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murphytoo
Apprentice Appliantologist
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Posted: Mon Jan 22nd, 2007 07:34 |
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First of all this is a great site........amazing amount of info.
F1 fault manifested after a broiler use. Now when there is power to the range and the ERC is in clock mode we get the F1. Current state is stove breaker "off" until needed and preheat to 100 degrees. (now range can be used without F1) When finished cooking....stove breaker back to "off". No other fault codes and consistant with each use.
OK; I went through all the steps. 1. Check the temp sensor. Result on three different days after cooling to room temp was 1088 to 1092 ohms. So....It's either the ERC or touchpad. 2. Unplugged the ribbon wire to the touchpad and powered up range. After 30 seconds F1. Problem solved......New ERC. Not so fast; installed a new ERC and confidently restored power to my range.........30 seconds.........F1 .
I double checked the temp sensor again and dead on 1088 ohms. I also pulled the back cover panel and looked at the wires all the way to the monster board on the back of the range.....seem OK. Is it possible that the temp sensor is junk even if the ohms are fine or is it something more sinister? Please help if anyone has any ideas.
Thanks.
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AccApp
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Posted: Mon Jan 22nd, 2007 07:58 |
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| I always like to test the temp sensor circuit the same way the ERC would, at the plug to the erc. Check there and tell us what you find.
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murphytoo
Apprentice Appliantologist
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Posted: Tue Jan 23rd, 2007 00:25 |
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| Thanks, I'll try that.....the only problem I may have is the temp sensor plugs into a lead that goes into a circuit board on the back of the range and from there carries to the ERC. I'll have to figure out the Temp sensor leads that go from the rear board to the ERC then I will test there. Thanks.
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Trying to help
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Posted: Tue Jan 23rd, 2007 00:51 |
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| On this unit an F1 is not sensor related. There are countless misprinted books, fault code guides and manuals out there. You can not unplug this touch-pad with the unit off because it remembers the fault code. You must hit cancel, then unplug it immediately after (have the touch-pad down and ready to access as quickly as possible). If it was the sensor, setting it to 100 degrees like you are doing would not fool it. Since you can bake, set the unit for 400 degree's and see at what temp does the cooling fan come on at.
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That Guy
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Posted: Tue Jan 23rd, 2007 02:47 |
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| I agree with "trying to help". Its more likely the touch pad. Did the ERC come with a new one or is that a separate part? I'll bet the vent for the oven is right below the touchpad. Those guys that design this stuff are geniuses aren't they?
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murphytoo
Apprentice Appliantologist
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Posted: Tue Jan 23rd, 2007 07:15 |
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You guys are all over it like a rat on a cheeto.
The oven vents are right under the touchpad.......I tried the "hot" cancel then quick disconnect of the ribbon wire with these results: After powering up the range the F1 appears in appox. 30 seconds every time. Hitting "cancel" clears fault. With ribbon disconnected fan starts in 2 seconds and F1 returns after 5 seconds and now won't clear when "cancel" is pressed. Calling for an oven pre-heat to 400 deg. results in a normal indicated temp rise to an indicated 400 deg. with the fan starting at 220 deg. A switch can be heard cycling under the glass cook-top and when this happens the display is brighter for a second. Prior to the pre-heat test I disconnected the the orange and blue wire groups and systematically ohm tested the pins to try and get the 1090 ohm reading from the temp sensor at the ERC. No luck. The oven is holding 400 deg. for the last 25 minutes, with all other functions normal. Thanks for the responses I hope this info provides a clue.
PS: Apparently Grasshoppers should NOT think that they can reassemble a hot control panel without doing some welding on the side!
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murphytoo
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Posted: Tue Jan 23rd, 2007 07:16 |
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PSS: ERC and touchpad are seperate parts.
Also, when the range is at temperature and you hit the "cancel" button to discontinue baking and cool down, in 15 to 20 seconds the F1 returns. I have been resetting the temp to 100 and selecting "bake" to allow the fan to continue durring the coolong cycle. (this method seems to trick the F1 fault; is this circumventing the temp. sensor ECR conflict or still indicate a touchpad problem?) Once the oven reaches 100 then I trip the breaker.
Last edited on Tue Jan 23rd, 2007 08:34 by murphytoo
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Trying to help
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Posted: Tue Jan 23rd, 2007 14:37 |
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OK, your cooling fan should not come on in bake till temps over 500 degrees. So we know the large board on the back of your unit is bad. The cooling fan coming on after you removed the TP ribbon is normal, there is an internal trace in the TP that keeps it off when the TP is inserted. The service manual for this unit states F1 is a PRB senses relay energized in time of day mode. For solution, it states to check the J2 harness for nicks, cuts or loose connections. If none found, replace the PRB. All common sense tells you it is the Touch Pad, half the literature does as well. The one thing we know is your PRB or Power Relay board is bad by the early cooling fan. Since we know it is bad already, and the service manual supports the PRB as well, I would replace your PRB and go from there. As I said earlier, half the publications of fault codes for this style unit are wrong. The one thing we do know is the PRB is bad by the early fan. The part link is below for the PRB.
http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=154&N=400658
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edwardh1
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Posted: Tue Jan 23rd, 2007 15:35 |
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So what was wrong with mechanical controls?
Why did "we" GO TO ELECTRONIC?
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Trying to help
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Posted: Tue Jan 23rd, 2007 20:26 |
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Because they're pretty!!! 
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murphytoo
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Posted: Wed Jan 24th, 2007 06:17 |
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| Thanks for the help! I ordered the PRB from the link you supplied and paid for 2 day shipping..........I'll let you know how it goes. Thanks again.
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Trying to help
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Posted: Wed Jan 24th, 2007 14:20 |
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| Make sure you install the shield that comes with the new part. It is designed to protect the board!
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murphytoo
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Posted: Tue Jan 30th, 2007 07:46 |
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| Well the PRB came in the mail and I carefully marked the old board with the wire colors to duplicate onto the new board and installed the heat........(I mean "moisture") shield, then waited nervously for about an hour...............F1 GONE! Thanks very much for the help! It's a pricey part but given the cost of a new range a good deal. I'm off to contribute to the beer fund!! You guys really have a quality site here........No offense but I hope I don't have to check in for a while. I think this is where I say DOMO (or something like that).......out.
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Trying to help
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Posted: Fri Feb 2nd, 2007 20:56 |
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 We da man!!
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