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1970s era Westinghouse stove Model KF340MXWZ  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Sat Oct 21st, 2006 02:57 pm
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georgia55
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Hi. We have a 1970s era (avocado green!) Westinghouse stove Model # KF340MXWZ. For a couple of years, the thermostat on the oven, on bake, has been funky - cooking around 50 degrees higher than the setting. Last week, it seems to have died - won't go higher than about 175, no matter the setting. But the broiler works just fine.

Called a repair guy who was none too anxious to come out here in the country to check it out. But he said that since the broiler is working fine, he thought it might be some sort of wiring problem (???????). We just replaced the oven element about a year ago, so it isn't that...

What do ya'll think?

Secondly, if we bought a thermostat somewhere, where would we find instructions on how to replace it? :shock:

thanks,
-georgia55

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 Posted: Sun Oct 22nd, 2006 12:50 am
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donn
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the thermostat you may need is part number q134672 -- my source indicates it is no long available:X is the oven cycle light on when thermostat is set? does the bake element heat at all?



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 Posted: Mon Oct 23rd, 2006 12:13 am
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Keinokuorma
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georgia55 wrote: Secondly, if we bought a thermostat somewhere, where would we find instructions on how to replace it?


If it is a capillary thermostat, which I think it is... if you can find a new one for the same temp range, with matching mounting, and which fits your adjust knob... no big deal. Check carefully how the old capillary is installed, install the new one the same way, and you should be fine. Be careful not to pinch or sharply bend the capillary coil.
Often these have just an on-off function, two electrical connections... if the old one is different by this, you may need to splice the wires, or mount some Abiko connectors on the old wires. If the new one has a swap function of 3 connectors, use the "N/C" pair, that will open up when the correct temp is reached.

But as you said, it used to cook 50 degrees higher than the setting, then now it won't heat up from 175... the element might be busted. Ohm it out, do the math... Divide 57600 with the resistance, and you'll get the wattage it will produce at room temperature assuming that you have 240V at the outlet between L1 and L2... Verify that too. If you have 208V system, use 43264 instead of 57600. Compare to the nominal wattage promised for the element. If your calculation produces a result much lower, there you go. Sometimes this "lazy element" problem strikes cooktops, dishwashers, laundry washers etc.

Even if the element is busted, it can originate from a bad thermostat.

Last edited on Mon Oct 23rd, 2006 12:34 am by Keinokuorma



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 Posted: Tue Oct 24th, 2006 12:13 pm
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georgia55
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Thanks for the info. I will print this out and give it to my sweetie who is in charge of ohms and things. (It's a division of labor thing - I personally am in charge of Ahhs and the like!)

-georgia

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 Posted: Tue Oct 24th, 2006 12:38 pm
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Keinokuorma
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BTW, if getting a new element, make sure it is intended for the voltage you have... if the system is split-phase, 2x120V = nominally 240V between the live wires for the elements (verify by measuring to be sure) you should get an element intended for that voltage.

If you have 2x120V off a 3 phase system (nominally 208V between live wires) then you can technically use an element for either voltage, but the 240V element will produce 25% less heat.

If you use a 208V element in the 240V system, it will produce 33% more heat than intended, which can make it first cook at high temp and then eventually turn lazy...

Carefully check out everything on the way.

RCC carries only one element for that model, I bet it is the 240V one, because that is the most common system in domestic installations anyway. Find it here. 

As it comes to oven thermostats, here's a list of models that RCC lists for Westinghouse in general... Most of them aren't probably exclusive to Westinghouse, but will fit multiple models and brands. Look if you find anything familiar in the pictures.

http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=154&N=1109

http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=154&N=622575

http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=154&N=639870

http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=154&N=164

http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=154&N=614149

http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=154&N=698617

http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=154&N=98

http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=154&N=12869

http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=154&N=496496

http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=154&N=2215

http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=154&N=616785

http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=154&N=617391

RCC will refund most returned parts (except shipping costs), even electrical parts.. and I remember reading that they even accept some parts that were already tried.

Last edited on Tue Oct 24th, 2006 01:12 pm by Keinokuorma



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 Posted: Tue Oct 24th, 2006 11:07 pm
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donn
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WHY fudge in a hundred dollar part into 10 dollar range?:huh: 



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 Posted: Tue Oct 24th, 2006 11:36 pm
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Keinokuorma
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That I consider the customer's call to judge...  but perhaps these people value their range, for the fun(k) of it or otherwise... ;)

And then, it probably has no mutha-luvin scientific control unit. :D

But true, ranges from that era aren't too expensive... simple repair can cost a couple similar units in working order. :yikes:

If it really is necessary to get that one phuncktional again, maybe it is a good idea to shop for another one secondhand?



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