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ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Kitchen Appliance Repair Forum > Maytag Model # MSD2754FRW Serial # 11149710Y13 |
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ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Kitchen Appliance Repair Forum > Maytag Model # MSD2754FRW Serial # 11149710Y13 |
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| Maytag Model # MSD2754FRW Serial # 11149710Y13 | Rate Topic |
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| Posted: Fri Sep 29th, 2006 03:07 am |
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1st Post |
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LJWalker Grasshopper
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My Mom's Maytag refrigerator just will not behave  . She had some relatives (outlaws) spending last weekend with her. In the middle out the night, one of the visiting children woke her up to tell her that her kitchen was flooded. She got out of bed and followed the child back to the kitchen. The entire floor was covered with water. She thought it might have been from the dishwasher but the child told her it came from here (pointing to the water dispenser on the refrigerator door). She said that there was no water coming from the dispenser at that moment, but she could see where it had tracked down the door. Now, the water dispenser will not deliver water when WATER is selected and the dispenser button is pushed. The SELECTOR touch control buttons (to choose cube or crushed ice or water) seem to function, as the indicator lights on those icons light up when a selection is made. When you select either ice option and press the dispenser button, the correct type of ice is delivered. When you select WATER, you get nothing. What tests do I need to do to identify the culprit?
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| Posted: Fri Sep 29th, 2006 12:33 pm |
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2nd Post |
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Trying to help Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology 
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Your micro switch behind your rubber pad is the problem for the flooding. When you take it apart you will see corrosion on it. Do you have a meter so we can ohm out your water-valve coil that operates your water through the door feature as well as checking for voltage at the valve from the board? Could be a bad valve or board. Depending on how much water came out it could very well be the valve if it was energized for a long time. These coils are the ones with Black and White Blue wires on them. * If you ohm these coils, I would expect the reading to be 130-200 ohms. If they are open, thats your problem. * If someone calls for water while you do a voltage test at the coils. A reading of 120VAC would indicate board good and the coils bad again. No voltage, we have to find out why. Chances are bad board. Loose connections, etc could play a role but it would be too much of a coincidence seeing how you flooded a day ago.
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| Posted: Fri Sep 29th, 2006 06:55 pm |
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3rd Post |
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology 
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Part link for limit switch: http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=154&N=844414
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| Posted: Fri Sep 29th, 2006 07:18 pm |
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4th Post |
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LJWalker Grasshopper
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I will be testing per instructions from "Trying To Help" late this evening. Can you give a "tutorial" on accessing the switch for inspection before I attempt to extricate it? I just need to know how the switch and/or cover panels fasten in place. I don't want to do more harm than good to her refrigerator. I already know how to access the water valve(s). By the way, (now she tells me) Mom made this remark this morning...... "The "push button" has hung up before and I had to "mash" it a couple more times to stop the ice from coming out." So, it is probably going to be that the water valve coil has failed due to excessive "hold in" time from the dispenser switch sticking when the little....uh, "child visitor", got a drink after everyone went to bed. I will be replacing the dispenser switch for certain (based on her latest bit of information).
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| Posted: Fri Sep 29th, 2006 08:58 pm |
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5th Post |
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Trying to help Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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Do not use unit till repair completed. Leave on LOCK to prevent further damage. To access components: Pull out drip tray Take out two torx bits now visible Pull control toward you and slide panel up to disengage. ** Be careful, attached to panel is a ribbon connector attached to board. When panel is a inch or two away from unit, reach behind and disconnect it. Fountain bracket is now accessible. This is the part in the door. It is held in by 3 recessed torx bits. Remove them and pull assembly forward. It will come forward about 3-4 inches and then the quick disconnect for the wires can be removed to completely access it.
____________________ If we saved YOU Beer $$ today, please make a donation to our beer fund by clicking the link below to help keep this site going. I charge $135.95 PLUS PARTS to do this repair!$! http://fixitnow.com/beerfund.htm |
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| Posted: Fri Sep 29th, 2006 09:31 pm |
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6th Post |
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LJWalker Grasshopper
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Thanks TTH. I'll be departing for Mom's shortly. I'll post data of my test(s) later in the weekend.
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| Posted: Sat Sep 30th, 2006 10:09 pm |
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7th Post |
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LJWalker Grasshopper
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OK! Test across terminals of fountain water valve with VOM shows infinite resistance . The coil is open. I will replace the valve assembly and the dispenser switch. Thanks and I will post results of repairs later.
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| Posted: Sat Oct 7th, 2006 06:40 pm |
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8th Post |
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LJWalker Grasshopper
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 Thanks SAM & thanks TTH. I just got back from changing out the water valve and the fountain limit switch. Everything is working correctly once again. Mom is so happy now. Larry
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| Posted: Sat Oct 7th, 2006 06:40 pm |
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9th Post |
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LJWalker Grasshopper
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Thanks SAM & thanks TTH. I just got back from changing out the water valve and the fountain limit switch. Everything is working correctly once again. Mom is so happy now. Larry
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