If you have tried to hard to open the door when it was still locked or was having problems there is a good chance your have bent the slidebar that goes from front to back. If you take this bar out and lay it on a flat surface, it should be flat and level along it's whole length, towards the back end of the bar where it necks down, it can bend and it will look like it is suppose to be made this way but it's not. It has to be flat.



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 Posted: Fri Feb 9th, 2007 04:10 pm
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WannaAppliance
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Willie,

Thanks so much for the detailed response.  Once I understood the mechanism, it became clear to me... the switch WAS working fine,  and it WAS energizing the solenoid (which would lift the sliding bar).  As you indicated, the sliding bar WAS bent downward near the back.  A simple re-bending and now we are almost in business.  I noticed when the oven door was "unlocked" there was a slight buzz coming from the solenoid.  I noticed the trigger for the switch was not lying exactly in the square hole.  I looked for an adjustment screw, etc, but there was none.  So I basically bent the metal tab a bit forward, so now it sits "squarely in the square."  No more solenoid "partial" activation.  I hope that is what you meant about "switch adjustment."

Again, thanks for taking the time with the accurate description!

-Greg 

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 Posted: Sat Feb 10th, 2007 09:34 am
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Good going....... you got it, that was the exact adjustment I was trying to describe.



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 Posted: Sun Sep 12th, 2010 09:12 pm
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spatzenification
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This thread is great because it is the exact problem I'm having on model JMP26-0001WH. However, I am not as smart as WannaAppliance and have not been able to lift up to stove top. Can someone help me with a diagram from a manual or verbal instructions to be able to lift up the top? Basically, I have the front loose, having removed the 3 screws under the top in the front where the door closes, but the top is fixed at the back somewhere I can't see. This is a dropin that I haven't removed from the enclosure. Is there some trick to get it to release, or do I have to pull the whole unit out to do this?

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 Posted: Sun Sep 12th, 2010 10:16 pm
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appl.tech.29501
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may be faster to just pull the unit out so you can see everything clearly.



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 Posted: Sun Sep 12th, 2010 11:25 pm
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RegUS_PatOff
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spatzenification wrote: ... model JMP26-0001WH.

can you check that model number again

and should start a New Topic



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